My HorsePower Research HPR 468 build 2.0
05-22-2022, 09:49 AM
#121
You pick bushed lifters when you say to yourself do I want bearings in my Love....
I've got junk and won't even consider it let alone think about it. It's called eliminating a problem or worry with a part that has High usage...the bushing will give a tell tell sign it's about to self destruct. Unlike needle bearings..
Free game 😉
I've got junk and won't even consider it let alone think about it. It's called eliminating a problem or worry with a part that has High usage...the bushing will give a tell tell sign it's about to self destruct. Unlike needle bearings..
Free game 😉
05-22-2022, 09:53 AM
#122
anything below 800 is fair game.
05-22-2022, 09:54 AM
#123
TECH Senior Member
This AM a study in afterthoughts?
05-22-2022, 10:42 AM
#125
At 468 cubes With enough air 900 fwhp doable.
As a street engine..😉 although Rowdy 🤣
Imagine John B engine just Bigger 😅 & there friends 🤫
Erik's a Ole Ole teacher before tech...
As a street engine..😉 although Rowdy 🤣
Imagine John B engine just Bigger 😅 & there friends 🤫
Erik's a Ole Ole teacher before tech...
05-22-2022, 10:49 AM
#126
05-22-2022, 01:21 PM
#127
if you’re going to run the street Corona ? I would rethink about running bushing lifters. mine **** the bed after 1,200 miles with only 585 spring pressure @ 35 lbs idle pressure @ 200 temperature I don’t trust them anymore
just to let you know the engine was pre oiled with a pressure oil tank .and spun with the spark plugs out before starting.and then run 2,000rpm for 20 minutes and let completely cooled down.there a lot of snake oil being sold out there today.sorry but for the street I would stay away for them. you would think 1,100 dollars set of lifters would stand 585 spring pressure (15 of 16 bushing were wore out but roller were still turning.
05-22-2022, 06:58 PM
#128
Was told to keep the oil Clean is the biggest problem. Your one of a few brother I've seen or heard of having problem...
Key thing is if you were using a needle bearing lifters and it did the same thing you may have had needles though out your engine.
Key thing is if you were using a needle bearing lifters and it did the same thing you may have had needles though out your engine.
Last edited by Corona; 05-22-2022 at 09:07 PM.
05-22-2022, 10:11 PM
#129
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
The bushing is soft. It’s enemy is lash or anything that will allow the valvetrain to see a sharp impact/beating like a two step box while staged, etc. Closing ramps of lobes have to be chosen carefully. Bushed lifters are a maintenance item, whereas a needle lifter will last much longer. Either way, check your lash often. You’ll find an issue when lash opens up regularly. Todays solid setups really don’t move much, so if your making lash, you have a problem. I’ve talked with Billy Godbold at length about this very topic.
The following 3 users liked this post by Che70velle:
05-23-2022, 02:34 PM
#130
sorry I was asking the? to badas06
if you’re going to run the street Corona ? I would rethink about running bushing lifters. mine **** the bed after 1,200 miles with only 585 spring pressure @ 35 lbs idle pressure @ 200 temperature I don’t trust them anymore
just to let you know the engine was pre oiled with a pressure oil tank .and spun with the spark plugs out before starting.and then run 2,000rpm for 20 minutes and let completely cooled down.there a lot of snake oil being sold out there today.sorry but for the street I would stay away for them. you would think 1,100 dollars set of lifters would stand 585 spring pressure (15 of 16 bushing were wore out but roller were still turning.
if you’re going to run the street Corona ? I would rethink about running bushing lifters. mine **** the bed after 1,200 miles with only 585 spring pressure @ 35 lbs idle pressure @ 200 temperature I don’t trust them anymore
just to let you know the engine was pre oiled with a pressure oil tank .and spun with the spark plugs out before starting.and then run 2,000rpm for 20 minutes and let completely cooled down.there a lot of snake oil being sold out there today.sorry but for the street I would stay away for them. you would think 1,100 dollars set of lifters would stand 585 spring pressure (15 of 16 bushing were wore out but roller were still turning.
Mike you alright with me.
I'm gonna make that thread on the discontinued lifter and whats the new differences... I need 2 know this 💩
Here's that tid bit...look at the exhaust valve.
https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads...#post-65690274
05-24-2022, 12:55 AM
#131
05-24-2022, 01:30 AM
#132
Carry on.
Last edited by Corona; 05-24-2022 at 01:35 AM.
05-24-2022, 06:15 AM
#133
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The bushing is soft. It’s enemy is lash or anything that will allow the valvetrain to see a sharp impact/beating like a two step box while staged, etc. Closing ramps of lobes have to be chosen carefully. Bushed lifters are a maintenance item, whereas a needle lifter will last much longer. Either way, check your lash often. You’ll find an issue when lash opens up regularly. Todays solid setups really don’t move much, so if your making lash, you have a problem. I’ve talked with Billy Godbold at length about this very topic.
The only real "hassle" IMO with solids is the cam is bigger when the car is colder, so it's a bit more tuning. Beyond that, you only really notice power and reponsiveness.
The following 2 users liked this post by Darth_V8r:
Corona (05-24-2022), DualQuadDave (05-24-2022)
05-24-2022, 10:02 AM
#135
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
People still think of solid valvetrains like the 1950's when the owner's manual came with instructions for adjusting your valvetrain on a regular basis. I've given up trying to convince people that solids are not what they used to be. The performance industry has really made them into something. Especially the advancements in lobe designs.
The only real "hassle" IMO with solids is the cam is bigger when the car is colder, so it's a bit more tuning. Beyond that, you only really notice power and reponsiveness.
The only real "hassle" IMO with solids is the cam is bigger when the car is colder, so it's a bit more tuning. Beyond that, you only really notice power and reponsiveness.
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Corona (05-24-2022)
05-24-2022, 01:10 PM
#136
People still think of solid valvetrains like the 1950's when the owner's manual came with instructions for adjusting your valvetrain on a regular basis. I've given up trying to convince people that solids are not what they used to be. The performance industry has really made them into something. Especially the advancements in lobe designs.
The only real "hassle" IMO with solids is the cam is bigger when the car is colder, so it's a bit more tuning. Beyond that, you only really notice power and reponsiveness.
The only real "hassle" IMO with solids is the cam is bigger when the car is colder, so it's a bit more tuning. Beyond that, you only really notice power and reponsiveness.
Regarding the bushed vs needles...I guess I'm going to find out. I have bushed Isky endurance lifters ready to go in my deal. I know they're meant to go 1000+ miles at full song, but street use is hard on parts. Your valvetrain still goes through the same motion and stresses despite the lower RPM. Warming up the race cars my dad has always asked me to keep it up at 1500-2000 and don't let them idle until some heat gets into everything specifically for the lifters and the roller tips on the rockers. The extra rpm gets a lot more oil flowing and splashing around. The bushed lifters that have come out of my dad's big blocks have been good as new every time they've been checked out after hundreds of runs whereas the needle lifters became 100 run service items and thrown away at risk of losing another engine. Big blocks are especially hard on lifters though with the awkward side loading from canted valvetrain and offset pushrod.
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Corona (05-24-2022)
05-24-2022, 01:30 PM
#137
It really seems like this thing has almost nothing left to give. Any suspicion why it is being so unresponsive to modifications at 700whp? Where you're at I'd think 5-6% more power shouldn't be out of the question but it just isn't playing nice.
Can you try the intake off his Monte Carlo?
edit - this is already an incredible result, and will perform above and beyond what anyone will expect. I assume posting this tedious journey invites nitpicks and questions haha. If anything your experiences here just goes to show you can't take any single horsepower for granted in an NA application, and no two builds are ever going to respond the same way. At this level an engine isn't just a +20 bolt-on here, +5 there until you're at 850hp+.
Can you try the intake off his Monte Carlo?
edit - this is already an incredible result, and will perform above and beyond what anyone will expect. I assume posting this tedious journey invites nitpicks and questions haha. If anything your experiences here just goes to show you can't take any single horsepower for granted in an NA application, and no two builds are ever going to respond the same way. At this level an engine isn't just a +20 bolt-on here, +5 there until you're at 850hp+.
Last edited by spanks13; 05-24-2022 at 01:37 PM.
05-24-2022, 04:40 PM
#138
It really seems like this thing has almost nothing left to give. Any suspicion why it is being so unresponsive to modifications at 700whp? Where you're at I'd think 5-6% more power shouldn't be out of the question but it just isn't playing nice.
Can you try the intake off his Monte Carlo?
edit - this is already an incredible result, and will perform above and beyond what anyone will expect. I assume posting this tedious journey invites nitpicks and questions haha. If anything your experiences here just goes to show you can't take any single horsepower for granted in an NA application, and no two builds are ever going to respond the same way. At this level an engine isn't just a +20 bolt-on here, +5 there until you're at 850hp+.
Can you try the intake off his Monte Carlo?
edit - this is already an incredible result, and will perform above and beyond what anyone will expect. I assume posting this tedious journey invites nitpicks and questions haha. If anything your experiences here just goes to show you can't take any single horsepower for granted in an NA application, and no two builds are ever going to respond the same way. At this level an engine isn't just a +20 bolt-on here, +5 there until you're at 850hp+.
Now If a stock ls3 needs a 5500/6500 TB for 8800 rpm what does a 468 need at 7500?
The test of the Holley with different lids gives us some sort of idea of what more available air does.
05-24-2022, 05:42 PM
#139
I haven't tried with a street car yet, but even when cold it is still much less seat to seat duration than a big hydraulic cam, and the valve opens faster. I've always been told that solid rollers idle better than hydraulic. You do get more overlap at .050 when cold though so it is going to run rough. Are you fattening it up and adding some more timing on cold starts?
Regarding the bushed vs needles...I guess I'm going to find out. I have bushed Isky endurance lifters ready to go in my deal. I know they're meant to go 1000+ miles at full song, but street use is hard on parts. Your valvetrain still goes through the same motion and stresses despite the lower RPM. Warming up the race cars my dad has always asked me to keep it up at 1500-2000 and don't let them idle until some heat gets into everything specifically for the lifters and the roller tips on the rockers. The extra rpm gets a lot more oil flowing and splashing around. The bushed lifters that have come out of my dad's big blocks have been good as new every time they've been checked out after hundreds of runs whereas the needle lifters became 100 run service items and thrown away at risk of losing another engine. Big blocks are especially hard on lifters though with the awkward side loading from canted valvetrain and offset pushrod.
Regarding the bushed vs needles...I guess I'm going to find out. I have bushed Isky endurance lifters ready to go in my deal. I know they're meant to go 1000+ miles at full song, but street use is hard on parts. Your valvetrain still goes through the same motion and stresses despite the lower RPM. Warming up the race cars my dad has always asked me to keep it up at 1500-2000 and don't let them idle until some heat gets into everything specifically for the lifters and the roller tips on the rockers. The extra rpm gets a lot more oil flowing and splashing around. The bushed lifters that have come out of my dad's big blocks have been good as new every time they've been checked out after hundreds of runs whereas the needle lifters became 100 run service items and thrown away at risk of losing another engine. Big blocks are especially hard on lifters though with the awkward side loading from canted valvetrain and offset pushrod.
