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Interesting. Make sure to post up what you hear, I'm likely going to be running a set of BR7s on my car soon too, so I'd like to know if you find a solution.
Okay I spoke with Tim at LSM and he suggested that I try and utilize the extender that came with the tool which will raise it up some and to make a spacer to sit on the rocker arm pedestals and see if that will work. We also talked about this tool but he wasn't real sure if it would work under the cowl of a 4th Gen Fbody.
I like the idea of that second tool, but I'm not seeing how it would bolt on to the head, wouldn't you need a head without rocker pedestals cast into it?
I like the idea of that second tool, but I'm not seeing how it would bolt on to the head, wouldn't you need a head without rocker pedestals cast into it?
Just an FYI the LSM Racing SC-125 wil work with the exception of the back two cylinders on 4th Gen F-bodies due to the windshield cowl. LSM SC-167 does not fit onto the Brodix BR7 heads due to interference with the tool and the centerbolt valve cover bosses. You could grind on the bosses or grind on the tool in order for it sit flush on the boss but I spoke with Logan at LSM and he suggested using some washers or a spacer between the tool to raise it up just enough so it would not interfere with the boss and then use their extender which I do have. I decided to try the CompCams or the Powerhouse POW352001 valve spring compressor tool and it actually does work on the BR7 heads.
2 down and 14 to go..
Last edited by 01CamaroSSTx; Oct 17, 2025 at 05:46 PM.
I noticed the inner spring can easily be revoved from one of the used springs. Is that normal? It was the exhaust valve spring and the spring I removed from the intake valve did not do this.
I noticed the inner spring can easily be revoved from one of the used springs. Is that normal? It was the exhaust valve spring and the spring I removed from the intake valve did not do this.
Some sets do that after some use and some don’t. Normal…
What rocker setup is that your running?
Ive replaced valvesprings a few times with engine in the car. Pretty easy as long as you have a quality dual spring compressor like the one from comp cams and also use a compression testing end and hook it to your compressure to hold the valves up for that cylinder.
When it comes to doing the maintenance on valvetrain it takes a speical kind of mechanic that will work under the hoods of the 4th Gen F-body cars. Those that own the car who does the work themselves and those that will frown on the car owners that don't. I can see where a mechanic would charge a lot of money for doing this and rightfully so, but they still will not be happy with you for having them do it.
This is my first time doing this while the engine is in the car but I'll just say that it sucks! CompCams valve spring compressor tool has been doing the job and I've managed to get 1,3 & 5 cylinders done so far but I did run into an issue with getting the keepers back in on the No. 5 exhaust valve due to the retainer being pushed over to one side so I backed it off and repositioned the valve spring and tried again but again the valve not quite centered in the retainer so with some gentle use of a prybar against the tools plate I was able to push the spring and retainer just enough to get the keepers into the retainer.
I'm really dreading those back two cylinders and here of late I've been really contemplating on selling the 01 SS and looking for a nice low mileage C6 ZR1.
I feel your pain,(last weekend )I can’t imagine getting to #7 and 8 in a 01 Camaro .it’s bad enough on a C6 .installed a new set Pac 1237x after breaking one
When it comes to doing the maintenance on valvetrain it takes a speical kind of mechanic that will work under the hoods of the 4th Gen F-body cars. Those that own the car who does the work themselves and those that will frown on the car owners that don't. I can see where a mechanic would charge a lot of money for doing this and rightfully so, but they still will not be happy with you for having them do it.
This is my first time doing this while the engine is in the car but I'll just say that it sucks! CompCams valve spring compressor tool has been doing the job and I've managed to get 1,3 & 5 cylinders done so far but I did run into an issue with getting the keepers back in on the No. 5 exhaust valve due to the retainer being pushed over to one side so I backed it off and repositioned the valve spring and tried again but again the valve not quite centered in the retainer so with some gentle use of a prybar against the tools plate I was able to push the spring and retainer just enough to get the keepers into the retainer.
I'm really dreading those back two cylinders and here of late I've been really contemplating on selling the 01 SS and looking for a nice low mileage C6 ZR1.
I readily admit I haven't seen the underside of the Gen IV or GenV Camaro's. That said, on my 2000 C5, you can CAREFULLY support the front cradle and lower the engine/cradle/suspension 2 or 3 inches, maybe 4". There's enough "flex" or a bit of "slop" to do this without damaging anything. I've done this several times to more easily access the bolts that bolt the torque tube/trans to the block. Might help with accessing the rearmost springs IF IT IS SAFELY DONE. It works for me and my C5.....
No time to work on the car during the week but when I do I'll be going straight to No. 8 and getting it out of the way. I can't see air being safer than the rope method. Everything is being done with hand tools and as long as the cylinder you're working on is @ TDC on the compression stroke I should be fine right? What are the pitfalls of using the rope method?
Rope method is fail safe. Just use clean nylon “para” style…military rope. Stuff 18-20” in the spark plug hole while remotely close to TDC and it works well. Air is ok in the shop and if you’re in no hurry. Just make sure you’ve got some form of gauge on the inlet nozzle, and keep it below 30-40 psi. I’ve seen headgaskets get hurt…basically head lifted….by guys using too much air pressure while piston is at BDC. If piston isn’t at BDC while using air, it will be pretty quick once you put too much pressure in the cylinder. Then your pressure goes to nothing, and the valves have nothing holding them back from falling, other than the seal friction. We always used rope at the track while changing stuff in a hurry.
Managed to get 8 & 6 done this evening so all downhill from here on out. Still need to re-check preload on the lifters, remove the fuel line so I can re-check the torque specs on the intake and finally a compression test prior to installing the plugs. Also the jam nuts are making some contact in the corners of the new covers so will need to do some clearance work there.
Valve spring replacement completed but I did have an oh _ moment last night when I forgot to remove the rope from No.7 as I was bumping the motor over with the remote start switch and watching No. 8. I had only bumped it over a few times before realizing what I had just done.. I put my ratchet onto the balancer and backed it back down the hole and got the rope out then dropped a bore scope in there for a look but didn't see any visual damage so I may have dodged a goof up there. Hopefully the compression checks out and I can move onto startup.
this just makes it more apparent if i have to do springs in my bird i dropping the engine and trans out the bottom . the 2 hours to get it them out on the lift would make this just so much easier.
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I put my ratchet onto the balancer and backed it back down the hole and got the rope out then dropped a bore scope in there for a look but didn't see any visual damage so I may have dodged a goof up there. Hopefully the compression checks out and I can move onto startup. 