L99 Connecting Rod Bearing
2-3 month already I have knocking sound coming under the engine. At first I thought that the sound was coming from the lifters, but I went under the car and realized that it was coming from below.
This sound is not so loud and metal, but thud. Increasing RPM making increasing sound speed too ))
My diagnostic technician suggested that this looks like to the connection rod bearing sound.
Here are my questions ))
1) Can I replace rod bearings by removing oil pan ? Or engine removal is mandatory ?
2) Is it neccecary to replace Crankshaft Main Bearings ?
3) Can I use the STANDARD size of the connecting rod bearings or crankshaft need to be measured ?
-If I CAN'T use the standard size, what is the reference readings for the L99 crankshaft ? As I know, there must be a table with bearing sizes depending on crankshaft wear...
-If I CAN use the standard size, could you please advise, is this bearing set is good enough "MAHLE / CLEVITE CB663P8 P Series (Tri-Metal)" or "GM 89017573" is preferable ?
2-3 month already I have knocking sound coming under the engine. At first I thought that the sound was coming from the lifters, but I went under the car and realized that it was coming from below.
This sound is not so loud and metal, but thud. Increasing RPM making increasing sound speed too ))
My diagnostic technician suggested that this looks like to the connection rod bearing sound.
Here are my questions ))
1) Can I replace rod bearings by removing oil pan ? Or engine removal is mandatory ?
2) Is it neccecary to replace Crankshaft Main Bearings ?
3) Can I use the STANDARD size of the connecting rod bearings or crankshaft need to be measured ?
-If I CAN'T use the standard size, what is the reference readings for the L99 crankshaft ? As I know, there must be a table with bearing sizes depending on crankshaft wear...
-If I CAN use the standard size, could you please advise, is this bearing set is good enough "MAHLE / CLEVITE CB663P8 P Series (Tri-Metal)" or "GM 89017573" is preferable ?
THIS is why a teardown is totally needed.
I've seen videos of people replacing one rod bearing with engine still in the vehicle. It seems very awkward to do though. That would be more like a bandaid solution. Crank bearings you definitely need to pull the engine.
Video made up from the several fragments:
-210F, idle, 20 psi oil pressure;
-1200 - 1500 RPM;
-The same idle from behind the left wheel;
-Gauges readings after fully heat-up (OIL TEMP UBNORMAL HIGH??);
-250F, idle, 14 psi oil pressure.
While driving from 30 mph and up oil pressure is 30+ psi.
Oil filter (ACDELCO UPF48R) was cutted and found no metal signs.
I've seen videos of people replacing one rod bearing with engine still in the vehicle. It seems very awkward to do though. That would be more like a bandaid solution. Crank bearings you definitely need to pull the engine.
Trending Topics
IF the filter looks good, then I would pull the belt and swap the oil pressure sending unit and see what you have. It doesn't sound too bad to me, I'd say it's more of a lifter issue, but again if it's making metal, it doesn't matter where it is coming from, it needs to be fixed.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
IF the filter looks good, then I would pull the belt and swap the oil pressure sending unit and see what you have. It doesn't sound too bad to me, I'd say it's more of a lifter issue, but again if it's making metal, it doesn't matter where it is coming from, it needs to be fixed.
6 moth ago I pulled heads and cleaned lifters, please see attached. They all found good but after assembling engine in 2-3 weeks these "clicks" are came on.
Some of them had small scratches, but they can not be felt with a fingernail, normal wear and tear.
Lifters (Jan, 2023)









