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Ls3 c6 build questions

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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 09:47 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
When you say "not useable" you mean due to RPM? I was more interested in the H/C curve compared to the stock curve. Seems like it would still have picked up power and torque, but I haven't seen a dyno overlay.
Honestly it is all in my build thread dd. It made huge gains but nothing correlated to track gains. It was honestly upsetting to me lol i just know i can do more with less as far as cam goes. I ended up taking a solid combo and turning it into a wicked sounding high rpm beast that accelerated slower than my original set up.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 09:50 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta
Honestly it is all in my build thread dd. It made huge gains but nothing correlated to track gains. It was honestly upsetting to me lol i just know i can do more with less as far as cam goes. I ended up taking a solid combo and turning it into a wicked sounding high rpm beast that accelerated slower than my original set up.
No worries, was just looking for cliff notes or a dyno overlay. I'm sure you'll get it sorted. When you start making serious power stuff always takes longer to get sorted.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 10:01 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta
Read this Bortous. I have my build documented there.
https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...t-be-done.html
I read the thread.
I now understand how you got there.
I'm just used to these engines being in big heavy cars down here that's all.
I also see you had a mid runner fast and the IOD intake.
How do those two intakes compare in the low and mid range torque and power curve?
I would imagine the long runner fast would be the torquiest of the bunch?
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 10:01 AM
  #124  
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Still porting if you need it done.

That being said a ls3 c6 is probably nearly the easiest vehicle in the world to run 10s with bolt ons. I think it could even get it done w/o headers. Lazer coulda went faster with less gear or a taller tire with his bolt on set up.

Last edited by HioSSilver; Jan 6, 2020 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 11:28 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
That makes a lot of sense. Hadn't realized you were overseas, even though it's likely in the thread.
Yeah explains the weird reply timing and thread spamming huh?

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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 11:31 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Still porting if you need it done.

That being said a ls3 c6 is probably nearly the easiest vehicle in the world to run 10s with bolt ons. I think it could even get it done w/o headers. Lazer coulda went faster with less gear or a taller tire with his bolt on set up.
I had a friend message you. Wanted to go with you but with limited availability the quicker turn around from gpi with the exchange works better. Sorry man.

I know that but MO has lame tracks and bad air. Plenty of 11 and 12 second cars struggling to do a second off their usual time here some days. So well see.

So go with a 28inch tall radial? That was my plan. Probably a 17 if possible due to not wanting to change the spindle.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 11:58 AM
  #127  
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Depends on what gear your running for tire height.

Plenty of guys here struggle with good cars to. Really all it means is they did it wrong most of the time. So why go the same route?
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 12:01 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Depends on what gear your running for tire height.

Plenty of guys here struggle with good cars to. Really all it means is they did it wrong most of the time. So why go the same route?
Im trying not to.
​​​​​
Pretty sure the car has 2.54s. Which sounds super low but it has a 4.02 first gear so its really not all that bad. Willing to gear up some but the general consensus is if you go up some you screw yourself. 2.54s your generally pulling hard in 3rd at the lights.
3.54s pulling hard in 4th.

In between gears not so much.

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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 12:19 PM
  #129  
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Here's a great gear calc. You may have to enter your own values for the a6. I would probably gear it to use 4gears through the qtr if it can be done. Seems to be the trend these days. Reason being is then you could likely get by with a tighter converter or maybe no converter at all.

A stock 5br0 uses 7 gears.

http://www.pszweb.com/car/gears.htm
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 12:20 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Here's a great gear calc. You may have to enter your own values for the a6. I would probably gear it to use 4gears through the qtr if it can be done. Seems to be the trend these days. Reason being is then you could likely get by with a tighter converter or maybe no converter at all.

A stock 5br0 uses 7 gears.

http://www.pszweb.com/car/gears.htm
Youd be the first to suggest no converter. Interesting. I assume you mean the a10 5.bro not the a8.

Ill run it a few times and see.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 12:27 PM
  #131  
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2.54s and 26ish inch tires puts me at low 140s nearing 7k.

3.54s and 28inch tire does the same but in 4th instead of 3rd. Might go that way in the future but not too worried if I dont.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 12:56 PM
  #132  
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Well, you WILL still use converter. Just a stock one....
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 01:05 PM
  #133  
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One of main advantages of a torque converter is torque multiplication and the fact that the auto will soak up a cam, making it more tolerable to drive.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 02:39 PM
  #134  
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yea.....all that extra power is why autos dyno so much higher. Especially with big converters


Originally Posted by shelbysguns
Youd be the first to suggest no converter. Interesting. I assume you mean the a10 5.bro not the a8.

Ill run it a few times and see.
A6 vs a10 5br0 but yea.

Ive never been a big converter fan or auto fan in general. I know they've came a long way since when i messed with them but i just never liked the way a loose converter felt. These days they can lock up in about all the gears so maybe they ain't to bad.

Now if you don't get to loose of one and pay more attention to diameter, weight and efficiency then i could get behind it.

Originally Posted by shelbysguns
2.54s and 26ish inch tires puts me at low 140s nearing 7k.

3.54s and 28inch tire does the same but in 4th instead of 3rd. Might go that way in the future but not too worried if I dont.
The 3.54? ......is 3.42 what you meant? I'd plan on using 4 gears in it through the qtr how ever that worked out.

Originally Posted by G Atsma
Well, you WILL still use converter. Just a stock one....
lol

That's where doin a mod like a ewp, short belts and gear come into play. Lets the engine rev faster. Sometimes it just ends up as 2 ways to skin the cat.

Last edited by HioSSilver; Jan 6, 2020 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 05:34 PM
  #135  
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Here is comparison of bolt ons vrs heads cam
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 06:48 PM
  #136  
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Power moved to the right....just a hair

Last edited by ddnspider; Jan 8, 2020 at 06:45 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 12:51 AM
  #137  
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I'm going to have to agree with spider on this one. I'd just boost it now lol. Especially if that's your ultimate goal. Wouldn't need the intake then and only buy one cam in the long run. Gasket kits and fluids for swaps gets pricey quick too for every swap you. Cam only isn't bad though. Just a front cover gasket, water pump gaskets, coolant and oil. If you do a cam it's best to do the supporting mods like everyone has listed still though. You could upgrade head bolts if you do lifters. Then if you really want to get fancy pulley the blower down a bit and get a wastegate and limit your boost to 8 or 10psi or whatever u choose. I assume 8 would get you over 500, 10 got me 630 on a stock head intake compression LS1 on 93. But with the wastegate and the blower pullied down, it will build boost quick and not throw too much power through the engine up top. Wastegated centris are fun.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 12:56 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by 98_WS6_M6
I'm going to have to agree with spider on this one. I'd just boost it now lol. Especially if that's your ultimate goal. Wouldn't need the intake then and only buy one cam in the long run. Gasket kits and fluids for swaps gets pricey quick too for every swap you. Cam only isn't bad though. Just a front cover gasket, water pump gaskets, coolant and oil. If you do a cam it's best to do the supporting mods like everyone has listed still though. You could upgrade head bolts if you do lifters. Then if you really want to get fancy pulley the blower down a bit and get a wastegate and limit your boost to 8 or 10psi or whatever u choose. I assume 8 would get you over 500, 10 got me 630 on a stock head intake compression LS1 on 93. But with the wastegate and the blower pullied down, it will build boost quick and not throw too much power through the engine up top. Wastegated centris are fun.
Need to look into the prices of upgraded head bolts/studs.

Gpi intake snagged on facebook for $300 shipped (ported/rod modded) good score
​​​​​Ati balancer 8 rib for $250 also.

What head gasket should I be using? Stock ls3? Ls9? Something aftermarket?

A ysi with a&a bracket I think popped up on fb for 4k. Very tempting. Agreed on wastegated centris.

So far i havent bought anything that cant work for boost or na. There is a vararam for 200 on fb right now that Im debating.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 01:05 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by shelbysguns
Need to look into the prices of upgraded head bolts/studs.

Gpi intake snagged on facebook for $300 shipped (ported/rod modded) good score
​​​​​Ati balancer 8 rib for $250 also.

What head gasket should I be using? Stock ls3? Ls9? Something aftermarket?

A ysi with a&a bracket I think popped up on fb for 4k. Very tempting. Agreed on wastegated centris.

So far i havent bought anything that cant work for boost or na. There is a vararam for 200 on fb right now that Im debating.
Ws6store always has the best prices on arp studs and bolts if you go that route. I like studs just because it is easy to set the heads and gaskets etc but not necessary for low boost at all. Also you do not have to clean the bolt holes if you pull the heads again with studs. Just my opinion.

Awesome on intake. Good price.

I use cometic gaskets. Lots of guys swear by LS9. I bet stock would be fine for this setup even but I'm not the expert there.

4K with bracket is not bad at all. And ysi is a bad *** blower so you would be set for upgrades later if you wanted to.

For wastegates you could get one that is co2 capable and utilize that later with boost leash or a whole aftermarket efi. Whatever your preference is at that point. Just buy stuff once. I'm horrible at not doing this lol. With how cheap terminator is now I think we'll see a lot more cars with aftermarket efi.
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 01:08 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by 98_WS6_M6
Ws6store always has the best prices on arp studs and bolts if you go that route. I like studs just because it is easy to set the heads and gaskets etc but not necessary for low boost at all. Also you do not have to clean the bolt holes if you pull the heads again with studs. Just my opinion.

Awesome on intake. Good price.

I use cometic gaskets. Lots of guys swear by LS9. I bet stock would be fine for this setup even but I'm not the expert there.

4K with bracket is not bad at all. And ysi is a bad *** blower so you would be set for upgrades later if you wanted to.

For wastegates you could get one that is co2 capable and utilize that later with boost leash or a whole aftermarket efi. Whatever your preference is at that point. Just buy stuff once. I'm horrible at not doing this lol. With how cheap terminator is now I think we'll see a lot more cars with aftermarket efi.
Can you put heads on in the car with studs? Cant on my 5.4. Agreed on their other benefits.

Ill wait for more opinions on the hg then.

Yeah ysi or novi would be the ideal. Pd would be fun but too limited.

Im pretty good at buying once. Well see.
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