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No I think I would still aim around 58 on a solid roller. The displacement will like that. Really depends on how high you plan to rev. If you still have the option and the fuel, a tad more compression would really fit the build. Equivalent to US 93 octane would work fine.
If you pull IVC too far back, with the motor your size the power curve will nose over hard. Now if your plan is to peak around 6300 and never rev much past that, then less cam will be fine. Just need to know how you plan to drive it as much as anything.
I'll be running aus 98 which i think is your 93 equivalent. Im thinking of a 7200rpm rev limit. I try and drive this car everyday, ill city drive, i'll do 350km round trips highway driving once or twice a week, ill stick a trailer behind it occasionally, on a friday night its a few hrs of roll racing, once a week itll do a hard 20minute hill climb, then 8 track days with 4x 20minute sessions, 1x1000m sprints, 2x bathurst conrod straight sprints (if youve ever seen the bathurst race track its the long straight, roughly 1400m straight but thenanother 1400m to finish), 2x bathurst mountain straight sprints, a yr. For tracks days and sprints i wont drop below 3000rpm
Ill be changing valve springs a lot i think
Oh and once a yr ill do a 3600km round trip highway driving with a 2hr 180kmh run both ways (70L of fuel lasts me 2 hrs)
Whats the safe max compression from us 93 fuel? I think id be able to get 12.5:1 going to a.031 head gasket but id have to check ptv 1st . I dont want to run E85
In saying that i"ll have a 7200rpm rev limit will really depend on where the intake runs out of puff. It seems on what dyno charts ive seen running that intake itll be somewhere around 6400rpm to 6700rpm
12.3 is safe. Careful on the HG. Quench should be .035-.040. With your goals keep the 255 cam for sure. You will be fine on PTV. Pistons likely have YUGE reliefs in them.
Edit - that larger motor will want to pull that peak rpm down. Big reason why it makes sense to keep later IVC and increase compression be going to an earlier IVC which would further reduce peak hp rpm
12.3 is safe. Careful on the HG. Quench should be .035-.040. With your goals keep the 255 cam for sure. You will be fine on PTV. Pistons likely have YUGE reliefs in them.
Edit - that larger motor will want to pull that peak rpm down. Big reason why it makes sense to keep later IVC and increase compression be going to an earlier IVC which would further reduce peak hp rpm
Thanx, I will see what size head gaskets i have now ,i think ..051 ,if so ill swap to .041. That will get me to 12.2:1.
I will run up the cam thats in it now for a base, then swap to the 255/269 and run it up.
Did you have any problems with the Msd intake bolts coming loose?
I think the engine builders here in Australia need to get online and see what people are doing to engines. They have to keep up to date,there maybe only small changes happening but when your trying to build a high hp engine,its seems you have to know it all yourself.
I'll be buying hpt this week,learn myself
No issue. But the tightening procedure, you end up going over the tightening sequence 11,000,000 times until you finally do not have bolts coming loose while others are tightened.
No kinks,
sorry to hear of your bad luck with the engines and tuners. I think tuning it yourself is a good idea. It sucks when someone else causes you money with a bad tune. Best of luck!
Jim
Thanx Jim......It certainly does suck, especially when your only getting a touch up in the tune and their supposed to be one of the best in the business and the charge you $1300 and it leads to a rebuild.
Few pics of the wet sleeved 454 ls2 block that ill assemble myself. This will be the 1st time ive assembled so ill take my time and make sure its done rite
You can see why the block twist with all the material thats taken out. But in my boat with motor plates front,middle and back, and also ill half fill it, that should stop the twist
Another reason why I prefer the Darton dry sleeves over the MID setup. ProLine which is 20 minutes from me and has done some work for me, won’t touch a MID block. They say they are too inconsistent because the cylinders move around too much.
Another reason why I prefer the Darton dry sleeves over the MID setup. ProLine which is 20 minutes from me and has done some work for me, won’t touch a MID block. They say they are too inconsistent because the cylinders move around too much.
I received a little misinformation ,more likely not enough information from one of the designers of the mid sleeves. Was told they would work in my block. After 1st rebuild i talked to him again and was told to use motor plates which i cant do in my car, and also told "we really only use them if you want to save the block" whatever that means WTF.
With a half fill and motor plates it will hold together well, could even fill up to half way on coolant passages, in the boat it will be constantly supplied cold water , so may work.
I would never recommend a mid sleeve
I pulled the engine for refresh march 2018, after a very long way it hits the chassis dyno on wednesday, getting excited. Im gunna leave the longest burnout the 1st set of traffic lights i come across. haha then straight to the tyre shop where i have a set of michelin pilot sport cup 2's waiting.
Any predictions of what power it'll make?
My goal has been 660rwhp, think itll be close.
Heres a link to quick video of 1st start up, couldnt start tuning because last tuner locked the ecu. Ill take ecu to him tomorrow so he can unlock it for me
09-23-2019, 07:55 AM
