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I hope you done some grinding on that alternator bracket to help get the valve cover off. I’m running the same system you r (crower) but proform Valve cover . and have to remove the alternator every time to adjust valves .grinding the bracket help to get the cover of easier.(good luck with your build )I think you and me are on the same mission 9s in a quarter with are cars?
I hope you done some grinding on that alternator bracket to help get the valve cover off. I’m running the same system you r (crower) but proform Valve cover . and have to remove the alternator every time to adjust valves .grinding the bracket help to get the cover of easier.(good luck with your build )I think you and me are on the same mission 9s in a quarter with are cars?
Yep, some grinding on the big bracket was required to clear the tall valve covers.
I was running bottom 10's with a crappy clutch release that also had me short shifting as well..... mid 130's, with 575 uncorrected RWHP.
I actually ran a best of 10.24@136.3 on a 1.60 60' in 1600+ DA, but the timers were not working on the 1/8 and 1000' marks so the slip is incomplete...and therefore didn't count for listing on any of the posted Fast List charts.
While I didn't purposely build the car for 1/4 drag racing, I feel confident I'll be able to pilot the car into the 9's once i get my mojo back
Not another car into a low key auto cross... Keep it ole skool with a few modern touches..
The Vettes already had enough changes to cover any need.
My Chevelle is not being built for any sort of competition.
But, I'm not willing to deal with 70's technology and architecture if i don't have to....drum brakes, old school shocks and flappy suspension, bias ply tires, points and condensor, etc.
The car will retain it's classic looks and heritage, but some modern tech thrown in to make the car safer, more comfortable, and more efficient.
My cars are for driving...not just pretty garage queens
....drum brakes, old school shocks and floppy suspension, bias ply tires, points and condenser, etc.
Only one place for the above hardware..... the dump!
Discs... gas pressurized..... delrin/urethane... radials..... coil on plug and EFI... cruisin' material!
Transmission cooler line leak repaired and fuel pump relay issue resolved !!!
Ready for the breakin procedure, re-tune for the new cam, and it's dyno time
Last of the 6 pulls at WOT to 6000 RPM, data logged, oil drained and magnetic plugs inspected, and review of dyno chart to see where we are at.
I'll cut open and inspect the filter for any content, load up some fresh Joe Gibb's Driven 10W40, and we should be good to go with some testing and WOT pulls to 7500-7700 RPM.
Dyno chart shows last baseline pull (blue trace), data point selected at 6000 RPM (for a direct comparison) with engine at 3K miles, 0W40 Castrol European blend, E85, and my original McCleod RXT 1200 twin disc clutch.
Red/Green trace is breakin pull, limited to 6000 RPM, fresh engine with 6 WOT pulls to date, pump gas (didn't risk ethanol fuel washing cylinders during break in process), Joe Gibb's Driven 5W30 breakin oil, heavier Monster triple disc clutch. Timing limited to 20*, no knock detected but we did get a IAT sensor failure which need to be checked and cleared, but so far so good.
Remarkable that the dyno traces almost lay on top of one another, but the valvetrain changes (cam/springs/port work) will show up in the upper RPM ranges. I suspect once I get a few more pulls to loosen up the engine and run on E85, those initial numbers will go up 10-15 RWHP/TQ across the board as the engine will also accept a bit more timing with the better fuel.
Change to Joe Gibb's Driven 10W40, added some ethanol fuel up to 47%, picked up th 10 RWHP and 10 RWTQ at 6000 as expected.
Wound her up to 7500, we hit 691/579 ....691@7000 and power is flat out to 7500 (668).
This is with less than 50% ethanol and a 3.90 rear gear.
Pretty warm day, correction was 1.05 today (92+ degrees).
10-15-2021, 07:35 AM
