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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 08:48 AM
  #21  
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I will echo what was said earlier about a smaller cam.

From the 408 results threads:
416ci, LS3 heads untouched, LS3 intake untouched, 3450 lbs, 239/254 624/595 114+3 cam
10.49 @ 131.45 mph e.t

I would possibly go even smaller, like:
235/241 605/605 112+2
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 09:06 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by DavidBoren
I will echo what was said earlier about a smaller cam.

From the 408 results threads:
416ci, LS3 heads untouched, LS3 intake untouched, 3450 lbs, 239/254 624/595 114+3 cam
10.49 @ 131.45 mph e.t

I would possibly go even smaller, like:
235/241 605/605 112+2
I would put that second camshaft on a 115 LSA or else the IVC is too early for a motor of that size.
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Old Dec 16, 2020 | 12:58 PM
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I wound up going with a 242/254 on a 112+3 that Cam Motion specced after dicussing my requirements and vehicle specs. There were a few reasons for this, but the biggest reason is NOT wanting to blow the tires off on corner exit. Hoosier has ended the gravy train of contingency tires so I will be going back to 200TW for 2021. The old LS1 already made more than enough for 30-40mph exits. My personal preference is a slight over-cam just so that too much exit wheelspin is one less bit of bandwidth for the brain to deal with on busy courses. Second, I'm starting to do more events where top end matters more than in the past.

Worst case, it gets re-cammed later on if I end up not liking it.
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 05:13 PM
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I've discovered that in my old age I am no longer motivated to put on pants and walk to my unheated detached garage to work on the car when it's in the 20s-40s. And I need the temperature to be at least in the 40s to measure bearing clearances. So I did the only sensible thing and brought the new engine inside.

Another LS3-ibmoxyn.jpg

Moved it into the spare bedroom for cleaning and assembly. Still need to move a desk in there so I can throw the rods in a vice and torque them down. And I should throw a computer and spare TV in there for entertainment.

Another LS3-fkrbo2t.jpg

Still waiting on some parts direct from GM before assembly can start, but at least now I can clean parts in my underwear
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 06:34 PM
  #25  
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Interesting thread. I remember seeing you on The Car Lounge back when I used to hang around there, years ago. I'm glad to see you're still tearing it up with that Camaro!
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 06:44 PM
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LOL. An engine shop with nice oak floors. If you aren't single, you have a VERY understanding and flexible wife.
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by grubinski
LOL. An engine shop with nice oak floors. If you aren't single, you have a VERY understanding and flexible wife.
I was just gonna say..... LOL!
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob570
Interesting thread. I remember seeing you on The Car Lounge back when I used to hang around there, years ago. I'm glad to see you're still tearing it up with that Camaro!
I still post here and there but it's pretty rare. Honestly I've learned that the less time spent on forums the happier I am. To an extent.

Originally Posted by grubinski
LOL. An engine shop with nice oak floors. If you aren't single, you have a VERY understanding and flexible wife.
It's just super cheap Pergo flooring that I honestly don't like. Pattern is awful but for some reason it always photographs much better than it actually is. This entire house needs to be renovated so I don't care too much if I ruin anything, but I'm not in a hurry to spend that money either.

The new girlfriend just laughed when I sent her those photos. She also was a spotter for me while I pulled the engine out of the car on Thanksgiving day. I hope she sticks around.

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Old Feb 5, 2021 | 09:27 PM
  #29  
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Hasn't been a whole lot going on lately between the weather and waiting on parts, but things finally started to show up again. Looks like I'll have to cut off the stock windage tray studs on the passenger side to fit the pan.

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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 07:34 PM
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Turns out the rings had not been gapped when everything was shipped to me, so there was some back and forth figuring that out. Add to it one of my ******** cats stole the woodruff keys for the Manley crank and then UPS lost the package for the replacements. So lots of delays. In the mean time I decided to see what the no-name all seasons on the tow pig could do.

Attachment 713180

Finally started making progress again the last few days though. Gapped all the rings and put the shortblock together. Pistons measured between .002-.006" out of the hole, so I'll be ordering a pair of 0.045" head gaskets. Should put it just a smidge under 12.0:1. Once I get those I can measure for pushrod length.

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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 08:34 PM
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What Aviad kit is that and how much was it?
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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 79_T/A
What Aviad kit is that and how much was it?
It's their standard F-body 3 stage "C" kit. I already had the ATI underdrive pulley and an ARP bolt, but everything else was $3150 shipped to Ohio. Includes fittings for all of their parts, but leaves all the hose and hose fittings up to you.
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 03:11 PM
  #33  
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Had a fever the last few days that is really kicking the crap out of me but I am still forcing myself to keep working. Head gaskets came in so I threw in the lifters and installed the heads. Tomorrow I will try to get through verifying PTV clearance and measuring all pushrod lengths. Also waiting on a few bolts I forgot about before I can throw the front/rear covers and pan on.

Another LS3-mtk12hp.jpg

This weekend I need to drill holes in the valve covers for the 12an breathers and drop them off to get bungs welded on. Trying to drop them right in behind the factory style baffles in the center of the cover. Hopefully this weekend I can also start on dropping the tank for the 340lph pump install. I plan on re-using the 6an line I had previously as the new return line and adding a -8 for the new feed line. The struggle will just be figuring out how to route everything up front to clear the front tires at full compression.

For the dry sump, XRP specifically recommended their ProPlus stainless hose for the suction lines to avoid collapsing them. The good news is I only need about 3 feet of -10 and a 2-3 feet of -16 so it really doesn't add much to the cost. I think I'll also use that for the main feed to the block as well since it's rated for 500F vs 300F for XR-31 and it all runs run next to the header primaries.

I've also basically given up on trying to have the dampers revalved this season. I think it's going to be all I can handle to get this thing assembled, plumbed, and tuned by mid-May. Judging from past experience the backlog for Penske parts is just too long that time of year if I need something that isn't on the builders shelf.

Last edited by landstuhltaylor; Feb 24, 2021 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 08:36 PM
  #34  
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Pretty sure you have the heads on backwards... IIRC, the sticker was on the back of my driver's side head. It'll never work the way you have it. ;-)
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 09:01 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by grubinski
Pretty sure you have the heads on backwards... IIRC, the sticker was on the back of my driver's side head. It'll never work the way you have it. ;-)
SSHHHH!!! (Secret speed trick...) DON'T TELL ANYONE!!
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Old Feb 26, 2021 | 03:56 PM
  #36  
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I wonder if that's why my toilet spins backwards?

Got between 7.522 and 7.548 to get all the pushrods to no lash. Planning on ordering 7 at 7.565, 7 at 7.575, and 2 at 7.585. Should put all the preloads at .040 plus or minus .005. Also measured PTV clearance and with the valve reliefs the scientific term is "a metric ****-ton."
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Old Feb 26, 2021 | 04:01 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by landstuhltaylor
I wonder if that's why my toilet spins backwards?

Got between 7.522 and 7.548 to get all the pushrods to no lash. Planning on ordering 7 at 7.565, 7 at 7.575, and 2 at 7.585. Should put all the preloads at .040 plus or minus .005. Also measured PTV clearance and with the valve reliefs the scientific term is "a metric ****-ton."
For reference a metric **** ton is 1.1 imperial **** tons. That should help the Americans who are trying to help you.
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Old Feb 26, 2021 | 04:51 PM
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My feelings about imperial units usually have a lot in common with my feelings about my old LT1 Trans Am: good riddance

Gimme them commie numbers
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Old Feb 26, 2021 | 06:03 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
For reference a metric **** ton is 1.1 imperial **** tons. That should help the Americans who are trying to help you.
I'm impressed.... you know a **** ton about a ton of ****....
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by landstuhltaylor
My feelings about imperial units usually have a lot in common with my feelings about my old LT1 Trans Am: good riddance

Gimme them commie numbers
Funny. In tuning, I completely agree. In parts assembly, I still prefer imperial.
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