After being burned a few times, you learn to trust no one. I check everything including my machinist.

 

I can’t agree more. If anything, it’s good to measure everything, just for your notebook. I take notes for everything. If any questions arise later, I have data to look back on. I have pages and pages of notes for engines that I built…or had built, such as my circle track stuff, due to time restraints…that go back years. There’s data there that could be useful later. And best of all, PAPER NEVER FORGETS.

 

Hell, you can order the correct head gaskets and still have the wrong gaskets in a mislabeled box. Happened to me. Ordered stock LS9 MLS GM gaskets. Box was labeled right and gaskets in the box/bag were 6.0L gaskets. Happened to notice that there weren't as many layers and they had 6.0L stamped on the gaskets.

 

I realize its used in the A4 transaxle setup, and not the manual 6 speed. The bolt I'm referring to is on the flexplate/starter ring gear. Man, if you overlook that, it's a SOB to slide the engine forward, for sure!!! RonSSNova says there's now an aftermarket flexplate out that uses no pinchbolt. Don't mean to hijack, just to inform.....

 

This must be a Corvette thing; I have never seen anything like what you are describing.

 

Exactly, and I believe I posted that it was in a C5, in post #20. Every C5 A4 ever built has that pinch bolt. Now that the OP has found out he has the wrong head gaskets, I want to offer up something else on the C5 pinch bolt scenario. If you plan on hard use on an A4 C5, it's best to get the entire drivetrain up to normal temps, head for home, jack it up, prop it on jackstands, get under the vehicle, and release that pinch bolt while everything is hot, hot, hot. Don't ask me how I know, or this post will seem short in comparison!!!!

 

I would love to see a pic of it just so I'd be sure to know where to look if I ran in to the problem.. !

 

Again, only the C5 A4 has this. Not sure about the C6 auto. Anyway, the place to look is this; with the car supported safely, get under the traditional bellhousing (where the torque converter normally goes). You will see a black, oval shaped rubber/plastic cover at the bottom of the housing. Pop it out, and shine a light up inside. You'll see it right away, and it will be self explanatory.....
Not following these directions cost me an engine......