Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

first of all, i think the arh race stepped headers are too much. someone mentioned earlier they see the stepped have gains, and this may be true, but i dont think its the stepped to 2 1/8 doing it, i think its the 3.5" collector doing it. im doing something extremely similar to you with extremely similar goals. i personally chose the 2" ARH race headers to 3.5" collector. this im sure is up for debate and will be debated lol. in a perfect world i think that 1 7/8 stepped to 2 to a 3.5 collector is a perfect world for someone chasing numbers in a vette, in a 427 or 434 at least. if going 468 or higher somehow maybe a different story. the only 3.5" collector QUALITY header i think that is available off the shelf is ARH with straight 2" or 2 to 2 1/8"......but either way i think the 3.5" collector is the trick.

i think chevelle mentioned throat size on the msd, i believe greg good does a 112mm opening on the msd, dont ask me how but it was wayyyyy too much money for my interests.

and op, what made you choose katech red over katech blue? i would think you wouldnt want higher pressure since you wont be running squirters

jayyyw

As far as the headers, I wasn't aware ARH offering 2" with 3.5" collectors. I've already ordered the race versions so I guess we will see how they do. Would be hard to pin point an issue now, since I am basically changing everything besides the bottom end and head port, haha.

I chose the red pump because the lifters are axle oiling, so I will be losing oil pressure there. Also, ideally, the next engine that I build will have piston squirters so I can run more vacuum with the vacuum pump (if it's needed).

I've pretty much ordered everything. Sending off the heads tomorrow to WCCH. Just waiting for everything to trickle in at this point.

Cometic .040" or OEM .051" head gaskets? Only thing I am not sure on. I've ran the cometics before and it "drank" a little bit of coolant. Maybe Cometics with some copper spray?

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

yes, when arh says race headers, basically race means 3.5" collector. i did have to ask around but arh does make a 2" with 3.5 collector. idk tho, i have axle oiling and with a melling 10296 im at 37-38 hot idle with 10w 40, and wot hot probably somewhere around 58-60. really think you're goona have too much pressure in this thing. an oil pump isnt something you should buy to "grow into" in my opinion, really should be specced to the engine its going into. yea axle oiling may drop pressure 3-5 max, nowhere near the drop squirters will which is what the red pump is designed for

jayyyw

It’ll be alright

jayyyw

Shipped my heads to WCCH today. Didn't get a lead time on them. Still waiting on quite a few parts anyway. In the meantime, I'm just cleaning stuff up around the engine bay and removing things I no longer need. Boring stuff.

Still curious about this. Leaning towards the Cometics for the tight quench.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Jay, to do this right you’ll want to find out exactly how much your pistons are out of the hole. Not just one cylinder, but at a minimum the four outer holes. I’d go ahead and find all eight because I’ve seen so many variances in conn rod length, compression heights, etc.
It very well could boil down to a .040 gasket, but you simply wont know until you measure. Get a deck bridge and two dial indicators. Once you know the numbers, take the hole with the crown out the furthest and set you quench up on that cylinder. Of course you can simply throw a gasket at it and say “close enough”, but when you find yourself on the 2 yard line, instead of the end zone, you have to blame yourself. Do it once, and do it right.
edit…I copper spray Cometics on big compression builds for the insurance factor on an LS platform with only 10 headbolts. I’ve had many a debate on here and other forums about using spray with Cometics, but it’s never come back to bite me yet, knock on wood.

jayyyw

This is definitely becoming a very expensive endeavor, lol. I'm basically buying all the "specialty" tools that I don't already currently own while also upgrading the hard parts on the engine. Don't like to borrow stuff from friends so I am trying to gather all the tools I would need for this. I saved the Proform bridge and dial gauge to my Amazon list. I think this is something I will be borrowing from my engine builder.

grubinski

Good plan. I’ve always done that, and now that I’m old, I almost always have the tool I need.

jayyyw

Ended up getting a crank scraper from Improved racing to add onto the list. Trying to eek out every last bit I can.

ETA May 6 for the headers. Hoping to have the heads back before then or around the same time.

Did find a Hi Ram. I was getting worried there. I took the Shear lid to get powdercoated at a local place.

Once the heads get back I can measure for pushrods and then see what I need to do to get an air intake on it with the Hi Ram.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

When I was NA I had a smaller radiator moved to the side and a large bellmouth beside it in the lower grille area with tubing ran straight to the throttle body. It worked well and would see positive pressure 103-104kpa at speed, I tried a big lexan scoop as well but those are a lot more intrusive.

Corona

Reason I won't touch my engine build.... I like my basic tool set and not having 1 use tools or rental.

jayyyw

I want to eventually move to a scirocco radiator to open up more space in front of the engine and bellmouth out of the front bumper.

jayyyw

I'll never buy the expensive micrometers or bore gauges and stuff. Everything I have gotten I will use more than once I am sure.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

Scirocco rad works surprisingly well. I didnt have mine stick out of the bumper, but perhaps that would work even better.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

what vehicle is this in......if its a wet sump i hope you are investing in a deeper pan

jayyyw

C6z dry sump car

jayyyw

A friend of mine tested the ShearFab lid over his previous fabricated lid. The previous lid made 5whp peak more than the stock Holley lid. The ShearFab lid made another 13-15whp over the previous fabricated lid. Amazing gains from just a lid swap. Glad I went with the ShearFab lid.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

can u post a link to the shearfab lid?

jayyyw

https://shearerfabrications.com/products/sf06-05009

jayyyw