Ls3 c6 build questions
Originally Posted by shelbysguns
Can you put heads on in the car with studs? Cant on my 5.4. Agreed on their other benefits.
Ill wait for more opinions on the hg then.
Yeah ysi or novi would be the ideal. Pd would be fun but too limited.
Im pretty good at buying once. Well see.
Ill wait for more opinions on the hg then.
Yeah ysi or novi would be the ideal. Pd would be fun but too limited.
Im pretty good at buying once. Well see.
I'm partial to centris. I like my pd blower on my truck but you'd need a 2650 to really have some fun lol.
Good luck. It will be a fun build for sure. Lazer has had some fun with his. I know with bolt ons, rockers and a tiny clutch that thing was a rocket. I couldn't imagine with some bolt ons and 8psi
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Jefferson City, MO
Any insight from yall on head studs/head gasket choices?
Also another academic question. I know compromise choices usually suck at both but would it be possible to get an na cam that does well with a centri? The ls2 c6 I had claimed to have a "blower cam" and it ran okay. I understand pure na performance might fall off.
Also another academic question. I know compromise choices usually suck at both but would it be possible to get an na cam that does well with a centri? The ls2 c6 I had claimed to have a "blower cam" and it ran okay. I understand pure na performance might fall off.
If you're going boosted at some point just go to ARP studs now. Otherwise stock is fine. There were tests done showing that stock bolts are better than off brand chinese studs so go all or nothing. Get a traditional split cam with low overlap for N/A and it'll work fine with a centrifugal blower.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Jefferson City, MO
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Jefferson City, MO
If you're going boosted at some point just go to ARP studs now. Otherwise stock is fine. There were tests done showing that stock bolts are better than off brand chinese studs so go all or nothing. Get a traditional split cam with low overlap for N/A and it'll work fine with a centrifugal blower.
Any more input on the cam possibilities? @Darth V8r
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Verdad Gallardo Very honestly, if you're looking to go off the shelf, my first choice for your car (really any street LS3 that isn't expecting to see serious track time) is the Titan3 LS3 at 227/237-113+3.5. i think it will chop hard enough to satisfy your inner mullet and Night Ranger T shirt rocker. And drive nice enough to not make you hate the car.
The Titan King will chop harder, but will want other mods to respond well. Gear for one, looser stall for another. You'd be dumping a lot of unplanned money into making a $450 part work right.
If boost is something you'd be thinking down the road, the Titan 3 is also a decent boost cam. We could talk about something custom, but in the end, we'd be splitting hairs. But for example, you could split the difference between the two cams and get a 230/240-113+3, which would put overlap at 9 degrees vs 6 or 13. But I tend to find that I am never happy with a compromise solution. They're like sporks. Don't really to the fork or spoon thing particularly well, but kind of does both OK.
Most of the time, a person says they want a street/strip car, they are actually happier with just an aggressive street car.
Best thing you can do is be brutally honest about how you plan to drive the car. I promise you, six degrees of overlap in a LS3 is going to have a noticeable idle, so don't go overboard just because you like a sound. But if you also say you really don't mind the car being a PITA, and you definitely want the bigger cam, then go for it. You're the one that ultimately needs to be happy with it. And no matter which you choose, people on this site will help you the best we can to get it to run good for you.
The Titan King will chop harder, but will want other mods to respond well. Gear for one, looser stall for another. You'd be dumping a lot of unplanned money into making a $450 part work right.
If boost is something you'd be thinking down the road, the Titan 3 is also a decent boost cam. We could talk about something custom, but in the end, we'd be splitting hairs. But for example, you could split the difference between the two cams and get a 230/240-113+3, which would put overlap at 9 degrees vs 6 or 13. But I tend to find that I am never happy with a compromise solution. They're like sporks. Don't really to the fork or spoon thing particularly well, but kind of does both OK.
Most of the time, a person says they want a street/strip car, they are actually happier with just an aggressive street car.
Best thing you can do is be brutally honest about how you plan to drive the car. I promise you, six degrees of overlap in a LS3 is going to have a noticeable idle, so don't go overboard just because you like a sound. But if you also say you really don't mind the car being a PITA, and you definitely want the bigger cam, then go for it. You're the one that ultimately needs to be happy with it. And no matter which you choose, people on this site will help you the best we can to get it to run good for you.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Jefferson City, MO
Very honestly, if you're looking to go off the shelf, my first choice for your car (really any street LS3 that isn't expecting to see serious track time) is the Titan3 LS3 at 227/237-113+3.5. i think it will chop hard enough to satisfy your inner mullet and Night Ranger T shirt rocker. And drive nice enough to not make you hate the car.
The Titan King will chop harder, but will want other mods to respond well. Gear for one, looser stall for another. You'd be dumping a lot of unplanned money into making a $450 part work right.
If boost is something you'd be thinking down the road, the Titan 3 is also a decent boost cam. We could talk about something custom, but in the end, we'd be splitting hairs. But for example, you could split the difference between the two cams and get a 230/240-113+3, which would put overlap at 9 degrees vs 6 or 13. But I tend to find that I am never happy with a compromise solution. They're like sporks. Don't really to the fork or spoon thing particularly well, but kind of does both OK.
Most of the time, a person says they want a street/strip car, they are actually happier with just an aggressive street car.
Best thing you can do is be brutally honest about how you plan to drive the car. I promise you, six degrees of overlap in a LS3 is going to have a noticeable idle, so don't go overboard just because you like a sound. But if you also say you really don't mind the car being a PITA, and you definitely want the bigger cam, then go for it. You're the one that ultimately needs to be happy with it. And no matter which you choose, people on this site will help you the best we can to get it to run good for you.
The Titan King will chop harder, but will want other mods to respond well. Gear for one, looser stall for another. You'd be dumping a lot of unplanned money into making a $450 part work right.
If boost is something you'd be thinking down the road, the Titan 3 is also a decent boost cam. We could talk about something custom, but in the end, we'd be splitting hairs. But for example, you could split the difference between the two cams and get a 230/240-113+3, which would put overlap at 9 degrees vs 6 or 13. But I tend to find that I am never happy with a compromise solution. They're like sporks. Don't really to the fork or spoon thing particularly well, but kind of does both OK.
Most of the time, a person says they want a street/strip car, they are actually happier with just an aggressive street car.
Best thing you can do is be brutally honest about how you plan to drive the car. I promise you, six degrees of overlap in a LS3 is going to have a noticeable idle, so don't go overboard just because you like a sound. But if you also say you really don't mind the car being a PITA, and you definitely want the bigger cam, then go for it. You're the one that ultimately needs to be happy with it. And no matter which you choose, people on this site will help you the best we can to get it to run good for you.
Now to figure out ancillaries. Half *** tempted to buy hptuners to self tune. My former boss is a tuner whos willing to walk me through it. At least on the NA tunes. Have a dyno local I can rent also, the tuner who owns is just sort of iffy for me to tune my car.
HPTuners is a good move. you'll find as you drive the car you'll want to make little tweaks here and there. It will take you far longer to tune your car the first time. But after you get the hang of it, you'll do good.
Hptuners is good to buy even if you do not necessarily tune the entire car yourself. You can log it and see what's going on and people can help you through email. Darth did most of the tuning on my last NA build through email and logs. Lots of tuners even do it that way. They do not like to do it for boost though usually but Texas speed helped me with my first boosted build over email years ago. Then if you have a dyno you can rent time on local I feel that is even more of a reason to buy.
Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
HPTuners is a good move. you'll find as you drive the car you'll want to make little tweaks here and there. It will take you far longer to tune your car the first time. But after you get the hang of it, you'll do good.
LOL
Meant to say -- don't rent the dyno until after you have dialed the car in well on the street. Two reasons. It'll be loser overall, so it's less to deal with. And the practice will ensure you don't waste time you're paying for trying to figure out the paste-multiply or wideband inputs.
Meant to say -- don't rent the dyno until after you have dialed the car in well on the street. Two reasons. It'll be loser overall, so it's less to deal with. And the practice will ensure you don't waste time you're paying for trying to figure out the paste-multiply or wideband inputs.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Jefferson City, MO
I might just do this. I figure playing around n/a with just intake and headers is safe enough. Need to buy a wideband also correct?
You can tune on the street using your narrow bands, but you will eventually want the WB input. Most of the time I see people who go from narrow band to wide band wish they had jumped to WB sooner.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Jefferson City, MO
So play around with nb. While saving for wb. My tuner buddy said to go aem x series? I have had a bad experience with innovates in the past. Would have a wb before I tuned for the cam.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Jefferson City, MO
9 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 818
Likes: 215
From: VA
My experience is bolt ons you can doa fine job with NB and after that your just screwing yourself with out a WB. I am one of those guys Darth lol