Rod bolt torque seems off
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From: USA
Rod bolt torque seems off Or does it...
I found this.
Tried it this way for ease of installation but 48 ft pounds comes at 75 degrees.
This is a Gen 4 6.0 with the rod bolts that say 12.9 on them.
I know the spec is 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees.
This is the first problem, should I ignore the torque spec here and just go with 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees?
The second problem I have with this is I built a truck LS2 two years ago and just used 48 ft lbs as suggested here without checking degrees.
I guess I should just do it by the book? (15 ft lbs and 85 degrees) (I hate the internet sometimes)
I found this.
This is a Gen 4 6.0 with the rod bolts that say 12.9 on them.
I know the spec is 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees.
This is the first problem, should I ignore the torque spec here and just go with 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees?
The second problem I have with this is I built a truck LS2 two years ago and just used 48 ft lbs as suggested here without checking degrees.
I guess I should just do it by the book? (15 ft lbs and 85 degrees) (I hate the internet sometimes)
Or does it...
I found this.
Tried it this way for ease of installation but 48 ft pounds comes at 75 degrees.
This is a Gen 4 6.0 with the rod bolts that say 12.9 on them.
I know the spec is 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees.
This is the first problem, should I ignore the torque spec here and just go with 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees?
The second problem I have with this is I built a truck LS2 two years ago and just used 48 ft lbs as suggested here without checking degrees.
I guess I should just do it by the book? (15 ft lbs and 85 degrees) (I hate the internet sometimes)
I found this.
Tried it this way for ease of installation but 48 ft pounds comes at 75 degrees.
This is a Gen 4 6.0 with the rod bolts that say 12.9 on them.
I know the spec is 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees.
This is the first problem, should I ignore the torque spec here and just go with 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees?
The second problem I have with this is I built a truck LS2 two years ago and just used 48 ft lbs as suggested here without checking degrees.
I guess I should just do it by the book? (15 ft lbs and 85 degrees) (I hate the internet sometimes)
What lubricant are you using on the fasteners out of curiousity?
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 252
Likes: 84
From: USA
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 252
Likes: 84
From: USA
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 252
Likes: 84
From: USA
People do this all the time, I've done it before and never read the torque just did the 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees, that engine has seen a lot of rpm and runs great still.
Just curious whats going on to make you say that. Thanks.
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Whats your reasoning for saying that?
People do this all the time, I've done it before and never read the torque just did the 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees, that engine has seen a lot of rpm and runs great still.
Just curious whats going on to make you say that. Thanks.
People do this all the time, I've done it before and never read the torque just did the 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees, that engine has seen a lot of rpm and runs great still.
Just curious whats going on to make you say that. Thanks.
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Joined: May 2020
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From: USA
I'll say this, from personal experience building LS's I do not reuse main/rod/head bolts unless ARP or equivalent. I have used Snap-on digital torque angle wrenches that give you the end torque value and have seen dramatic loss of torque in multiple tightenings. Loss of torque=loss of clamping force. Yes, LOTS of guys have done it and survived, even made 1000+hp doing it, but after seeing what I have it's not worth the risk unless you have no money and no choice. Rod/main bolts are the most abused bolts in the motor. Why risk thousands for $100.
I've seen broken rods and bolts bent almost 90 degrees, never seen a broken bolt.
Or does it...
I found this.
Tried it this way for ease of installation but 48 ft pounds comes at 75 degrees.
This is a Gen 4 6.0 with the rod bolts that say 12.9 on them.
I know the spec is 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees.
This is the first problem, should I ignore the torque spec here and just go with 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees?
The second problem I have with this is I built a truck LS2 two years ago and just used 48 ft lbs as suggested here without checking degrees.
I guess I should just do it by the book? (15 ft lbs and 85 degrees) (I hate the internet sometimes)
I found this.
Tried it this way for ease of installation but 48 ft pounds comes at 75 degrees.
This is a Gen 4 6.0 with the rod bolts that say 12.9 on them.
I know the spec is 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees.
This is the first problem, should I ignore the torque spec here and just go with 15 ft lbs and 85 degrees?
The second problem I have with this is I built a truck LS2 two years ago and just used 48 ft lbs as suggested here without checking degrees.
I guess I should just do it by the book? (15 ft lbs and 85 degrees) (I hate the internet sometimes)
Your trying to do 2 things when torquing rod bolts,…applying enough torque to the fastener to properly stretch the rod bolt, and keeping the bore round. Too much torque or too little torque and both are going to be out of spec. This is why mock-up is important, not only for rods, but mains as well. Yet keep in mind the TTA fasteners are good for 3-4 torquings. New bolts are cheap thankfully.
That’s not accurate. Loss of torque at the same angle of rotation would more likely mean a loss in friction. That’s the whole point of a torque to angle fastener. It’s a more consistent way to stretch a fastener without the effect that friction has on torque values.
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 252
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From: USA
One problem is you don't understand what I typed. I didn't build THIS two years ago. As I said I built A truck LS2 two years ago and just torqued them to 48 ft lbs (yes, to answer your next question I went in three steps, not straight to 48) And I said I didn't check degrees.
Now I'm talking about something I'm building now and that I checked torque and degrees simultaneously. Clearly (to me) two different engines.
So, I guess don't listen to some random dude on the internet who gives half the procedure SEVERAL times but when questioned why it doesn't work gets all pissed off about it.
Now I'm talking about something I'm building now and that I checked torque and degrees simultaneously. Clearly (to me) two different engines.
So, I guess don't listen to some random dude on the internet who gives half the procedure SEVERAL times but when questioned why it doesn't work gets all pissed off about it.
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 252
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From: USA
Original bolts can be reused, wrong.
New bolts only, wrong.
Funny how we take pictures of everything these days and no one has a picture of a failed LS engine rod bolt. And no two people have a straight answer to this question.
One problem is you don't understand what I typed. I didn't build THIS two years ago. As I said I built A truck LS2 two years ago and just torqued them to 48 ft lbs (yes, to answer your next question I went in three steps, not straight to 48) And I said I didn't check degrees.
Now I'm talking about something I'm building now and that I checked torque and degrees simultaneously. Clearly (to me) two different engines.
So, I guess don't listen to some random dude on the internet who gives half the procedure SEVERAL times but when questioned why it doesn't work gets all pissed off about it.
Now I'm talking about something I'm building now and that I checked torque and degrees simultaneously. Clearly (to me) two different engines.
So, I guess don't listen to some random dude on the internet who gives half the procedure SEVERAL times but when questioned why it doesn't work gets all pissed off about it.
I completely understand here. You built an engine two years ago and used the 48 ft lb method. I asked you if it was running. Maybe I missed something?
Now here you are two years later wondering if you need to try another method. So I ask again…how does the other engine run 2 years later?
So I must ask why the 48 ft lb method doesn’t work? Your words, not mine. And I’m not “all pissed off about it”. You are wrong again sir.
Stay calm. People will take you more serious around here if you do.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 252
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From: USA
Lol. You always answer like this…as though your offended. Weird.
I completely understand here. You built an engine two years ago and used the 48 ft lb method. I asked you if it was running. Maybe I missed something?
Now here you are two years later wondering if you need to try another method. So I ask again…how does the other engine run 2 years later?
So I must ask why the 48 ft lb method doesn’t work? Your words, not mine. And I’m not “all pissed off about it”. You are wrong again sir.
Stay calm. People will take you more serious around here if you do.
I completely understand here. You built an engine two years ago and used the 48 ft lb method. I asked you if it was running. Maybe I missed something?
Now here you are two years later wondering if you need to try another method. So I ask again…how does the other engine run 2 years later?
So I must ask why the 48 ft lb method doesn’t work? Your words, not mine. And I’m not “all pissed off about it”. You are wrong again sir.
Stay calm. People will take you more serious around here if you do.
The 48 lbs method doesn't work because you should never reuse the bolts, so you should get new bolts and why wouldn't you tighten them as the service manual says, but new bolts are a waste of money, but ARP bolts may or may not distort the big end depend on how you tighten them, you could go 40 ft lbs three times as per ARP, but people recommend 45 lbs two times, But then again NEW OEM bolts can be torqued three times to set up bearing clearances -- end of sentence, everywhere. So what happens after that three torque downs, get new bolts. So if you stretched the bolt by using it too many times you will never reach the proper yield so the 48 lbs method seems to work as in the torque wrench clicks, the 15 lbs and 85 degrees seems to work because you can do it without the bolt breaking.
This pretty much is a brief summary of what I've read online, very brief summary. Want me to go on?
How do you know 48 ft lbs provides the proper clamping force, because it's a SnapOn wrench?
And everyone who reads this will take it the wrong way. I'm simply repeating what the internet said.
I ordered ARP bolts so I can read the manufacturers installation INSTRUCTIONS ---- Not the manufacturers opinions and observations based on how many years they've done it.
Seriously, go look it up on the internet. You will question how to wipe your *** when you're done. Maybe you've been doing it wrong all these years.
He's probably using a harbor freight torque wrench right. No.
Just remember you're all doing this properly even though you're all doing it 20 different ways.
Calm down, go smoke some refer or something. Quit blaming me for your problems. Or maybe lay off the refer.
The 48 lbs method doesn't work because you should never reuse the bolts, so you should get new bolts and why wouldn't you tighten them as the service manual says, but new bolts are a waste of money, but ARP bolts may or may not distort the big end depend on how you tighten them, you could go 40 ft lbs three times as per ARP, but people recommend 45 lbs two times, But then again NEW OEM bolts can be torqued three times to set up bearing clearances -- end of sentence, everywhere. So what happens after that three torque downs, get new bolts. So if you stretched the bolt by using it too many times you will never reach the proper yield so the 48 lbs method seems to work as in the torque wrench clicks, the 15 lbs and 85 degrees seems to work because you can do it without the bolt breaking.
This pretty much is a brief summary of what I've read online, very brief summary. Want me to go on?
How do you know 48 ft lbs provides the proper clamping force, because it's a SnapOn wrench?
And everyone who reads this will take it the wrong way. I'm simply repeating what the internet said.
I ordered ARP bolts so I can read the manufacturers installation INSTRUCTIONS ---- Not the manufacturers opinions and observations based on how many years they've done it.
Seriously, go look it up on the internet. You will question how to wipe your *** when you're done. Maybe you've been doing it wrong all these years.
He's probably using a harbor freight torque wrench right. No.
Just remember you're all doing this properly even though you're all doing it 20 different ways.
The 48 lbs method doesn't work because you should never reuse the bolts, so you should get new bolts and why wouldn't you tighten them as the service manual says, but new bolts are a waste of money, but ARP bolts may or may not distort the big end depend on how you tighten them, you could go 40 ft lbs three times as per ARP, but people recommend 45 lbs two times, But then again NEW OEM bolts can be torqued three times to set up bearing clearances -- end of sentence, everywhere. So what happens after that three torque downs, get new bolts. So if you stretched the bolt by using it too many times you will never reach the proper yield so the 48 lbs method seems to work as in the torque wrench clicks, the 15 lbs and 85 degrees seems to work because you can do it without the bolt breaking.
This pretty much is a brief summary of what I've read online, very brief summary. Want me to go on?
How do you know 48 ft lbs provides the proper clamping force, because it's a SnapOn wrench?
And everyone who reads this will take it the wrong way. I'm simply repeating what the internet said.
I ordered ARP bolts so I can read the manufacturers installation INSTRUCTIONS ---- Not the manufacturers opinions and observations based on how many years they've done it.
Seriously, go look it up on the internet. You will question how to wipe your *** when you're done. Maybe you've been doing it wrong all these years.
He's probably using a harbor freight torque wrench right. No.
Just remember you're all doing this properly even though you're all doing it 20 different ways.
