Home built 416
#1
Home built 416
Starting this thread here as I'm going to have a alot of question and need some fellow tech members input as I go.
Went with ARP main studs this time around. Yes machine shop align honed the block with the new studs.
Got the block back from machine shop and it was decked, honed to 4.070 and mains align honed.
K1 crank with king main bearings. Main bearing clearances are between. 0020-.0021. Little loose but i think id rather have lower oil pressure than having a chance of oil break down and grabbing a bearing and spinning.
Wiseco -8cc pistons where selected to help keep compression under control with the 61cc heads.
Piston specs
Went with ARP main studs this time around. Yes machine shop align honed the block with the new studs.
Got the block back from machine shop and it was decked, honed to 4.070 and mains align honed.
K1 crank with king main bearings. Main bearing clearances are between. 0020-.0021. Little loose but i think id rather have lower oil pressure than having a chance of oil break down and grabbing a bearing and spinning.
Wiseco -8cc pistons where selected to help keep compression under control with the 61cc heads.
Piston specs
#2
Rod bearings are coming out to .0020-.0021. Im thinking about swaping to a different bearing. These are king xp. I think I need .0025 rod bearing clearance. Its a street strip car that has a loose converter and will live between 6000-7000 rpms at WOT for 9-10 sec at a time. (hard on bearings)
#7
Trending Topics
#8
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Oil clearances are set up based on power level/usage. What kind of power is this engine gonna make?
#9
#10
Could always run a thicker oil if you're not liking the pressure you are seeing. I believe my engine is setup just a tad looser than that. I run 20-50 VR1. Also, my rings are gapped slightly wider because I had planned to spray nitrous with my build. Still made pretty great power, NA.
#11
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Anything north of 600, I like to see .0025 mains and rods, even with aluminum block builds. I’ve seen .0045 on extreme duty endurance builds. I think you’ll be ok here as it’s a street/strip build. Make sure you open up your thrust to ,007-.008. That converter will balloon and you’ll need more thrust clearance. I’ve personally gone as big as .010 on thrust for auto builds with loose converters. At your final assembly, cleanliness is absolutely a must. Wash all your parts 2-3 times. You can not get them clean enough.
#12
Anything north of 600, I like to see .0025 mains and rods, even with aluminum block builds. I’ve seen .0045 on extreme duty endurance builds. I think you’ll be ok here as it’s a street/strip build. Make sure you open up your thrust to ,007-.008. That converter will balloon and you’ll need more thrust clearance. I’ve personally gone as big as .010 on thrust for auto builds with loose converters. At your final assembly, cleanliness is absolutely a must. Wash all your parts 2-3 times. You can not get them clean enough.
#14
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
But for 99.9% of LS builds, simply opening up the oil grooves with a fine round file after setting up the thrust clearance is plenty, as long as it has enough oil pump and viscosity is correct.
The following users liked this post:
jayyyw (01-20-2024)
#15
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
That is a good suggestion, Scott, about pressure feeding the thrust. I know Kurt Urban also does that for certain apps. But you guys know where to drill. IIRC, theres a jig offered by some vendors to do what you're saying. I'd probably recommend most home garage mechanics not try it without that fixture. A .028" drill is mighty small, and easy to break off. Assuming a larger diameter is drilled in the saddle itself, maybe 3/32"-1/8"?
#16
Anything north of 600, I like to see .0025 mains and rods, even with aluminum block builds. I’ve seen .0045 on extreme duty endurance builds. I think you’ll be ok here as it’s a street/strip build. Make sure you open up your thrust to ,007-.008. That converter will balloon and you’ll need more thrust clearance. I’ve personally gone as big as .010 on thrust for auto builds with loose converters. At your final assembly, cleanliness is absolutely a must. Wash all your parts 2-3 times. You can not get them clean enough.
Crank tapped forward with dead blow hammer and zeroed out on dial indicator.
Pushed back with small screw driver looks like .007. I think thats pretty good.
The following users liked this post:
Che70velle (01-20-2024)
#18
Question.....I installed #1 piston and rotated the crank over expecting for the rod bolts to hit the bottom of the cylinders. It had a ton of clearance....is that normal????
also have some x bearings coming for the rods to try and get that clearance opened up closer to .0025
also have some x bearings coming for the rods to try and get that clearance opened up closer to .0025
#19
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (50)
Question.....I installed #1 piston and rotated the crank over expecting for the rod bolts to hit the bottom of the cylinders. It had a ton of clearance....is that normal????
also have some x bearings coming for the rods to try and get that clearance opened up closer to .0025
also have some x bearings coming for the rods to try and get that clearance opened up closer to .0025
#20
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
That is a good suggestion, Scott, about pressure feeding the thrust. I know Kurt Urban also does that for certain apps. But you guys know where to drill. IIRC, theres a jig offered by some vendors to do what you're saying. I'd probably recommend most home garage mechanics not try it without that fixture. A .028" drill is mighty small, and easy to break off. Assuming a larger diameter is drilled in the saddle itself, maybe 3/32"-1/8"?