bortous

With those cam specs is that with the lass subtracted?

Mickyinks

@50 mate would be round 253/259 hyd

bortous

I thought would be smaller seeing as though you are running a solid roller and not a low lash version correct?
How much hot lash does the crow solid run?

Mickyinks

.016 hot..... it would be close minus 6

bortous

Oh ok.
I was under the impression that the more hot lash you got the more duration you lose at 50?
My low lash solid from cam motion also loses 6 degrees of duration.
This is at .006 hot lash.
So you got nearly three times hot lash.
Is the valvetrain kind of noisy?

Mickyinks

You may be rite , i have always been under the impression it loses 6-8 , someone may know how it works out
Valvetrain is noisy, nothing ridiculous , at low revs it can be heard but after 2000rpm it sings

How does the LLSR work.. I grow by.010 so how u set cold lash

bortous

A LLSR on an aluminium engine works by setting the lash at 0.00 cold.
It then expands to .010 once warm.
On an iron block with a LLSR I think you set the lash at .003 cold because iron doesn't expand as much as aluminium once warm.
I realised I made a mistake with the hot lash.
It is .010 not .006 for the low lash.
I am guessing if you lose 6 degrees of duration at .010 lash you have 60% more hot lash so you would lose about 9 degrees of duration on your solid roller.
9.6 to be exact according to my calculator.
So you are at 250/256 once warm.

Mickyinks

mayb lol

bortous

Going from 36 degrees of overlap when cold to 27 degrees when warm is a good bit smoother too.

Your valve events are pretty good also when warm. Great balance.
IVC 55
EVO 64
IV0 15
EVC 12

Mickyinks

I dont really know how it all works when cold or hot.. Ill have to read up on tht

bortous

I have an idea but if it's wrong someone can correct it.

bortous

Hey man, do you find since going to the iron block vs the aluminium have you noticed that there is more heat being produced?
Is you cooling system all good?

Mickyinks

Theres no difference to the cooling system than when i had aluminium block. I have an aussie dessert cooler radiator and run water and penrite racing coolant (water wetter) in it.
a B&M engine oil cooler with fan. an evans water pump, 160tstat, 36psi radiator cap, ceramic coated headers and cat back.
The OEM engine ran at 110c, lsx before upgrade ran 102c up to 125c where it stayed when into it, lsx now 108c up to 130c when going at it but no higher even after 20mins of hill climb.
I could keep oil temps down if i went with a $1100 PWR oil cooler , will see how it goes on a 30min track session. All temps i speak of are oil temps. Water temp stays pegged on gauge but run 94c-98c

bortous

Ok thanks for that.
Have you also noticed the extra weight on the front?
Have you noticed a decrease in handling?
More understeer?

Mickyinks

iron block is 42kg heavier than aluminium block, i didnt notice a huge difference due to having more power, i run coilovers so handling is great.
In saying all this, dont be a tight ***, get the aluminium block...

bortous

Haha why would you recommend that instead of the iron?

Mickyinks

weight, i would have went that way if i had the knowledge i have now....you may not notice much difference but its still weight

bortous

Only 42kg?
I thought it was more like 55kg.
I have relocated my battery to the boot and me engine mounts are about 2 kg lighter than stock.
So there is a front end weight saving of about 22kg.
Add in the iron block, subtract the weight and that equals 32-33kg of extra front end weight.
From my research the alumunium blocks are about a few k more expensive.

Mickyinks

Im pretty sure its 42kg.. If you went a supercharger youd get that weight... yeah u can lose some weight on nose but its still weight u have to pull. easy to tune suspension for the extra weight over the nose

bortous

Hey Mick did you end up getting a dyno sheet for your dyno pull on e85?
If so can you post please.