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Hi guys, just joined up, looking for info. I'm in NW PA , recently retired, planning a mild drag car build. Bought a '84 IROC Z28 already built, has been raced before.
I was planning to just go with a 350, but am intrigued by the LS motors due to starting out with more hp.
My main issue is the wiring. If I obtain a MSD LS series box, like the #6014, does it control all engine functions so I wouldn't need oem controls at all? Just plug and play?
I plan to run a powerglide so I know I need the right flexplate and adapter.
Thanks.
Costs 2-4x as much to get the power equivalent with the gen1 SBC over a JY LS. Zero reason not to make the switch. Also you don’t need adapters or anything for an LS. The glide will bolt right up. Get a TH spline input shaft for the glide and order your converter from PTC with the correct spacing and it will all bolt right up to the factory flywheel. (though u want the SFI flywheel).
Depending on the budget/ET goals. Id look at power adders as well and just run factory long blocks right out of the yard with untouched heads. A good cam and springs will go a LONG way.
The MSD box only controls the ignition, not worth the asking price IMO. I'd look into keeping fuel injection and buying a plug and play ECU. They basically tune themselves these days. Will be MUCH easier to dial in with EFI and datalogging. Can use the factory intake and injectors as well. Lighter weight, better design, and basically free with the JY motor.
The new jackpot kit is $800 and comes with dual WB02 sensors. Will control your ign, fuel, and much more. With the included display you also don't need to buy gauges or even a laptop.
Thank you. I already have a th400 input on the 'glide with a 4k stall converter, just need the flex plate.
Would like to go flex fuel and run E85.
Probably bolt it in as is and make some shakedown runs before modding it.
Don't need trans controls with a 'glide, looking for just engine controls.
Planning on a low 12's car for now and see where it goes.
Cam/header only deal on a 6.0 would do that easy, but I'd look for alum 5.3's personally. Drops about 100lbs off the nose and can usually pick them up for around $500-900 complete. Where a healthy JY 6.0 around here will cost up to 2k+ complete. Can easily spray a 50-200 shot on a bone stock 2005+ 5.3. Enough for a 12-9 second car or anything in between.
The $800 jackpot ECU's don't' control trans. But they can control things like fans, nitrous, ignition, boost control. Then monitor all your sensors and data log. The MSD won’t do that and you’d need separate modules for it all which add up down the road. Dual WB02 kit alone costs about $300, and that comes with the Aces $800 kit. So you are paying $500ish for a full plug and play harness, and ECU.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Jul 2, 2024 at 11:21 AM.
I see a couple people mentioned a JY motor, is that junkyard or is there a JY prefix? Local guy has a LY5 for sale.
Also, I see motors with 150k plus, would that be too many miles to use without rebuild?
As in “Junk Yard” motor. Many LS motors are pulled for top end noise, often the bottom ends are still in great shape. You want a 2005+ if you can get it, they have stronger rods and floating pistons. often come with "the good" heads too.
The LY5 is a great engine that came with the good heads. You can likely sell the heads alone for $400+. I routinely pick up those motors for $500 or less and sell the 243/799 heads for $400. Then pick up a $100 set of small valve heads (706’s that no one wants). A lot of times you can actually make money by simply selling the heads and accessories.
As in “Junk Yard” motor. Many LS motors are pulled for top end noise, often the bottom ends are still in great shape. You want a 2005+ if you can get it, they have stronger rods and floating pistons. often come with "the good" heads too.
The LY5 is a great engine that came with the good heads. You can likely sell the heads alone for $400+. I routinely pick up those motors for $500 or less and sell the 243/799 heads for $400. Then pick up a $100 set of small valve heads (706’s that no one wants). A lot of times you can actually make money by simply selling the heads and accessories.
Thank you a bunch. Good info.
Unfortunately, I discovered a big problem with the "rearend is good to go" 10 bolt diff in the car. Several teeth missing on the ring gear. DAMN those who lie to sell something. No fluid, obviously pulled it to see and put the cover back on.
I did pick up a narrowed 12 bolt cheap, (spool, 4.56) mostly for the torque arms and coilovers that came with it, but my car isn't set up for a narrowed rear, and I'm not planning to go with big tires anyway. Rather than putting money into a weak 10 bolt I'm either going to swap in a 9", find a correct length 12 bolt housing or replace the tubes with the correct ones. Just researching my options at this time.
Update. I am solving the rear end issue for less than I thought, going 9" Ford.
I was given a 350 which needs freshened, but of course I need to go with cam, pistons and rods, to get up to decent hp, so I'll be into a couple grand with that....
OR, I found a 2007 Impala SS motor (all aluminum) for a real good price, no brainer, right?
This is a fwd motor, that's not an issue right?
Is the 2007 an LS4 and does that make it a 4th gen?
Is the afm an issue, should I replace the cam/lifters to delete it?
I think it is flex fuel, and I want to run E85.
Any other advice?
Thanks again, you guys have been great.
Pretty sure the impala is FWD. I wouldn't want to mess with that. GEN1 SBC isn't worth it, as you can buy 3 JY 5.3s for the cost of making that GEN1 SBC perform like a stock 5.3. If u arent looking for over 600crank HP just grab any cheap RWD 5.3. I just build one for peanuts to run on E85. It's 13.4:1 compression and pretty dang fun for a $500 motor. Drives like a kitten and has plenty of grunt down low with all that compression. I just milled the crap out of the cheap $100 small valve heads and fly cut the factory pistons with a DIY tool.
Yes, the Impala is fwd. I assumed the actual motor was the same, and headers would be used.
Believe there are several things that must be done to switch it from FWD to RWD. But I haven't done it personally. Might want to research that a bit before buying. I believe trans bolt pattern is different and there is no starter mounting provision on the block… as well as a few other things. Its not an easy rwd swap. Not worth the time and effort when there are so many RWD versions ready to go.
Agree with everything Forcefed86 said...hang in there for the LS search. I feel as though your afraid of leaving that old SBC 350. Don't be, you'll have twice the money in that old 350 and make half the power of a JY 5.3-6.0 LS.
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New, old guy. 
