What limits RPM?
But it's pointless because you won't be making more power. HP levels with the stock cam falls off by 6000 rpms.
KW
Trunnion kit and springs. I did not have the cam and springs installed so I don't know what they are.
I have a set of Yella Terra Ultralite twin shaft rockers to install. If there is something else to improve the valve train I might do it when I change the rockers. I am thinking about having the heads ported but I will probably wait on that.
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Trunnion kit and springs. I did not have the cam and springs installed so I don't know what they are.
I have a set of Yella Terra Ultralite twin shaft rockers to install. If there is something else to improve the valve train I might do it when I change the rockers. I am thinking about having the heads ported but I will probably wait on that.
Are you looking for a power goal, or do you just want to turn rpm regardless?
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Thanks for the helpful reply.
The card for my cam is in post #5.
Not necessarily looking to make a specific number. As long as I am opening it up to replace the rockers I wanted to see if there was anything else I should do. I plan to rebuild the bottom end next year with forged internals and want the heads, valve train and intake to go with it. If there is something relatively easy to do while I am in there and it will let me spin the engine safely, higher or not, I may do it.
I didn't have the cam installed, bought it that way, so I don't know what the springs are. I assume they went with what Comp Cams recommended for that cam. I sent Comp Cams an email asking what the recommended spring rate would be.
I will port the intake and open the mouth to accommodate a Soler TB opened up to 102 mm and do the rod mod. I have a plan for reinforcing the intake manifold after removing the pillars since I am running a CSC.
I would not have know about the additional nose weight of the YT Ultralite rockers. It would never have occurred to me. Thanks!
How much additional spring rate is needed to compensate for that?
Your in a pickle per say, not knowing what valve spring you have. Pull a cover and let us know if the springs are beehive or duals. If beehive, are they colored? If duals, maybe a name or part number on a retainer. Again, 7k isn’t crazy these days, just depends if you want to blip to 7k or live there.
825ish WHP? Not for me, not on a sbe. I want to build a forged bottom end but I don't what to have to build a forged bottom end. If I can run it a year or two on the sbe, that would be just fine.
I am hoping I can do as you say and identify the springs by sight. Worst case I can pull one and measure it. Might not be a bad idea anyway. I would rather wait until I get some head work done to the the spring and do valves at the same time.
Thanks @Che70velle ! and @rpturbo !












