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Yeah I believe that one only works on heads where the rocker arm pedestal stand can be removed. On LS7 heads the pedestals are part of the cylinder head casting.
From what I've heard, you're going to need a tool specific to the LS7 style head. I've tried similar tools and it just doesn't work because of the valve angle. It ends up binding and side loading the **** out of the valve, I ended up just doing them with the heads off the engine. If I remember correctly, LSM makes one that's good for LS7s but they're like $250 or so. Better that than bending a valve though.
From what I've heard, you're going to need a tool specific to the LS7 style head. I've tried similar tools and it just doesn't work because of the valve angle. It ends up binding and side loading the **** out of the valve, I ended up just doing them with the heads off the engine. If I remember correctly, LSM makes one that's good for LS7s but they're like $250 or so. Better that than bending a valve though.
Yes sir, I have the LSM Racing dual valve spring compressor and its worked on all the GM production heads but it does not sit on the Brodix head properly. It utilizes a stud that pivots to get the correct 12° or 15° angle needed but the problem with it is that the valve cover boss on the Brodix head is a little larger and you can get the tool to somewhat sit on that boss and the bolt holes for the plate line up horizontally but vertically its off about an 1/8" or less. If the mounting plate was taller or the sides of the rounded portion of the tool that sits on the valve cover bolt boss was machined away it would probably work. I've reached out to LSM and I'm waiting on their response.
Yes sir, I have the LSM Racing dual valve spring compressor and its worked on all the GM production heads but it does not sit on the Brodix head properly. It utilizes a stud that pivots to get the correct 12° or 15° angle needed but the problem with it is that the valve cover boss on the Brodix head is a little larger and you can get the tool to somewhat sit on that boss and the bolt holes for the plate line up horizontally but vertically its off about an 1/8" or less. If the mounting plate was taller or the sides of the rounded portion of the tool that sits on the valve cover bolt boss was machined away it would probably work. I've reached out to LSM and I'm waiting on their response.
Interesting. Make sure to post up what you hear, I'm likely going to be running a set of BR7s on my car soon too, so I'd like to know if you find a solution.
The first picture is the Brodix BR7 head and the second picture is an LS3 head. The problem I'm seeing is the tool does not fit onto the valve cover center bolt boss and line up with the bolt holes correctly. You can get it on there but then the bolt holes on the tool only captures the bottom half of the threaded holes for the rocker arms. As you can see the tool is stepped for the bosses and it may be by design because it works on the LS1, LS3 and LS7 heads so I'm not sure if I can machine it to fit these heads and still be able to use it on the others but I'm thinking it's doable but before I go to cutting I went ahead and ordered the Proform 67603 from Summit. It has terrible reviews on Summit and JEGS websites but I'm hopeful it works and if not it's getting a bad one from me.
I have the ones from TSP. Stick the ratchet in the side and pull it down to compress the springs.
Do you have a 4th Gen car and used that tool to replace the valvesprings? Cylinder heads on a work bench or engine stand might be doable but having to compress the spring with one hand and insert the keepers in another all while being bent over the fender trying to get at the rear cylinders might be a different story. The one from Proform should arrive today and fingers crossed it does the job. Still waiting to hear back from LSM about their tool.
Do you have a 4th Gen car and used that tool to replace the valvesprings? Cylinder heads on a work bench or engine stand might be doable but having to compress the spring with one hand and insert the keepers in another all while being bent over the fender trying to get at the rear cylinders might be a different story. The one from Proform should arrive today and fingers crossed it does the job. Still waiting to hear back from LSM about their tool.
I don't have a 4th gen but I was able to do it with the heads installed on my C6. Granted, there's more room, but should still be doable. My springs are 700lbs open pressure. Wasn't any easier doing it with the heads off the car.
From the pictures can you see anything that might be telling? The plate that goes over the retainer can be slid down to center it over the retainers but the sleeve in the plate would not be centered with the ball on the end of the bolt or stud that's used to compress the springs. Plus the angle of the threaded bolt is wrong by about 3°...Hmmm
When you start to compress the valve springs with the Proform tool you can see the inside of the retainers moving before the outsides do and as you compress the springs it puts additonal pressure on the exhaust side of the valve stems making it very difficult to remove both keepers. They claim it's universal and works on LS7 heads and maybe so but not on these Brodix heads. I also have the valve spring compressor tool from Texas Speed and compressing the springs while trying to install the keepers aint happening in a 4th Gen car. I'm just going to get my hands on some 3/8" flat bar and try to make something that will work myself. Something in the shape of a T that has a stud that comes up between the valve springs at the correct angle and utilize both rocker arm bolt holes and the center bolt valve cover boss. The end of the stud will screw down until it rests on the cylinder head to give it added stability.
Might be a hassle… but anytime I have a big job to to do In the engine bay of a 4th gen, I will usually remove the radiator and fans. Then I’ll get the front end of the car high enough for me to crawl under and then I will literally stand in the engine bay so my work is right in front of me.
Helps to have a “helper” fetch tools so you don’t have to crawl back out.
A little more work upfront but it makes the job a little easier then bending over and killing your back.
You know I never thought about removing the radiator and fans. I may give that a try thanks. One thing I cannot stand working on is my trucks, the 1500 is not too awful bad but the 2500 sucks. Too high up and at 5'10" I can't reach over the fenders to work on the engine.
Can I see your entire underhood setup is it really that tight?! That fuel rail pressure gauge on the rail is damn sexy haha I want one now.
My engine needs a rebuild so no rope stuffing for me, I get to do it the "funner" way...
Originally Posted by JacobChevys
Might be a hassle… but anytime I have a big job to to do In the engine bay of a 4th gen, I will usually remove the radiator and fans. Then I’ll get the front end of the car high enough for me to crawl under and then I will literally stand in the engine bay so my work is right in front of me.
Helps to have a “helper” fetch tools so you don’t have to crawl back out.
A little more work upfront but it makes the job a little easier then bending over and killing your back.
Thank you for saving me alot of coming pain with my truck. Forgot I can get in there by just taking out the fans X.x
[QUOTE=Guy with a Chevy;20570434]Can I see your entire underhood setup is it really that tight?! That fuel rail pressure gauge on the rail is damn sexy haha I want one now.
My engine needs a rebuild so no rope stuffing for me, I get to do it the "funner" way...
Yeah my 03 pickup has over 363K miles and I'm pulling that engine in the fall. It's pretty cramed in there with the back two cylinders tucked up underneath the windshield cowl.
Here's some pictures and a close up of the FP gauge. Just remove the schrader valve from the fuel line and install.
You know I never thought about removing the radiator and fans. I may give that a try thanks. One thing I cannot stand working on is my trucks, the 1500 is not too awful bad but the 2500 sucks. Too high up and at 5'10" I can't reach over the fenders to work on the engine.
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