Valvespring replacement
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 2,283
From: Conroe, Texas
Compression test results
No.7 230 psi
No.5 215 psi
I had to break away but apparently no harm was done. I don't believe the starter would've been able to roll the engine over anyways and valve spring swaps were done with the cylinders on the compression stroke. Going to check the rest of the cylinders compression readings and see what they say. If I had to put a timeline on this it was maybe 1.5-2 hrs per cylinder for a newbie using the rope method.
Would I do it again? Yes.
The Comp Cams valve spring compressor tool gets an A+ rating in my book.
No.7 230 psi
No.5 215 psi
I had to break away but apparently no harm was done. I don't believe the starter would've been able to roll the engine over anyways and valve spring swaps were done with the cylinders on the compression stroke. Going to check the rest of the cylinders compression readings and see what they say. If I had to put a timeline on this it was maybe 1.5-2 hrs per cylinder for a newbie using the rope method.
Would I do it again? Yes.
The Comp Cams valve spring compressor tool gets an A+ rating in my book.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 2,283
From: Conroe, Texas
I will try using air next time. I'll just bring the cylinder up to TDC and before putting air to it I'll put the car in a gear with the emergency brake on and the tires blocked off. No worries about the piston being pushed back down the hole this way. Thinking 30-40 psi should be enough without hurting anything.
Yeah, with a 6 speed manual you can put it in 6th and the piston won't move, for sure. Not so on a A4. Blow your line out for 15-20 seconds before you do this. It should clear any crap outta the line. Whenever you take a plug out you always run the risk of foreign matter entering the cylinder, with a rope, air, or even just changing/reading plugs. I blow compressed air all around my spark plugs before I remove any of them. Probably TOO picky......
BTW.....Earlier in the thread you mentioned putting the car in FIRST gear. I think you meant 6th gear, but IDK. I know you know the engine has to work harder to turn against 6th (OD), so thats why I assume you meant 6th. That or the dreaded spell correct/check screwed up another post!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 5,987
Likes: 2,283
From: Conroe, Texas
Agreed, being in a higher gear would be harder for the car to move should the piston get pushed down the bore. Not sure 30-40 psi is strong enough to overcome being in gear and the ebrake on. Luckily for me I don't have to worry about doing it again for awhile. I did use new rope when I swapped springs and I too blow compressed air around the spark plugs and valve covers to remove as much dirt/dust or grime before removing anything. Gravel driveway here and I also have horses and with little rainfall lately it gets dusty here.
Agreed, being in a higher gear would be harder for the car to move should the piston get pushed down the bore. Not sure 30-40 psi is strong enough to overcome being in gear and the ebrake on. Luckily for me I don't have to worry about doing it again for awhile. I did use new rope when I swapped springs and I too blow compressed air around the spark plugs and valve covers to remove as much dirt/dust or grime before removing anything. Gravel driveway here and I also have horses and with little rainfall lately it gets dusty here.
Resurrecting this to help save others from buying 5 different tools as well - doing valve springs on a set of fancy heads while in the car really limits what tools work. I landed on something similar to OP.
LS2-ish engine with square port MAST Heads on an Fbody - doing spring swap in the car (ie. working under the cowl). The MAST heads are 12 deg, have a high perimeter and machined in dowels, supports/etc... that get in the way.
Front 12 springs done with a LSM Racing SC-125 (this is also what I use when heads are out of the car)
Back 8 springs done with PowerHouse POW352001 (only thing that cleared the cowl and could be put on with the right angle). Use the long bolts.
LS2-ish engine with square port MAST Heads on an Fbody - doing spring swap in the car (ie. working under the cowl). The MAST heads are 12 deg, have a high perimeter and machined in dowels, supports/etc... that get in the way.
Front 12 springs done with a LSM Racing SC-125 (this is also what I use when heads are out of the car)
Back 8 springs done with PowerHouse POW352001 (only thing that cleared the cowl and could be put on with the right angle). Use the long bolts.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote