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Too stroke or not to stroke!?

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Old Jul 27, 2020 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by KCS
The machining is pretty standard stuff, but either you or your machinist will need to chamfer the bottom of the cylinders after they’re honed. The piston skirts will protrude below the bottom of the cylinders at BDC, which is not a problem unless the cylinders have a sharp edge at the bottom. The sharp edge will shave material off the skirts when the piston heads back towards TDC, so it needs to be chamfered or rounded off.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention! I’m heading to the shop in a few so I’ll have them go over some details with me.
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Old Aug 2, 2020 | 09:51 PM
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So I’m seeing two options for LS7 lifters, GM and the Delphi “LS7 style” lifters that are a bit less than the GM version. Should I go with the more expensive option, is there a difference in material or quality since Delphi is a gm parts manufacturer?
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOut LS1
So I’m seeing two options for LS7 lifters, GM and the Delphi “LS7 style” lifters that are a bit less than the GM version. Should I go with the more expensive option, is there a difference in material or quality since Delphi is a gm parts manufacturer?
The Delphi ones are not the OEM ones.
Yes Delphi Is a supplier for GM, but in the case of lifters for these engines, these are not original equipment. They are a re-boxed Item which is why they are listed as "LS7 Style".

If you dig deeper you will see some have had issues with the Delphi units.
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 08:55 PM
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Why even bother with OEM-style lifters? I wouldn't put LS7 lifters in a budget freshen up, much less a stroker build. Throw some nice link-bar low travel lifters in there. The valvetrain is not the place to start saving pennies. It should be a higher priority than adding stroke/displacement/boost.
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidBoren
Why even bother with OEM-style lifters? I wouldn't put LS7 lifters in a budget freshen up, much less a stroker build. Throw some nice link-bar low travel lifters in there. The valvetrain is not the place to start saving pennies. It should be a higher priority than adding stroke/displacement/boost.
Been saying the same thing for a long time.

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Old Aug 4, 2020 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidBoren
Why even bother with OEM-style lifters? I wouldn't put LS7 lifters in a budget freshen up, much less a stroker build. Throw some nice link-bar low travel lifters in there. The valvetrain is not the place to start saving pennies. It should be a higher priority than adding stroke/displacement/boost.
Well I know a lot of guys normally use and suggest the LS7 lifters bc they’re a strong and moderately priced part. I was advised the link bar lifters would be overkill for my build since I’m not doing racing or a high revving build. Now I am interested about about a set of short travel lifters a guy is using on his LS3 Miata. I read his post last night they seem to be an even strong part and quieter.
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 10:41 AM
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So the short block is back from the machine shop and found a place that had Johnson 2116 short throw link bar lifters, I ordered them. The shop that put the short block together is gonna measure for the pushrods when I get to that point. Is there anything else in the valve train I should consider replacing, I feel that my heads are pretty tight, they were put together with BTR Dual springs, I kept the stock rockers but did the trunion upgrade. Only about 10k miles on the entire setup.
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOut LS1
So the short block is back from the machine shop and found a place that had Johnson 2116 short throw link bar lifters, I ordered them. The shop that put the short block together is gonna measure for the pushrods when I get to that point. Is there anything else in the valve train I should consider replacing, I feel that my heads are pretty tight, they were put together with BTR Dual springs, I kept the stock rockers but did the trunion upgrade. Only about 10k miles on the entire setup.
I just completed a 408. Those lifters are a good choice. Pushrod length is critical! Extra critical with not much room for error. Check with a comp tool multiple times, write it down and then call manton. Order their pushrods, they know how much to add or take away depending on how you measure. Run a quality dual spring and tool steel retainers. I can redline mine to 7500 no float. Shift at 7100. Hollow stem 2.08 valves. Tick stroker stage 1 cathedral cam.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bspeck82
I just completed a 408. Those lifters are a good choice. Pushrod length is critical! Extra critical with not much room for error. Check with a comp tool multiple times, write it down and then call manton. Order their pushrods, they know how much to add or take away depending on how you measure. Run a quality dual spring and tool steel retainers. I can redline mine to 7500 no float. Shift at 7100. Hollow stem 2.08 valves. Tick stroker stage 1 cathedral cam.
I received the lifters and I was just gonna throw my low mike heads on the setup, what intake you running? I’m gonna let the shop that machines the block and put it together measure and order the pushrods, I’m not up for that task TBH.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOut LS1
I received the lifters and I was just gonna throw my low mike heads on the setup, what intake you running? I’m gonna let the shop that machines the block and put it together measure and order the pushrods, I’m not up for that task TBH.
I run an MSD atomic ls1/2/6 intake that is ported
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 07:32 PM
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So I’m seriously rethinking using my current cam and heads for my new 408 build. I purchased a FAST 102 from a friend, and I’m thinking about doing a bigger cam and LS3 heads. Advanced Induction seems to be swamped with work and I can’t reach Phil and ask him about my ported 243’s and a bigger cam with the 408. Geoff at EPS advised that I’d need to change my 98 computer if I went the LS3 route. I like the cathedral ports for the torque that’s going to be made, but I’d also like to unlock more of the potential power a 408 can make with a bigger flowing head. Is there anyway I can get a little of both? I’d like ALOT of torque, good street manners, and be able to bust *** when needed.
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 10:23 PM
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MMS 235s,AFR 230s,TFS 235s,PRCs with a
SCHMEDIUM ~ 239*/245* would be pretty killer with your Trans/Converter/Diff combo.
Should add 100 RWHP/80 LB' at peak and FATTER curve everywhere.
Great street manners and wicked throttle response.
My .02
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 11:19 PM
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I couldn't get a response from AI either and I used alternate emails thinking maybe it was blocking my Main ISP to try and reach them. I ultimately had to go elsewhere.

I wouldnt Hesitate to go with a larger Aftermarket Cathedral head on the 408. They really need to breath on the top end and that is were most guys fall short.

I would definitely look in to Tony Mammo and his offerings for your application. He never fails to disappoint and may also enlighten you on things you hadn't considered for your build.

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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by NAVYBLUE210
MMS 235s,AFR 230s,TFS 235s,PRCs with a
SCHMEDIUM ~ 239*/245* would be pretty killer with your Trans/Converter/Diff combo.
Should add 100 RWHP/80 LB' at peak and FATTER curve everywhere.
Great street manners and wicked throttle response.
My .02
That sounds like something I’d be very interested in! To save some cash could I have the LS3’s ported?
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 09:25 AM
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A bone stock 821 or 823 rec port head (LS3) will flow as much as even the very best ported 243 head on the intake side. It's on the exhaust side that the rec ports could use some help, but you can help them a bunch with camshaft design and save yourself some dough by not having them ported. If you have the cash, and want to have them ported, I'd highly recommend Total Engine Airflow's CNC programs. I use them exclusively for CNC porting.

If you do run the rec port heads stock (unported), increase the split between intake and exhaust duration. You've got plenty of converter, so I'd suggest something like a 236/248 or 238/250, on a 112, run it 4 degrees advanced, and about .360-.365 lobe lift if you're running stock rockers. Spring it accordingly. I'd recommend duals. Between the better heads, adding 60 cubic inches, and some more camshaft to feed it, you'll have a pretty sweet runner.

Your ECM won't know (or care) what heads you're running. As long as you have a 24x crank and 1x camshaft, you'll be good.
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dynamic396
A bone stock 821 or 823 rec port head (LS3) will flow as much as even the very best ported 243 head on the intake side. It's on the exhaust side that the rec ports could use some help, but you can help them a bunch with camshaft design and save yourself some dough by not having them ported. If you have the cash, and want to have them ported, I'd highly recommend Total Engine Airflow's CNC programs. I use them exclusively for CNC porting.

If you do run the rec port heads stock (unported), increase the split between intake and exhaust duration. You've got plenty of converter, so I'd suggest something like a 236/248 or 238/250, on a 112, run it 4 degrees advanced, and about .360-.365 lobe lift if you're running stock rockers. Spring it accordingly. I'd recommend duals. Between the better heads, adding 60 cubic inches, and some more camshaft to feed it, you'll have a pretty sweet runner.

Your ECM won't know (or care) what heads you're running. As long as you have a 24x crank and 1x camshaft, you'll be good.
Thanks for that info! I think ima go ahead and get them ported. I messaged TEA through their site last week so hopefully I get a response soon. There’s a local guy who CNC ported my brothers 243’s and I’m really wanting to use him bc of what I’ve seen and the conversations we’ve had about his porting.
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 10:29 PM
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I would have used the AI 243's, cam, and Fast 90/90 on the 408, personally. Try a single plane intake and custom cam later.

But if you insist on the LS3 top end... here is something straight out of Tusky's cookbook:

416ci, LS3 heads untouched, LS3 intake untouched, 3450 lbs, 239/254 624/595 114+3 cam
10.49 @ 131.45 mph e.t
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackedOut LS1
Thanks for that info! I think ima go ahead and get them ported. I messaged TEA through their site last week so hopefully I get a response soon. There’s a local guy who CNC ported my brothers 243’s and I’m really wanting to use him bc of what I’ve seen and the conversations we’ve had about his porting.
You won't be disappointed with TEA's work. I have a pair of 243's and a pair of 823's boxed up and ready to ship off to them...a couple of fun projects over the winter.
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 08:08 AM
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Updates……So, it’s been a while, I halted the build bc I ended up purchasing and mildly restoring a 66 mustang for my dad and surprised him on fathers day 2021. I wish I woulda ran across a running 67-69 Camaro for the same price and I woulda got him that instead. But he is a ford guy(hey you can’t choose your father!)…nah pops is TBE! ALSO….during the time of the mustang affair I found out I was going to be a dad for the first time, my big girl is almost 9 months old now. But daddy still needs his toys too so until I purchase a 2010+ CTS-V or 2010+ C6 I’m tryna build this ole 408.

I ran across this old thread it’s 65 pages I read the entire thread and this guy built this amazing 403 set up with ported L92 heads and cam specd by WCCCH. The car made 522/488 that got 21 mpg, was quiet and drove like a stock vehicle before he later converted to a 427.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...b-c-d-e-f.html

His build sounds like what I’ve always wanted especially now bc I wanna have my daughter with me and not have her exposed to all the noise and smelling of fuel like daddy. Guess I’ll have to look into a set of HF cats. Basically if anyone can chime back in and give me more input I’ll be greatly appreciative. AI is still not responding to email, I have two different top end engine setups to choose from and it’s like killing me be bc everyone’s advice here have been really good.
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Old Aug 27, 2022 | 08:38 AM
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Your average 403 will make 470-480 in an auto and 500-530 in a stick car. I've heard great things from wcch. If you want a nice driving car that still moves out I would look into a set of ported ls6 heads from wcch or frankenstein, cam motions stealthy stroker cam or similar. You could run magnaflow high flow cats but they tend to burn up when you run them in big cam cars. From my experience, the fuel smell was replaced with a sulfur smell, so I took them off.

if you want something real quiet, see about incorporating a dynomax super turbo muffler into the build.
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