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It is too bad the design he chose has had issues. Because it has the potential, if engineered properly, to be better than the dog bone plastic piece. Because it actually tensions the chain, where the dog bone is more of a guide that keeps chain whipping to a minimum.
It is too bad the design he chose has had issues. Because it has the potential, if engineered properly, to be better than the dog bone plastic piece. Because it actually tensions the chain, where the dog bone is more of a guide that keeps chain whipping to a minimum.
Speaking of this, it’s also too bad that the aftermarket hasn’t come up with a better solution.
Speaking of this, it’s also too bad that the aftermarket hasn’t come up with a better solution.
Something in between the dogbone and the factory tensioner, possibly with only one moving part, might be a better mousetrap.
But to be honest, a bit of slack REALLY isn't an issue that the dogbone can't stabilize.
You don't hear about any issues along these lines, unless the owner is a little OCD....
While it would be nice to see the tensioner part improved on (I'd rather have one also), look at just how many issues all manufactures of factory quality parts have with leaf spring tensioner applications failing early. All sorts of timing chain guide material issues, but the one thing I've never seen failed is the cheap plastic block that just sits there lol. Plenty of high miles cars/truck running around with nothing in between also.
Hi gents,
I ran into a slight issue, I checked piston to valve clearance today and it’s WAY too tight for my liking. It was almost an afterthought, I’m not running a very big cam and my heads just had a .007 cleanup pass at the machine shop. so I didn’t think it would be close, but this is why we check. Using a dial indicator, my intake PTV is .030 which is obviously too tight. But the exhaust never gets tighter than .190.
my cam is a summit racing 8713r1. .550/.550 lift, 222/232 duration, 112 lobe separation. +5 advance. What do you think? The extra exhaust PTV clearance tells me that the cam has too much advance for my setup. My first reaction is to get an adjustable timing set and retarding the cam timing 2 or 4 degrees. I currently have a stock non adjustable timing set installed dot to dot.
I'd probably adjust it with that much on the exhaust. At this pint maybe check degree to make sure dot to dot was on point and try 2 degrees retarded etc.
I still need to buy a degree wheel so I can degree the cam and figure out what exactly is going on. I’ve always been the type that just installs a cam and installs it dot to dot. And if PTV is ok, I send it. But I ended up retarding the cam timing 6 degrees, that gave me .085 PTV intake and .150 ish exhaust. I’m thinking that the root cause of my problem is that the intake opening events happen relatively early on this cam. @.050, the intake valve opens 4 degrees btdc and closes 38 degrees atdc
Hi everyone, I just wanted to update my thread. The 6.2 I rebuilt is in the car and running, the swap isn’t completely done but I’m almost there. The engine seems really healthy and it started right up and maintains good oil pressure when hot. Thanks for your help!
The aces tbi efi (killshot) is a way better design than the sniper in my opinion…basically because the ecu is mounted remotely and not in the throttle body atop a hot vibrating motor….i have mine mounted in the glove box…..but yea rock yor carb for awhile untill it starts acting funny….then make the move to efi
Nice job….. now you should look into an ACES killshot TBI efi setup…i put one on my sons mustang and it made a night and day diffrence
headers are the unbranded 1-7/8 67 Camaro LS swap headers on eBay. $220 and they fit great. I’m almost positive that they are speed engineering’s camaro swap headers, just without the speed engineering brand. Transmission is a Tremec tkx 5 speed with an old school Lakewood bell housing. I’ve had that trans for a few years, it’s a great unit
ebay Headers,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175905333941
Last edited by mikesimpalass; 01-06-2024 at 07:34 AM.