MMS 220 heads on 4.155" bore?
#21
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"Grease is the word...."
#23
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So.. let's say this happens. If my end-game is LS7 heads, Magnuson 2300, and Ethanol... what rod and crankshaft should I get? Will K1 H-Beam rods and crankshaft be strong enough, or would I need to step up to Callies Ultra H-Beam rods and Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft? I assume Wiseco -18cc 2618 Alloy pistons will be good?
#27
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Well if done correctly, the LS7 topend with the Magnuson could make 1000+ wheel. I wouldn’t skimp here on parts selection. It’s a lot more expensive to build it twice.
#29
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Molnar crank and rods. Most of the piston makers can get you a 1000 go capable piston
#30
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The Setup would be 800-900 ft. Lbs capable as well. For my liking I’d go with a top shelf crank/rod setup such as a Callies billet combo setup. Any forged or billet 2618 alloy piston is suitable along with a hand picked ring package.
#32
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Agreed with Spanks. But instead of an oil, I’d wipe a good high-temp petroleum based grease on the cylinder walls. Will cling better and stay longer. Wrapping a block with plastic will actually hold condensation in which promotes rust. You should bag it and not tie the end of the bag off, to let it breathe.
#34
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There are other billet cranks out there. I was just referencing a top shelf unit that would hold up to the abuse your considering. Going to be an expensive endeavor either direction you go.
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#36
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Indeed it’s quality. Tom worked for Oliver and then started K1 Technologies, which got bought by Wiseco, at which point he then started Molnar Technologies. He’s one of the smartest guys in the performance crank/rod industry.
#37
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Agreed with Spanks. But instead of an oil, I’d wipe a good high-temp petroleum based grease on the cylinder walls. Will cling better and stay longer. Wrapping a block with plastic will actually hold condensation in which promotes rust. You should bag it and not tie the end of the bag off, to let it breathe.
#38
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Welp... I had to get my roof replaced, so the bonus (if I get it) will be going to paying that off. I am most likely going to stick with the stock LS1 short block, and have Tony Mamo get me a cam that will match the MMS 220 heads and MMS LSXR intake.
If I can get 450RWHP and 415RWTQ through my Dana 60, I will be happy. This will be the setup:
-Stock LS1 shortblock
-Edelbrock 2pc water pump
-ATI harmonic balancer - no underdrive
-Johnson 2116LSR Lifters
-custom pushrods based on measurements
-MMS 220 heads, I was told they were hand finished, but that is not on the invoice, just e-mails.
-MMS ported LSXR 102
-MMS custom cam
-Nick Williams 102mm Intake
-LS7 MAF
-4" intake plumbing
-Kooks 1 7/8 headers
-2.5" true duals - dumped
-TDP Viper T56 (If I recall correctly, this was the max T56 that TDP did back then... same build as his 9 sec Camaro has/had)
-Diamond Stage 2 clutch
-Strange Dana60 with 4.10s
Hopefully, I can get the rest of the parts ordered by Oct, and get started by Nov.
If I can get 450RWHP and 415RWTQ through my Dana 60, I will be happy. This will be the setup:
-Stock LS1 shortblock
-Edelbrock 2pc water pump
-ATI harmonic balancer - no underdrive
-Johnson 2116LSR Lifters
-custom pushrods based on measurements
-MMS 220 heads, I was told they were hand finished, but that is not on the invoice, just e-mails.
-MMS ported LSXR 102
-MMS custom cam
-Nick Williams 102mm Intake
-LS7 MAF
-4" intake plumbing
-Kooks 1 7/8 headers
-2.5" true duals - dumped
-TDP Viper T56 (If I recall correctly, this was the max T56 that TDP did back then... same build as his 9 sec Camaro has/had)
-Diamond Stage 2 clutch
-Strange Dana60 with 4.10s
Hopefully, I can get the rest of the parts ordered by Oct, and get started by Nov.
#39
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