NA C6z Build
06-06-2024, 07:51 PM
#561
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
06-19-2024, 08:22 PM
#562
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Ordered some screen filters for the TBs, since they are back out in the open.
Took it out this weekend to hang with some friends. After all the recent changes, the idle and low speed tuning needed some work. Believe I got that sorted out. Did a pull and fueling at WOT was pretty good, within 2-3% the whole way. So, safe to say, that issue is long behind me.
Did finally get to "test" out the new wheel/tire setup. Seems like it's going to work out okay. Did get a little spin off the rip in 2nd gear, but was on a normal asphalt road, instead of the concrete we usually run on. Unfortunately, with the extra weight I added with the wheels and tires, it's not really any faster than the other wheels on the 28" tires. It does look better, tho.
I did get all the nitrous stuff hooked back up. Once the weather clears up again, I'll take it out and try to get that lined out.
I'm sort of at a crossroads with the build now. I've been thinking about parting out and going with another boost build. Possibly supercharged, since I haven't gone that before.
I ordered some resonators that I am going to put on to try to calm down the exhaust note a little. The exhaust is really the big thing that keeps me from driving it more often. It's loud and gets a lot of attention. I'll make it so I can remove the extra exhaust, easily, if needed.
Something is going to change after the half-mile in October. Just don't know what.
Either time to go solid roller
Supercharged
Turbo
Took it out this weekend to hang with some friends. After all the recent changes, the idle and low speed tuning needed some work. Believe I got that sorted out. Did a pull and fueling at WOT was pretty good, within 2-3% the whole way. So, safe to say, that issue is long behind me.
Did finally get to "test" out the new wheel/tire setup. Seems like it's going to work out okay. Did get a little spin off the rip in 2nd gear, but was on a normal asphalt road, instead of the concrete we usually run on. Unfortunately, with the extra weight I added with the wheels and tires, it's not really any faster than the other wheels on the 28" tires. It does look better, tho.
I did get all the nitrous stuff hooked back up. Once the weather clears up again, I'll take it out and try to get that lined out.
I'm sort of at a crossroads with the build now. I've been thinking about parting out and going with another boost build. Possibly supercharged, since I haven't gone that before.
I ordered some resonators that I am going to put on to try to calm down the exhaust note a little. The exhaust is really the big thing that keeps me from driving it more often. It's loud and gets a lot of attention. I'll make it so I can remove the extra exhaust, easily, if needed.
Something is going to change after the half-mile in October. Just don't know what.
Either time to go solid roller
Supercharged
Turbo
The following 2 users liked this post by jayyyw:
C5_Pete (06-21-2024), Ryans99ls1 (06-20-2024)
06-20-2024, 08:20 AM
#563
A solid roller nitrous deal is helluva street car man. And from the little movement and driving i have done with mine. The "crispness" of the revs and response alone in a solid roller makes the switch worth it.
That being said, if your intent is stay on the street and keep doing half mile stuff, going turbo is the only way. especially if you are keeping a manual. spend the money/time on boost by gear and you will have a killer car. I had a boost leash 6spd boost by gear with CO2 setup on my TA and I LOVED it. Completely changed the car for the better once i put it all in because of how tunable it finally became. 4lbs in 1st gear, 24 in 4th gear. Even brake boosting, it had ZERO traction issues for a car that made just shy of 1000ftlbs before 4000rpm. The ramp rates per gear made it a breeze.
Lightweight supercharged cars are too much for the street in my opinion. More difficult power management and belts hate stick shift cars.
vette was a mid to high 130s car. My TA just started walking harder and harder each gear, loved it lol.
That being said, if your intent is stay on the street and keep doing half mile stuff, going turbo is the only way. especially if you are keeping a manual. spend the money/time on boost by gear and you will have a killer car. I had a boost leash 6spd boost by gear with CO2 setup on my TA and I LOVED it. Completely changed the car for the better once i put it all in because of how tunable it finally became. 4lbs in 1st gear, 24 in 4th gear. Even brake boosting, it had ZERO traction issues for a car that made just shy of 1000ftlbs before 4000rpm. The ramp rates per gear made it a breeze.
Lightweight supercharged cars are too much for the street in my opinion. More difficult power management and belts hate stick shift cars.
vette was a mid to high 130s car. My TA just started walking harder and harder each gear, loved it lol.
Last edited by Ryans99ls1; 06-20-2024 at 08:34 AM.
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jayyyw (06-20-2024)
06-20-2024, 07:16 PM
#564
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
I really want to do more events. How the car is, it pretty much qualifies at the bottom of the fastest class (depending on a few variables). I'm pretty much outgunned and just throwing money in the air. Going turbo, I still may be outgunned, but at least I have a better chance.
I don't want to rely on the nitrous. Right now its just a crutch to go faster. Rather have the power on tap at all times.
I've done the turbo thing and was able to go pretty fast. I know the recipe. I do hate the belt issues that come with supercharging.
Whatever route I go, I'm keeping the shortblock as-is. I'll likely do some BR3 heads from Cesar. That would put compression in the 12:1 range. Shooting for ~1200whp.
The following 2 users liked this post by jayyyw:
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06-21-2024, 07:59 AM
#565
I hear you. The NA game is more of a personal challenge. In competition, no one cares though lol.
A 12:1 turbo car is highly enticing. The response and efficiency will make for a killer powerband. I forgot you lived the turbo life before, couldn't help going down memory lane though.
A 12:1 turbo car is highly enticing. The response and efficiency will make for a killer powerband. I forgot you lived the turbo life before, couldn't help going down memory lane though.
The following 2 users liked this post by Ryans99ls1:
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The following users liked this post:
jayyyw (06-21-2024)
06-22-2024, 06:18 AM
#567
A solid roller nitrous deal is helluva street car man. And from the little movement and driving i have done with mine. The "crispness" of the revs and response alone in a solid roller makes the switch worth it.
That being said, if your intent is stay on the street and keep doing half mile stuff, going turbo is the only way. especially if you are keeping a manual. spend the money/time on boost by gear and you will have a killer car. I had a boost leash 6spd boost by gear with CO2 setup on my TA and I LOVED it. Completely changed the car for the better once i put it all in because of how tunable it finally became. 4lbs in 1st gear, 24 in 4th gear. Even brake boosting, it had ZERO traction issues for a car that made just shy of 1000ftlbs before 4000rpm. The ramp rates per gear made it a breeze.
Lightweight supercharged cars are too much for the street in my opinion. More difficult power management and belts hate stick shift cars.
vette was a mid to high 130s car. My TA just started walking harder and harder each gear, loved it lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izsvd4sK7mQ
That being said, if your intent is stay on the street and keep doing half mile stuff, going turbo is the only way. especially if you are keeping a manual. spend the money/time on boost by gear and you will have a killer car. I had a boost leash 6spd boost by gear with CO2 setup on my TA and I LOVED it. Completely changed the car for the better once i put it all in because of how tunable it finally became. 4lbs in 1st gear, 24 in 4th gear. Even brake boosting, it had ZERO traction issues for a car that made just shy of 1000ftlbs before 4000rpm. The ramp rates per gear made it a breeze.
Lightweight supercharged cars are too much for the street in my opinion. More difficult power management and belts hate stick shift cars.
vette was a mid to high 130s car. My TA just started walking harder and harder each gear, loved it lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izsvd4sK7mQ
06-22-2024, 08:19 AM
#568
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
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06-26-2024, 10:12 PM
#569
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Scoop came in. Actually fit pretty good. Had to open one side just a TAD bit. Then make some cut outs for the linkage to go through.
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06-28-2024, 05:14 AM
#571
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Thread Starter
06-28-2024, 09:46 AM
#572
TECH Senior Member
One thing to consider, though; when you're easily winning the race, all they can see is your *** end!!
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06-29-2024, 12:27 PM
#574
TECH Senior Member
True dat... good results make a little ugly worthwhile! LOL!
07-01-2024, 09:25 AM
#575
TECH Senior Member
07-04-2024, 11:14 PM
#576
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Going to wait on the part out
Last edited by jayyyw; 07-11-2024 at 08:07 PM.
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07-11-2024, 07:06 AM
#577
Back in the NA game. Boost was fun but I wanted to do an NA build again.
I picked up a pretty clean, 38k mile JSB C6z and it came with the following.
Ported MSD intake by JokerZ ---
Spiral ported stock throttle body ---
Vararam Air Intake ---
PAC 1209x Valve Springs
Johnson 2110 lifters ---
ID1050X Injectors
DSX Flex Fuel Kit ---
Walbro 525 Hellcat Fuel Pump
Meziere Billet Mechanical Water Pump ---
Prospeed Coolant Fans
Dewitt's Radiator (Not Installed)
JS Alternator 250amp
Hinson Motor/Trans Mounts
Monster LT1-S Twin Disk Clutch with Lightened Flywheel
Mighty Mouse Race Catch Can ---
LME Ported Brodix BR7 Heads
Custom Camshaft (253/263 .666 111+5) ---
ATI Balancer
ARP Headstuds
Pfadt Tri-y Headers and Catted X Pipe ---
Akropovic Axle Back Exhaust ---
DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
RPM Stage 4 Diff with 3.90 Gears
MGW Shifter and Race ****
New OEM Yellow Calipers
SS Brake Lines
Performance AFX 2-Piece Rotors (Front/Rear)
Katech TI Lugnuts
Bilstein Shocks
The setup in the car made 644whp/602wtq. I only got to enjoy it for about 2 weeks before I started discovering/realizing it had some issues.
First thing I noticed, the valvetrain was LOUD and on cold starts I was getting some lifter knock. I discovered that the PAC springs that are
in the heads have way too much seat pressure for the lifters to hold. The Johnson lifters are rated to 420lb open pressure and the springs were
shimmed for something like 540lb open. Needless to say, the springs were collapsing the lifters over night and causing them to "bounce" around till
they pumped back up. Luckily this took less than a second to happen upon start up.
Second, after looking at the dyno sheet, I knew something was off. With this cam, power should have been peaking up around 65-6700rpm. Instead, it
was only peaking around 6100rpm. The rev limit was set to 7700rpm and I tried to make a pull up over 7000 and it just fell on its face. The lifters
were also collapsing up top and causing valve float (something I am very familiar with). I could feel this on the shift. It would hesitate real fast
before the power came back. This only happened at full throttle and/or a higher RPM shift.
So, rather than take my chances on the engine how it was set up, I decided to pull it apart and change it all, for the most part.
Here is a list of the changes happening. (The dashes in the original list indicate things I am changing or removing all together)
ARH 2" to 2-1/8" stepped headers with 3.5" collectors
Holley Hi Ram base with Shrear fabricated lid
A different, custom camshaft. Not able to share specs at this time. Just know its more duration, lift, and a wider LSA
Send heads to WCCH to mill further for more compression
Johnson ST2126LSR Lifters
Katech Red Pump
108mm Throttle Body
4.5" Air Intake with Halltech filter
Alky Control Meth Kit
Meziere Electric Water Pump
GZ Motorsports Vacuum Pump
Corsa Extreme Exhaust
My goal with this is to make as close to, or over 700whp. I'm guesstimating torque will fall in the 550-560wtq range. Decided not to go solid roller at this time. Possibly going to start building a second motor (very slowly) on the side that will get all the goodies.
Thoughts?
Suggestions?
I picked up a pretty clean, 38k mile JSB C6z and it came with the following.
Ported MSD intake by JokerZ ---
Spiral ported stock throttle body ---
Vararam Air Intake ---
PAC 1209x Valve Springs
Johnson 2110 lifters ---
ID1050X Injectors
DSX Flex Fuel Kit ---
Walbro 525 Hellcat Fuel Pump
Meziere Billet Mechanical Water Pump ---
Prospeed Coolant Fans
Dewitt's Radiator (Not Installed)
JS Alternator 250amp
Hinson Motor/Trans Mounts
Monster LT1-S Twin Disk Clutch with Lightened Flywheel
Mighty Mouse Race Catch Can ---
LME Ported Brodix BR7 Heads
Custom Camshaft (253/263 .666 111+5) ---
ATI Balancer
ARP Headstuds
Pfadt Tri-y Headers and Catted X Pipe ---
Akropovic Axle Back Exhaust ---
DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
RPM Stage 4 Diff with 3.90 Gears
MGW Shifter and Race ****
New OEM Yellow Calipers
SS Brake Lines
Performance AFX 2-Piece Rotors (Front/Rear)
Katech TI Lugnuts
Bilstein Shocks
The setup in the car made 644whp/602wtq. I only got to enjoy it for about 2 weeks before I started discovering/realizing it had some issues.
First thing I noticed, the valvetrain was LOUD and on cold starts I was getting some lifter knock. I discovered that the PAC springs that are
in the heads have way too much seat pressure for the lifters to hold. The Johnson lifters are rated to 420lb open pressure and the springs were
shimmed for something like 540lb open. Needless to say, the springs were collapsing the lifters over night and causing them to "bounce" around till
they pumped back up. Luckily this took less than a second to happen upon start up.
Second, after looking at the dyno sheet, I knew something was off. With this cam, power should have been peaking up around 65-6700rpm. Instead, it
was only peaking around 6100rpm. The rev limit was set to 7700rpm and I tried to make a pull up over 7000 and it just fell on its face. The lifters
were also collapsing up top and causing valve float (something I am very familiar with). I could feel this on the shift. It would hesitate real fast
before the power came back. This only happened at full throttle and/or a higher RPM shift.
So, rather than take my chances on the engine how it was set up, I decided to pull it apart and change it all, for the most part.
Here is a list of the changes happening. (The dashes in the original list indicate things I am changing or removing all together)
ARH 2" to 2-1/8" stepped headers with 3.5" collectors
Holley Hi Ram base with Shrear fabricated lid
A different, custom camshaft. Not able to share specs at this time. Just know its more duration, lift, and a wider LSA
Send heads to WCCH to mill further for more compression
Johnson ST2126LSR Lifters
Katech Red Pump
108mm Throttle Body
4.5" Air Intake with Halltech filter
Alky Control Meth Kit
Meziere Electric Water Pump
GZ Motorsports Vacuum Pump
Corsa Extreme Exhaust
My goal with this is to make as close to, or over 700whp. I'm guesstimating torque will fall in the 550-560wtq range. Decided not to go solid roller at this time. Possibly going to start building a second motor (very slowly) on the side that will get all the goodies.
Thoughts?
Suggestions?
07-11-2024, 07:06 AM
#578
Back in the NA game. Boost was fun but I wanted to do an NA build again.
I picked up a pretty clean, 38k mile JSB C6z and it came with the following.
Ported MSD intake by JokerZ ---
Spiral ported stock throttle body ---
Vararam Air Intake ---
PAC 1209x Valve Springs
Johnson 2110 lifters ---
ID1050X Injectors
DSX Flex Fuel Kit ---
Walbro 525 Hellcat Fuel Pump
Meziere Billet Mechanical Water Pump ---
Prospeed Coolant Fans
Dewitt's Radiator (Not Installed)
JS Alternator 250amp
Hinson Motor/Trans Mounts
Monster LT1-S Twin Disk Clutch with Lightened Flywheel
Mighty Mouse Race Catch Can ---
LME Ported Brodix BR7 Heads
Custom Camshaft (253/263 .666 111+5) ---
ATI Balancer
ARP Headstuds
Pfadt Tri-y Headers and Catted X Pipe ---
Akropovic Axle Back Exhaust ---
DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
RPM Stage 4 Diff with 3.90 Gears
MGW Shifter and Race ****
New OEM Yellow Calipers
SS Brake Lines
Performance AFX 2-Piece Rotors (Front/Rear)
Katech TI Lugnuts
Bilstein Shocks
The setup in the car made 644whp/602wtq. I only got to enjoy it for about 2 weeks before I started discovering/realizing it had some issues.
First thing I noticed, the valvetrain was LOUD and on cold starts I was getting some lifter knock. I discovered that the PAC springs that are
in the heads have way too much seat pressure for the lifters to hold. The Johnson lifters are rated to 420lb open pressure and the springs were
shimmed for something like 540lb open. Needless to say, the springs were collapsing the lifters over night and causing them to "bounce" around till
they pumped back up. Luckily this took less than a second to happen upon start up.
Second, after looking at the dyno sheet, I knew something was off. With this cam, power should have been peaking up around 65-6700rpm. Instead, it
was only peaking around 6100rpm. The rev limit was set to 7700rpm and I tried to make a pull up over 7000 and it just fell on its face. The lifters
were also collapsing up top and causing valve float (something I am very familiar with). I could feel this on the shift. It would hesitate real fast
before the power came back. This only happened at full throttle and/or a higher RPM shift.
So, rather than take my chances on the engine how it was set up, I decided to pull it apart and change it all, for the most part.
Here is a list of the changes happening. (The dashes in the original list indicate things I am changing or removing all together)
ARH 2" to 2-1/8" stepped headers with 3.5" collectors
Holley Hi Ram base with Shrear fabricated lid
A different, custom camshaft. Not able to share specs at this time. Just know its more duration, lift, and a wider LSA
Send heads to WCCH to mill further for more compression
Johnson ST2126LSR Lifters
Katech Red Pump
108mm Throttle Body
4.5" Air Intake with Halltech filter
Alky Control Meth Kit
Meziere Electric Water Pump
GZ Motorsports Vacuum Pump
Corsa Extreme Exhaust
My goal with this is to make as close to, or over 700whp. I'm guesstimating torque will fall in the 550-560wtq range. Decided not to go solid roller at this time. Possibly going to start building a second motor (very slowly) on the side that will get all the goodies.
Thoughts?
Suggestions?
I picked up a pretty clean, 38k mile JSB C6z and it came with the following.
Ported MSD intake by JokerZ ---
Spiral ported stock throttle body ---
Vararam Air Intake ---
PAC 1209x Valve Springs
Johnson 2110 lifters ---
ID1050X Injectors
DSX Flex Fuel Kit ---
Walbro 525 Hellcat Fuel Pump
Meziere Billet Mechanical Water Pump ---
Prospeed Coolant Fans
Dewitt's Radiator (Not Installed)
JS Alternator 250amp
Hinson Motor/Trans Mounts
Monster LT1-S Twin Disk Clutch with Lightened Flywheel
Mighty Mouse Race Catch Can ---
LME Ported Brodix BR7 Heads
Custom Camshaft (253/263 .666 111+5) ---
ATI Balancer
ARP Headstuds
Pfadt Tri-y Headers and Catted X Pipe ---
Akropovic Axle Back Exhaust ---
DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
RPM Stage 4 Diff with 3.90 Gears
MGW Shifter and Race ****
New OEM Yellow Calipers
SS Brake Lines
Performance AFX 2-Piece Rotors (Front/Rear)
Katech TI Lugnuts
Bilstein Shocks
The setup in the car made 644whp/602wtq. I only got to enjoy it for about 2 weeks before I started discovering/realizing it had some issues.
First thing I noticed, the valvetrain was LOUD and on cold starts I was getting some lifter knock. I discovered that the PAC springs that are
in the heads have way too much seat pressure for the lifters to hold. The Johnson lifters are rated to 420lb open pressure and the springs were
shimmed for something like 540lb open. Needless to say, the springs were collapsing the lifters over night and causing them to "bounce" around till
they pumped back up. Luckily this took less than a second to happen upon start up.
Second, after looking at the dyno sheet, I knew something was off. With this cam, power should have been peaking up around 65-6700rpm. Instead, it
was only peaking around 6100rpm. The rev limit was set to 7700rpm and I tried to make a pull up over 7000 and it just fell on its face. The lifters
were also collapsing up top and causing valve float (something I am very familiar with). I could feel this on the shift. It would hesitate real fast
before the power came back. This only happened at full throttle and/or a higher RPM shift.
So, rather than take my chances on the engine how it was set up, I decided to pull it apart and change it all, for the most part.
Here is a list of the changes happening. (The dashes in the original list indicate things I am changing or removing all together)
ARH 2" to 2-1/8" stepped headers with 3.5" collectors
Holley Hi Ram base with Shrear fabricated lid
A different, custom camshaft. Not able to share specs at this time. Just know its more duration, lift, and a wider LSA
Send heads to WCCH to mill further for more compression
Johnson ST2126LSR Lifters
Katech Red Pump
108mm Throttle Body
4.5" Air Intake with Halltech filter
Alky Control Meth Kit
Meziere Electric Water Pump
GZ Motorsports Vacuum Pump
Corsa Extreme Exhaust
My goal with this is to make as close to, or over 700whp. I'm guesstimating torque will fall in the 550-560wtq range. Decided not to go solid roller at this time. Possibly going to start building a second motor (very slowly) on the side that will get all the goodies.
Thoughts?
Suggestions?
07-11-2024, 09:08 AM
#579
TECH Senior Member
07-11-2024, 09:19 PM
#580
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
gonna hold off on the part out. trying to see what the car does with the little changes and on the nitrous.
The following 5 users liked this post by jayyyw:
Bob570 (07-13-2024), C5_Pete (07-12-2024), DualQuadDave (07-11-2024), LaBLKv6Z (07-12-2024), Ls1Rx-7 (07-12-2024)