Too stroke or not to stroke!?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,035
Likes: 664
I would do the 4.00” stroker. Do the heads have larger valves? Either way, I would definitely stick cathedral port heads as you want under the curve torque. Ls3 heads are great but harder to cam correctly. Since you have 243s. I’d stick with them. Just get a good ported 102/102 tb and enjoy. I regretted selling my 243s. I wanted to have TEA STG2 port with a ls3 stroker. That went out the window when I bought my house. IMHO, The best deal out there is a 408 stoker with TEA. Stg 2 243 heads with turned down LS3 intake valves and a ported 102/102.
what ever you do, please do the research 1st. Patrick g does a great job with cams for ls3 heads if you go that route
what ever you do, please do the research 1st. Patrick g does a great job with cams for ls3 heads if you go that route
I would do the 4.00” stroker. Do the heads have larger valves? Either way, I would definitely stick cathedral port heads as you want under the curve torque. Ls3 heads are great but harder to cam correctly. Since you have 243s. I’d stick with them. Just get a good ported 102/102 tb and enjoy. I regretted selling my 243s. I wanted to have TEA STG2 port with a ls3 stroker. That went out the window when I bought my house. IMHO, The best deal out there is a 408 stoker with TEA. Stg 2 243 heads with turned down LS3 intake valves and a ported 102/102.
what ever you do, please do the research 1st. Patrick g does a great job with cams for ls3 heads if you go that route
what ever you do, please do the research 1st. Patrick g does a great job with cams for ls3 heads if you go that route
Hey man, I read your sticky, nice work! I built my current setup to be able to still be a daily driver if needed (even tho it’s probably got less than 10k miles in the last 5 years) with great power, be very reliable, but still be able to bust *** if these newer high HP cars try me. I feel
torque under my current setup is really lacking, top end speed is underwhelming also. I still want the reliability, but I’m looking for a lot more HP and torque now. That’s why I figured I’d build a 408 instead of just the standard 6.0. But if the new setup can run in the Tens and I can still use the car to make a 3 hour run to the Florida coast I’d be excited. My friend has the 6.0 block and the 823 heads, and I have my Ai ported 243’s, I’m just tryna figure out the best combo. Also, I saw texas speed has a 218/221 stroker kit for the LQ4/9 setups should I be considering that also if I don’t ever plan on forced induction?
torque under my current setup is really lacking, top end speed is underwhelming also. I still want the reliability, but I’m looking for a lot more HP and torque now. That’s why I figured I’d build a 408 instead of just the standard 6.0. But if the new setup can run in the Tens and I can still use the car to make a 3 hour run to the Florida coast I’d be excited. My friend has the 6.0 block and the 823 heads, and I have my Ai ported 243’s, I’m just tryna figure out the best combo. Also, I saw texas speed has a 218/221 stroker kit for the LQ4/9 setups should I be considering that also if I don’t ever plan on forced induction?
Damn, disappointment considering I am doing almost a replica build to your current one but in an m6 car. I thought that would have ran hard against most newer cars. I'm sure I will get used to the power after long though and wish I went FI or bigger CI as well. Good luck with your new build.
Nothing you did. I am doing a build similar to yours with AI 226cc and similar cam and other mods and just seeing how you aren't happy with it makes me reconsider not going FI or to a different platform when I'm about to spend $8k+ with me doing labor on a h/c/i build using similar parts as you. I know everyone's threshold for power is different and maybe you just got used to the power, but I wouldn't think your car would be having issues running down newer cars. Maybe I misunderstood your post and you are happy with your build but wanting to go more max effort now.
Nothing you did. I am doing a build similar to yours with AI 226cc and similar cam and other mods and just seeing how you aren't happy with it makes me reconsider not going FI or to a different platform when I'm about to spend $8k+ with me doing labor on a h/c/i build using similar parts as you. I know everyone's threshold for power is different and maybe you just got used to the power, but I wouldn't think your car would be having issues running down newer cars. Maybe I misunderstood your post and you are happy with your build but wanting to go more max effort now.
going to the 6.0’s Now, I’m not happy with the low end torque. The money I spent rebuilding the engine I could’ve done the 408 years ago. Nah they can’t hang with the setup, even tho there’s more too end to be desired also.
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 115
Likes: 6
Nice project and tough decision going on!!
One thing I will say is you could not pay me to run stock ls3 heads if I had access to A.I church ports!! Stroke or throw some pistons in that lq and have fun. You can make 500rw easy without stroking and those heads. But those heads and a 4xx stroker be a tq monster.
One thing I will say is you could not pay me to run stock ls3 heads if I had access to A.I church ports!! Stroke or throw some pistons in that lq and have fun. You can make 500rw easy without stroking and those heads. But those heads and a 4xx stroker be a tq monster.
Nice project and tough decision going on!!
One thing I will say is you could not pay me to run stock ls3 heads if I had access to A.I church ports!! Stroke or throw some pistons in that lq and have fun. You can make 500rw easy without stroking and those heads. But those heads and a 4xx stroker be a tq monster.
One thing I will say is you could not pay me to run stock ls3 heads if I had access to A.I church ports!! Stroke or throw some pistons in that lq and have fun. You can make 500rw easy without stroking and those heads. But those heads and a 4xx stroker be a tq monster.
So can you guys give me some advice on what I may need or ask about the machine work? I spoke with two machine shops who both said they do a ton of LS engines, and stoked builds. One gave a price to prep the block for the rotating assembly and balance the rotating assembly about $760.
The other place the guy was really thorough asking questions about the studs I’ll be using, whether it’s ARP or not, and honing with a deck plate or not, benefits to honing with a deck plate. Here’s his prices belowARP line hone $245
Bore and hone W/O deck plate $310, W/deck plate $400
Parallel deck block $100
Notch block for HBeam rods $200
Clean block , galley plugs $190
Balance rotating assembly $285
ARP studs $240
The other place the guy was really thorough asking questions about the studs I’ll be using, whether it’s ARP or not, and honing with a deck plate or not, benefits to honing with a deck plate. Here’s his prices belowARP line hone $245
Bore and hone W/O deck plate $310, W/deck plate $400
Parallel deck block $100
Notch block for HBeam rods $200
Clean block , galley plugs $190
Balance rotating assembly $285
ARP studs $240
So It’s not really the price I’m concerned with. I keep reading how important competent machining is when putting a 408 together. Is there anything I should be asking?
The machining is pretty standard stuff, but either you or your machinist will need to chamfer the bottom of the cylinders after they’re honed. The piston skirts will protrude below the bottom of the cylinders at BDC, which is not a problem unless the cylinders have a sharp edge at the bottom. The sharp edge will shave material off the skirts when the piston heads back towards TDC, so it needs to be chamfered or rounded off.
