Need a Machine shop to replace sleeve
#1
Need a Machine shop to replace sleeve
Hi everybody I am in need of a machine shop in Boston area that is reputable in replacing a sleeve on LS 6.2 ..just one sleeve, prepp n clean block.deck plate hone for new pistons..Any help would be greatly appreciated..thanks very much..also willing to travel NH -VT,
Last edited by ls7racer; 02-14-2021 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Adding
#4
If Golen bores cylinders, they should be able to install sleeves. I cut my teeth, so to speak, on Japanese motorcycles in the late 1960s-early 1970s. All the Japanese motorcycle engines used aluminum cylinders with sleeves back then. We would bore the block/cylinders .001"-.0015" undersize, heat the block/cylinders, and have the sleeve(s) in a tub of dry ice. When ready for the sleeve(s), we'd put on some snowmobile mitts, grab the sleeve, and it would literally drop right into the bore. Let all the temps equalize, then bore/hone cylinder, maybe decking the cylinder a couple thousandths. That was the tricky part. All the 4 stroke Japanese bikes used single or double overhead cams. You don't want to take much off when decking, as it changes the cam timing a slight amount. A V8 should be reasonably easy. This procedure sure beats pressing the sleeves in!!
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rkupon1 (02-17-2021)
#5
I’m in the same situation I need a sleeve in anLS3 block, my machinist says he can do it by boring out the old liner until there’s nothing left of it. The OEM sleeve is supposedly ribbed and cannot be be pulled out only bored out and some of the ribs remain and a new smooth sleeve is pressed in and decked. Of course this costs more than a regular sleeve install.
#6
I’m in the same situation I need a sleeve in anLS3 block, my machinist says he can do it by boring out the old liner until there’s nothing left of it. The OEM sleeve is supposedly ribbed and cannot be be pulled out only bored out and some of the ribs remain and a new smooth sleeve is pressed in and decked. Of course this costs more than a regular sleeve install.
#7
I’m in the same situation I need a sleeve in anLS3 block, my machinist says he can do it by boring out the old liner until there’s nothing left of it. The OEM sleeve is supposedly ribbed and cannot be be pulled out only bored out and some of the ribs remain and a new smooth sleeve is pressed in and decked. Of course this costs more than a regular sleeve install.
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#8
I can't imagine why it would cost any more to bore out. Machinist might need 1 or 2 additional passes to make the aluminum bore more acceptable to the ductile iron sleeve. But a sleeve is a sleeve, unless you're talking about 2 stroke engines, which are a PITA due to all the intermittent cuts, due to the ports, and port locations. Maybe another $10-$20 at most for an additional 2 passes with the boring bar. Don't let them tell you any differently, either. I wish you luck....
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Corona (02-19-2021)
#9
Sleeving LS3 based blocks
If you try to save a block using a straight wall repair sleeve it needs a shelf on the bottom to sit on. Most of these blocks don't have enough material at the bottom of the bore to support a repair liner. It is not worth the risk. If that sleeve breaks loose and drops down it's all over.
My suggestion is to get another block or get the block sleeved with flanged Darton dry liners that aren't going anywhere if properly installed.
LS9 rough bored for Darton sleeve installation.
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
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#10
Photo is an LS9 block, LS3 based, that I installed Darton dry liners in today. The bores cleaned up on one side, facing the rear, and not the other, front side, on the first three cylinders, cylinder 7 cleaned up 360 degrees around. On this block I had to shift the bores ten thou towards the valley on the left bank and five thou towards the valley on the right from the crankshaft center line to get down to clean aluminum for sleeve installation. These blocks are the worst of the Gen IV blocks to sleeve. Most times the sleeves aren't straight up and down, right angles to the deck on these making the job even more difficult.
If you try to save a block using a straight wall repair sleeve it needs a shelf on the bottom to sit on. Most of these blocks don't have enough material at the bottom of the bore to support a repair liner. It is not worth the risk. If that sleeve breaks loose and drops down it's all over.
My suggestion is to get another block or get the block sleeved with flanged Darton dry liners that aren't going anywhere if properly installed.
LS9 rough bored for Darton sleeve installation.
If you try to save a block using a straight wall repair sleeve it needs a shelf on the bottom to sit on. Most of these blocks don't have enough material at the bottom of the bore to support a repair liner. It is not worth the risk. If that sleeve breaks loose and drops down it's all over.
My suggestion is to get another block or get the block sleeved with flanged Darton dry liners that aren't going anywhere if properly installed.
LS9 rough bored for Darton sleeve installation.
#11
Good advice, Steve. You did one of my blocks years ago. Shipping cost me some $$$ from Michigan to California, and back. You did a Knock Out job, and if I ever do the Darton sleeves again, I'll gladly pay $$$ to send it your way again. Guys, nobody knows the LS sleeving job like Steve/R.E.D.. The old saying "Good work ain't cheap, and cheap work ain't good", comes to mind......
The following 2 users liked this post by gnx7:
Double06 (03-06-2021), DualQuadDave (03-06-2021)