MMS 220 heads on 4.155" bore?
06-18-2020, 03:59 PM
#1
MMS 220 heads on 4.155" bore? I have been considering doing a 383 stroker on my LS1, but I am also considering taking a 5.3L block to R.E.D. and having them do a 4.155" bore resleeved block. I already have MMS 220 heads and an MMS ported LSXR 102 intake.
If I opted for a 4.155" bore block, would the MMS220 heads still work? If my assumptions are correct, the MMS220s and Cathedral LSXR 102 will work fine, but the motor would just produce less HP and TQ.
If I opted for a 4.155" bore block, would the MMS220 heads still work? If my assumptions are correct, the MMS220s and Cathedral LSXR 102 will work fine, but the motor would just produce less HP and TQ.
06-18-2020, 07:07 PM
#4
TECH Enthusiast
Really? That much? I calculate about 392 cubic inches. I just put 220s on my 6.2 (376 cubic inches). I doubt I'm giving up 100 hp over 235s, and I certainly gained a lot of low end and midrange. I'm surprised if people really think another 16 cubic inches makes that much difference with respect to how much head is "needed".
06-18-2020, 08:34 PM
#5
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It will be torquey AF. The heads will support about 660 flywheel on a 4 inch bore. More on the larger bore. Maybe not ideal but likely make a fun motor.
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DualQuadDave (06-18-2020)
06-19-2020, 02:39 AM
#6
From what I have seen on that bore size the 235 head is down around 25hp compared to the 245 head so I would estimate the 220 head will be down about 50hp.
But the engine will be torquey as hell off idle and in the mid range.
It might bring a tear to your eye.
You will also need to use more camshaft to help the engine hang on in the top end.
But the engine will be torquey as hell off idle and in the mid range.
It might bring a tear to your eye.
You will also need to use more camshaft to help the engine hang on in the top end.
06-19-2020, 10:22 AM
#7
From what I have seen on that bore size the 235 head is down around 25hp compared to the 245 head so I would estimate the 220 head will be down about 50hp.
But the engine will be torquey as hell off idle and in the mid range.
It might bring a tear to your eye.
You will also need to use more camshaft to help the engine hang on in the top end.
But the engine will be torquey as hell off idle and in the mid range.
It might bring a tear to your eye.
You will also need to use more camshaft to help the engine hang on in the top end.
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Che70velle (06-19-2020)
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06-19-2020, 10:42 AM
#8
Regardless of what you have for the top end, if you have the opportunity to build a 4.155 bore short block you should absolutely take it! You can always upgrade the top end later and grow into it, but you may never have that chance again to build the bottom end.
Would you keep stock 3.622 stroke or step up to a 4” stroke? I vote build the bigger engine.
Would you keep stock 3.622 stroke or step up to a 4” stroke? I vote build the bigger engine.
06-19-2020, 10:52 AM
#9
Regardless of what you have for the top end, if you have the opportunity to build a 4.155 bore short block you should absolutely take it! You can always upgrade the top end later and grow into it, but you may never have that chance again to build the bottom end.
Would you keep stock 3.622 stroke or step up to a 4” stroke? I vote build the bigger engine.
Would you keep stock 3.622 stroke or step up to a 4” stroke? I vote build the bigger engine.
- Since I can get lower compression pistons, this would eliminate the need for me to go flex-fuel right now, so that knocks $1700 off of my build list. I can probably sell my LS1 longblock for $1K. That covers the cost of the rotating assembly.
- My potential bonus would cover the cost of a 12571048 block core (assuming I can find one for a good price) and the resleeving and machining at R.E.D.
- Gas to and from R.E.D. twice is maybe $150.
So... I'd just have to come up with the $ for final hone and assembly.
06-19-2020, 11:12 AM
#10
I also got a camshaft from him too for my build.
But I have the 245 head.
Please post the cam specs once you receive them.
06-19-2020, 11:12 AM
#11
Regardless of what you have for the top end, if you have the opportunity to build a 4.155 bore short block you should absolutely take it! You can always upgrade the top end later and grow into it, but you may never have that chance again to build the bottom end.
Would you keep stock 3.622 stroke or step up to a 4” stroke? I vote build the bigger engine.
Would you keep stock 3.622 stroke or step up to a 4” stroke? I vote build the bigger engine.
06-19-2020, 11:13 AM
#12
I talked with Steve at R.E.D. and he recommended a max of 4.155" bore and 4" stroke, since I still want the option of a Magnuson blower. So, 4" stroke is what I would go with.
- Since I can get lower compression pistons, this would eliminate the need for me to go flex-fuel right now, so that knocks $1700 off of my build list. I can probably sell my LS1 longblock for $1K. That covers the cost of the rotating assembly.
- My potential bonus would cover the cost of a 12571048 block core (assuming I can find one for a good price) and the resleeving and machining at R.E.D.
- Gas to and from R.E.D. twice is maybe $150.
So... I'd just have to come up with the $ for final hone and assembly.
- Since I can get lower compression pistons, this would eliminate the need for me to go flex-fuel right now, so that knocks $1700 off of my build list. I can probably sell my LS1 longblock for $1K. That covers the cost of the rotating assembly.
- My potential bonus would cover the cost of a 12571048 block core (assuming I can find one for a good price) and the resleeving and machining at R.E.D.
- Gas to and from R.E.D. twice is maybe $150.
So... I'd just have to come up with the $ for final hone and assembly.
I was told the same thing and that's what I did.
06-21-2020, 08:21 AM
#14
10 Second Club
06-24-2020, 10:08 AM
#16
How long could a sleeved and bored aluminium block safely sit before being honed and having the rotating assembly installed, if it was wrapped up with plastic wrap?
How long could an assembled aluminum shortblock safely sit before being installed, if it was wrapped up with plastic wrap?
How long could an assembled aluminum shortblock safely sit before being installed, if it was wrapped up with plastic wrap?
06-24-2020, 11:37 AM
#18
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Agreed with Spanks. But instead of an oil, I’d wipe a good high-temp petroleum based grease on the cylinder walls. Will cling better and stay longer. Wrapping a block with plastic will actually hold condensation in which promotes rust. You should bag it and not tie the end of the bag off, to let it breathe.
06-24-2020, 11:48 AM
#20
Agreed with Spanks. But instead of an oil, I’d wipe a good high-temp petroleum based grease on the cylinder walls. Will cling better and stay longer. Wrapping a block with plastic will actually hold condensation in which promotes rust. You should bag it and not tie the end of the bag off, to let it breathe.
Just trying to figure out a way that I can make this happen. I found a junk yard near me that has some 12571048 blocks for $300. Depending on my travel schedule for the rest of the year, I might try to sell/trade the MMS 220s for MMS235s and go for the 434.