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I’ve been trying to do some research for the perfect camshaft, so I’ve contacted every cam maker I can think of. Here is my email to them:
“I've got an '09 VE Calais (Australia’s version of a Pontiac G8), and I want it to be absolutely mental for the street (Midrange power)
It will be a long term project for me as I never plan on selling.
Current Car specs:
L76 6.0 (155,000kms)
Headers: Pacemaker Tri-Y 1-3/4
Exhaust: Pacemaker 2.5"
VCM OTR
Currently tuned to 243.7RWKW - 548NM - 5KN
Stock Diff: 2.97 Open (Happy to upgrade in future)
Stock Auto Trans: GM 6L80-E
Stock stall: 1500-1650rpm? (Happy to upgrade in future)
No boost in future plans.
My next step is a cam upgrade (with supporting mods/parts).
Do you have a specific cam in mind?
I'm not too fussed on lump / sound, I'm more driven towards performance.”
Below is the recommended list from everyone who has replied. I was hoping to get some commonalities, but they’re are all mostly different.
It is very confusing.
What should I look for when choosing the camshaft??
Look into the Summit "Ghost Cam" (222/234, .600/,575, 115+3)
Users report a surprising level of performance considering its specs.
Plus, Summit has great pricing, which should keep the final "imported" price a bit friendlier.
Good luck, mate! Cheers!
Did Crow give .006 specs? (277/284) doesn't look like a .050 spec for your engine. Probably something like ~227/234 at .050 which is roughly similar to what most of the other suggested.
Excluding Crow we have roughly an average of 228 intake duration @ .050
240 exhaust duration @ .050
112.5 LSA
228/240 112.5 LSA
Out of the suggestions, I like the Cam Motion recommended best 227/237 111 LSA best. It's pretty close to the aggregate average of what everyone suggested. Plus it's well proved.
With a 6L80 gear set with a 1st gear that is 4.03, I'd want to keep the 2.97 rear axle gear.
BTW - The the almost retro looking VMC 710 ~ 232/234 110 looks like a helluva a lot of fun with a good set of ported cathedral heads if one likes mid range & torque. Probably really fun in a stick car carving corners.
The Ghost Cam mentioned is probably a good safe choice. Most folks seem very happy overall with the performance and driveablity etc.
Did Crow give .006 specs? (277/284) doesn't look like a .050 spec for your engine. Probably something like ~227/234 at .050 which is roughly similar to what most of the other suggested.
thanks so much for your detailed reply!
it was very informative.
The crow cam was the adv. duration!
Real one here : .050” Duration: In: 226, Ex: 236
If you have time, could you explain what each of the specs mean?
How will lift affect the car?
how will intake and exhaust affect driving? Etc
The Crow cam has 5* of overlap and the BTR cam has 4.5* of overlap. With the larger intake valve in the rectangle port heads on a 4" bore, you want to pay attention to overlap because you are more susceptible to reversion. If I had to choose between those cams, it would be between the BTR or the Summit Ghost Cam. The Summit cam has much more favorable overlap for drivability and the BTR cam has more valve lift for more power potential. So, at that point, it would boil down to what you value more.
The Crow cam has 5* of overlap and the BTR cam has 4.5* of overlap. With the larger intake valve in the rectangle port heads on a 4" bore, you want to pay attention to overlap because you are more susceptible to reversion.
What exactly is reversion? And what am I looking for in order to prevent it?
Originally Posted by MuhThugga
Summit Ghost Cam.
Is that this one?
<!--td {border: 1px solid #cccccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}--> Summit Racing SUM-8715R1: 2,800-6,800 222/234 115 0.600/0.575
The summit-cam-timing-calculator comes in very useful when reading and studying the threads. This is great for calculating overlap and valve events.
Roughly here's my take in brief...
In general, increased intake duration makes it easier for an engine to breath and make power at higher rpm. Typically there's a trade off in the low end and middle range for top end as intake duration grows.
Higher lift of ~ .050 more is usually worth 6 to 12 whp if cam is otherwise the same. Stock rockers work optimally with cams of ~.551 lift. More lift than that the stock rocker rubs across the valve tip at higher lifts. This can be pretty minor with cams less than ~.600 to moderate under ~.630 lift to more severe as lift goes up. I like to stay under .625 lift personally for good durability. I've ran a .581 lift cam 130,000 miles and valve tips & stock rockers were OK. New springs, retainers as needed etc. Rocker stands were shimmed for best wipe pattern etc.
As overlap goes up, top end power goes up but driveablity drops. Overlap is when both intake and exhaust valves are open same time and duration and overlap. Negative to zero overlap drives like stock for the most part in my experience. Overlap up to ~5 or 6 isn't too annoying. It's noticeable but OK. Overlap of of ~13 is my personal max limit for a daily driver. Typically a little fussy under 1,500 rpm and on cold starts, have or may not give a little cam surge on occasion. Under 5 or 6 is usually a good spot for first cam in my opinion.
As others mentioned Ghost Cam is sweet. (-2 overlap, good manners)
The Cam Motion 227/237 on 111 has 10 degrees of overlap, you'll know there's a real performance cam in the car. Might also be worth asking Cam Motion if they offer a 227/237 on 113 for only 6 degrees overlap etc.
Overlap is when both the exhaust valve and intake valve are open at the same time. The more overlap, the more opportunity for reversion.
Originally Posted by Jeolefmo
Is that this one?
<!--td {border: 1px solid #cccccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}--> Summit Racing SUM-8715R1: 2,800-6,800 222/234 115 0.600/0.575
That's the one. It has -2° of overlap, meaning that the exhaust and intake valves are both closed for 2° of rotation. In other words, they aren't open together.
I've got a VE SS wagon over here in the UK, same engine I think, that's got the rec port heads on hasn't it? It's a heavy old thing, so I'd be cautious of going too choppy on the cam.
Of those listed, I like the BTR Red Hot to be honest, the 6L80 isn't going to be revving over 6,500 so I think you'll have a much more enjoyable street car with that cam, for me that's the only one that even vaguely says 'street'. It's going to have a bit of an idle to it, so if you want something a little stealthier and with a wider torque spread and better manners / fuel consumption, the Ghost Cam mentioned already would be a great bet too.
99 Black Bird T/A said it much more in depth than me
I'd be willing to bet the Ghost Cam would feel like the faster car 90% of the time, kind of like it drives now but more so, whereas the Red Hot would give you maybe a little more special top end but at the cost of a little punch down low.
Cam Motion spec'd a cam for my 65' Cutlass with an L96 (6.0L)
224/236 .595/.595 112 +3 (Makes my Cutlass a torque monster)
I installed the Summit Racing Stage 2 Pro LS Cam in the LS3 that I am fixing to install in my 73' F100
226/238 .600/.600 113+3
I also agree with G Atsma in that the Ghost Cam is an all-around great cam that many folks on here have had great success with. Plus, you can't beat the price.
I'm hoping to tear into an LS2 pretty soon. In addition to the bolt ons, I'm thinking it needs a 225/232 115+3 with lift a little over .600. The Summit ghost cam is so close and so inexpensive, I don't know if it's worth the extra coinage to go custom.
We like the SUM-8715R1 "Ghost cam" that others have already mentioned. If you wanted a smooth idling mild-mannered cam that makes respectable power it's a great option. It's been used in a variety of combos. Pair it with our .600" lift beehives and it will be happy out to 6,800+. As an upgrade we have the Trickflow .660" lift duals. A stock converter can be used but a 2,500+ is preferred.
Another option we could see working here is our SUM-8707R1 stage 2 cam. Specs on it are .600/.600, 226/238, 113+3 with 6* of overlap. It has similar valve events to the Cam Motion Hotrod LS cam but with a later IVO and less overlap. This creates a steadier idle and better manners. It will still have a steady lope but it's easy to tune and live with. Pair this with either of the spring packs above and it will be happy out to 7,000+. The 8707R1 is pretty much at the limit of the stock converter. You can get away with it but you'll get more out of the cam and better driveability with a 2,500+ converter.
Something else to consider since this is an L76 is it may have AFM. This needs to be deleted when going with any aftermarket non-AFM cam such as our Pro LS cams. We have a couple of combos available to delete AFM. CMB-09-0032for without PCV andCMB-09-0033for with PCV. As an FYI these kits include water wetter which we cannot ship Internationally. No worries, you can easily order individual items out of the combos from the kit/combo contents tab.
Let us know if we can be of any further assistance.
Submit racing,
When I questioned what converter to use with my LY6 /ghost cam/3:42s; I was told 3k for a stall.
why?
A 2,500+ converter is the general recommendation we go with for the Ghost cam. Like a cam recommendation, a converter recommendation depends on the combo and goals. We speak with many different folks a day and don't remember the particular discussion with you. If you'd like to discuss this further shoot us a PM and we'll be happy to discuss a converter for your combo and goals.
A 2,500+ converter is the general recommendation we go with for the Ghost cam. Like a cam recommendation, a converter recommendation depends on the combo and goals. We speak with many different folks a day and don't remember the particular discussion with you. If you'd like to discuss this further shoot us a PM and we'll be happy to discuss a converter for your combo and goals.
Can you please share your recommendation once you have discussed? We are working on a 6.2 for a 63 Impala with 3.50's and thinking the Ghost cam may be best with a near stock stall.
Not trying to hijack
Can you please share your recommendation once you have discussed? We are working on a 6.2 for a 63 Impala with 3.50's and thinking the Ghost cam may be best with a near stock stall.
Not trying to hijack
Shoot us a PM of the combo and goals. We'll be happy to discuss cam and torque converter recommendations.
A little bit of an update.
I'm booked in for my cam, supporting mods and head freshen up in December.
Currently choosing between what my shop has suggested: Crow Cams (227/244 114) and the BTR Red Hot cam (221/240 113) highly recommended by nufnuffz28 YouTube Channel
My shop has told me they are virtually the same cam (not sure about that), but I'd assume they know much more than I do.
Since my first post, I have added a new 3.27 LSD diff
L76 6.0 (159,000kms)
Headers: Pacemaker Tri-Y 1-3/4
Exhaust: Pacemaker 2.5"
VCM OTR
Currently tuned to 243.7RWKW - 548NM - 5KN (Pre new diff)
Stock Diff: 3.27 LSD NEW
Stock heads
Stock Auto Trans: GM 6L80-E
Stock stall: 1500-1650rpm? (Happy to upgrade in future)
I also took my car to the drags for a bit of fun, to test pre/post cam upgrade.
Here was my best run:
Essentially want my car for mostly street use, and a touch of dragging.
By virtually the same cam, they mean they are close enough in spec you wont easily notice the difference.
I think you should go with a higher stall. Like 3200rpm.
It will put the power of the cam right where the TC bites. Kind of like dropping the clutch at 3200rpm
But if you baby it off the line like granny, then it will slip like granny is driving. So best of both worlds. In fact you could have gone with a smaller cam and higher stall and got a better off idle driver imo.
Plus a smaller cam is easier to live with. Especially with a long term daily driver.
12-09-2022, 03:07 PM
Perfect L76 Holden Calais (Pointiac G8) Camshaft 
