Another LS3
Imperial hard parts are even worse. I absolutely hate it when I buy an aftermarket part and it comes with imperial hardware. That now means I have to carry two sets of tools to the track. And fractions are stupid anyway. Don't get me started on the absolute retardation that is pound force vs pound mass.
I live kPa, C, kg, N-m, mm, etc etc all day every day at work. Imperial anything can die in a fire. Time to build back better with metric.
I live kPa, C, kg, N-m, mm, etc etc all day every day at work. Imperial anything can die in a fire. Time to build back better with metric.
Hmmmm might have to do something stupid. Where are you putting the tank?
I'm going to try and put it where the stock battery used to be. Might be tough with this 7.5" diameter tank but I'm going to try. If I hadn't originally planned on the rear seat I definitely would have gone with the 6" tank.
It did include the tank as well as tank mounts. I can send you a copy of the invoice if you are curious. The only things I am buying separately to make it a fully functional dry sump system are the lines. If you wanted to add an oil thermostat or cooler or anything that would be extra as well. Their remote oil filter mount (included) does have a few extra NPT ports you could stick a temp sensor in as well. There are two things that are not standard for mine: 1. I opted for the 16an feed line fittings on the pump and tank and 2. I already had the ATI balancer and ARP bolt so they only sent me the correct hub with HTD drive. I am re-using the actual balancer itself.
One weird thing I could have lived my life never knowing is that GM doesn't drill out the rear two steam ports on LS3 heads. It never even crossed my mind to check that. Since I already ordered the Manton pushrods I'll just live with only the two corners functional. Going to be a bit weird that they are the ones in the back and I had wanted to vent all four but... oh well. I'll just plug the extra ports on the Motion Raceworks manifold I had laying on the shelf from a previous abandoned project. Good thing the only car show it will see is the yearly one at work (Honda R&D). The American guys mostly don't care about a Camaro that turns and the Japanese staff have no idea what they are looking at anyway.
One weird thing I could have lived my life never knowing is that GM doesn't drill out the rear two steam ports on LS3 heads. It never even crossed my mind to check that. Since I already ordered the Manton pushrods I'll just live with only the two corners functional. Going to be a bit weird that they are the ones in the back and I had wanted to vent all four but... oh well. I'll just plug the extra ports on the Motion Raceworks manifold I had laying on the shelf from a previous abandoned project. Good thing the only car show it will see is the yearly one at work (Honda R&D). The American guys mostly don't care about a Camaro that turns and the Japanese staff have no idea what they are looking at anyway.
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; Mar 2, 2021 at 11:32 PM.
I would have to actually add up all the numbers, but based on when I last looked I think I'm in the engine for about $9500 including intake manifold, fuel injectors and rails, ignition coils, and all sensors. The dry sump will add about another $4000 when it's all said and done. And of course sadly there are other changes happening that are also hurting my wallet. Switching from a Fays2 to a UMI to fit the 4" sewer pipe, upgrading the fuel pump and adding a new line, replacing the dogshit MWC subframe connectors with UMI, wiring upgrades and fixes, and some other odds and ends. Winch for the trailer so I don't destroy the clutch in 2 seasons again. I'm very much an atheist but even I will be doing some praying that the 10 bolt will hold together this season and win enough contingency tires to offset my budget. I'm guessing that spare Truetrac will be called up from the reserves to help out.
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Doing some mockup on the oil tank and remote filter:
It looks like there will be enough room to put it in front where the battery tray is. I'm going to mount it directly to the frame rail there, with the remote filter mounted to the same location on the inside. Seems like it will be a bit too difficult to fish an M8 bolt all the way back to where it needs to go and I don't really want to use a rivnut. I'm thinking something like these welded on are the answer: https://www.mcmaster.com/weld-nuts/m...ase-weld-nuts/
It looks like there will be enough room to put it in front where the battery tray is. I'm going to mount it directly to the frame rail there, with the remote filter mounted to the same location on the inside. Seems like it will be a bit too difficult to fish an M8 bolt all the way back to where it needs to go and I don't really want to use a rivnut. I'm thinking something like these welded on are the answer: https://www.mcmaster.com/weld-nuts/m...ase-weld-nuts/
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; Mar 5, 2021 at 08:09 AM.
Small update. Been chipping away at the chassis side of things, but I did have some minor issues with the engine. First is that the standard LSx ARP bolt does not fit with that setup as it is too short, so I have the correct bolt on the way. Second is that the Aviaid pan doesn't quite clear the 4" stroke out of the box. I didn't have any issues on the stand but I am hearing some interference now. So it's coming off the subframe to get clearanced. Finally when it was installed on the subframe there was no clearance at all left when the 16an feed fitting was installed. I'll have to look into the different fitting options from XRP as well as Brown and Miller to come up with something that works. The good update is that the valve covers are back from fab and the Manton pushrods are in. And the fuel pump has been changed so the tank will be going back in with the new feed line as well as the UMI Watts.
Dyno is scheduled for April 19th. Should allow time for everything to get sorted.
Dyno is scheduled for April 19th. Should allow time for everything to get sorted.
Something I just thought of, do I need to be ordering a driveshaft? I've been running the stock steel one to avoid twisting an aluminum one in half and I really don't want to see this one fail. Yes it is an autocross car, but we do still have drag style starts just not on prepped strips. Worst case will be launches on rubbered-in concrete with 335 A7 or Rival-S tires, about 3250lbs with me. I don't think the car has ever gone better than a 2.095 60 foot with the 500lb springs in the back. I expect to blow up the 10 bolt, I really DON'T want to snap a driveshaft. Ideally I wind up with a 9" next off-season but who knows what the budget really looks like then.
Oil pan is back on and clears. I had to grind down the baffle louvers for the rod bolt on each of the cylinder pairs. I also hadn't quite cut one of the main studs down enough to clear. Hoping to roll it back under the car this weekend. Also trying the Moog Problem Solver ball joint style front lower control arm bushing. Was never allowed to use it in the old ESP days. The stock style ones would be absolutely shredded and falling apart after a typical 80 run season.
Oil pan is back on and clears. I had to grind down the baffle louvers for the rod bolt on each of the cylinder pairs. I also hadn't quite cut one of the main studs down enough to clear. Hoping to roll it back under the car this weekend. Also trying the Moog Problem Solver ball joint style front lower control arm bushing. Was never allowed to use it in the old ESP days. The stock style ones would be absolutely shredded and falling apart after a typical 80 run season.
Got the engine in the car now and just welded in the dry sump tank mounts. It's tight.
Still have enough room where even with the slightly taller BFG I still won't have contact at full bump and full steer (something that shouldn't ever happen). Interestingly enough since I've bent the control arm mounting plate from bottoming the car out, the upper arm, the tire to metal fender liner, and the tire to upper fender support rail all hit at the same time. Guess I won't be going back to that lower ride height again until I can pull some weight in the front and go to a spring in the 1400+ range.
XRP does not make a fitting that will let me use the 16an feed in the space I have and with the 10an pump inlet. I can either use their 12+ large bore line or have Brown & Miller make me a line that goes directly from 16an hose to a 10 ORB port. Decision for tomorrow. The only way I've found to fit the Peterson filter between the pump out and filter is to run the line down below the sway bar, then a 120 degree fitting to the filter sitting in the same plane but just behind the radiator. Then it can just make a hard 90 as soon as it clears the frame rail and into the tank, snaking between the radiator hose and the rail. Remote filter will have to go on the front side of the core support right behind the driver headlight. And the only spot I've found for the fuel regulator is on the opposite side of that. Breather can will be in the typical passenger cylinder head spot.
Would make it a hell of a lot easier if I just tube framed the front but that's a project for another shell and another season.
Still have enough room where even with the slightly taller BFG I still won't have contact at full bump and full steer (something that shouldn't ever happen). Interestingly enough since I've bent the control arm mounting plate from bottoming the car out, the upper arm, the tire to metal fender liner, and the tire to upper fender support rail all hit at the same time. Guess I won't be going back to that lower ride height again until I can pull some weight in the front and go to a spring in the 1400+ range.
XRP does not make a fitting that will let me use the 16an feed in the space I have and with the 10an pump inlet. I can either use their 12+ large bore line or have Brown & Miller make me a line that goes directly from 16an hose to a 10 ORB port. Decision for tomorrow. The only way I've found to fit the Peterson filter between the pump out and filter is to run the line down below the sway bar, then a 120 degree fitting to the filter sitting in the same plane but just behind the radiator. Then it can just make a hard 90 as soon as it clears the frame rail and into the tank, snaking between the radiator hose and the rail. Remote filter will have to go on the front side of the core support right behind the driver headlight. And the only spot I've found for the fuel regulator is on the opposite side of that. Breather can will be in the typical passenger cylinder head spot.
Would make it a hell of a lot easier if I just tube framed the front but that's a project for another shell and another season.
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; Apr 10, 2021 at 04:01 PM.
Should be able to attempt first start tomorrow. Packaging is tight, might actually be worse to service than a stock car now. Took 11qts of oil to fill it up after running the pump on a drill and might take the 12th once it is running. The smell of fresh E85 is definitely getting me excited.
I would say I'm excited to be done wrenching, but after this I still need to do the timing belt and brakes on the Golf, VANOS/AC compressor/window regulator/weatherstripping on the M3, and battery relocation on the RX8.
I would say I'm excited to be done wrenching, but after this I still need to do the timing belt and brakes on the Golf, VANOS/AC compressor/window regulator/weatherstripping on the M3, and battery relocation on the RX8.
Tried to fire it today and it caught for a bit but didn't stay running. After looking at the tune I had some settings wrong so I'll try those changes tomorrow. I was at least able to verify no leaks and 80psi at the oil filter. Pretty sure I have the wrong factory pressure sensor in it so the dash gauge (functional 98) is pegged hard right. Looks like I'll have to back the adjustment screw out a bit on the pump to get it closer to 70psi. It did pull the tank about a quart lower once things really got moving, so that should give it more room to expand. Flex sensor wiring is also working and reading E60 with the gallon or so of 93 left in the tank and ~12 gallons of pump E85.
Last edited by landstuhltaylor; Apr 10, 2021 at 12:07 AM.
