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So after having the block honed, new piston rings but still the same rods and crank the tuner was setting the idle and a rod went through the block. Still don't know if the heads are good or not.
The shop that I deal with had sent the engine to a builder that they have used for previous builds without issue.
The rods were reused with about 20,000 miles on them. I guess that's the price you pay to play.
So now I'm not sure what I am going to do. I had been thinking about selling the car, but had changed my mind with the idea of doing some smaller road course lapping days. Now I am gutted and thinking of just unloading it as a roller.
It always sucks when things like this happen . But I always try to take some time to reflect on what I would have done different / can salvage out ove the mess I created. And use it as a learning tool. Your next set up will prolly be better off with what you just learned....... Happy wrenching sir.
So after having the block honed, new piston rings but still the same rods and crank the tuner was setting the idle and a rod went through the block. Still don't know if the heads are good or not.
The shop that I deal with had sent the engine to a builder that they have used for previous builds without issue.
The rods were reused with about 20,000 miles on them. I guess that's the price you pay to play.
Yeah, either forgot to tighten a rod bolt or, more likely, tightened it and it stretched just shy of failure. When you started it, that was all it took. A lot of guys re-use the rod and main bolts, but I have verified on a Snap-on digital wrench myself that they lose clamping force everytime they tightened. The bolts in an LS are really not re-useable, even though so many on the net have gotten away with it, it's all luck of the draw.
I use the theory that every person between me and the tech doubles the chances of something going TU..
I always deal directly with anybody working on my stuff. Engine, body suspension, so if I do it myself,,
I seldom have had to re-do it.
Luckily I have good local connections, so I have a "guy" for most stuff I need that I might not be in the mood or have the time or tools to handle.
So after having the block honed, new piston rings but still the same rods and crank the tuner was setting the idle and a rod went through the block. Still don't know if the heads are good or not.
The shop that I deal with had sent the engine to a builder that they have used for previous builds without issue.
The rods were reused with about 20,000 miles on them. I guess that's the price you pay to play.
Well after some crying over spilt milk, I'm on the hunt for a new combo. I'm up in Canada so just getting a combo to me is difficult. I like the torque the cathedral heads produce and it only makes sense to reuse the fast 102, Its not going to give me the glory top end number but under the curve torque is impressive.
I even lookied at the Frankenstein heads, the drawback is not just the cost but having to go to a semi custom header. Found a C5R short block for sale on the Corvette forum filled with a really nice rotating assembly. I've sent a couple of PMs and waiting to hear back on my last post.
I trusted someone to work on a set of TSP PRC LS7 cylinder heads and after installing them I began running into valve train issues..
After further I soon learned that he actually replaced my Manley titanium LS7 valves with used hollow stem LS3 valves and as a result ruined all the bronze guides for the intake valves..
Ended up having LME build me a set of Brodix BR7's and once I got it back together off to the to the drag strip I went. I made one pass that night and my personal best of 11.8 at 125 mph. Yeah I know that sucks but that was without a burnout and only a 2500 rpm launch.
I haven't been back to the track since that run and I'm actually looking forward to getting this car back to my tuner. It had the TSP heads when I first had it on his dyno and he never got to spin it past 4,000 because of a fuel pressure issue. The engine made 474 rwhp and 490 rwtq at 4,000 rpms but the moral to the story is that you can't keep a good man down!... I wish you all the best moving forward and good luck on scoring that C5R short block....
Have you been able to do a teardown yet and see what might have happened? Besides the obvious of course. If the rod bolt was untorqued/low torque, it should still be in one piece and the nut loose in the pan. If the bolt broke, you should find two pieces of the rod bolt. What do the rod halves look like?
Sucks to have happened, is the shop stepping up to any help?
Is the C5R shortblock a 427 I think? That would be a nice starting point being race engine to start with.
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Motor has blown up 
I soon learned that he actually replaced my Manley titanium LS7 valves with used hollow stem LS3 valves and as a result ruined all the bronze guides for the intake valves..
