&%#$/<&%#Damn cam retainer plate screws......
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Jimbo1367 (07-27-2024)
#22
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I was cleaning bolts on a current LS3 build today, and I found these in the bolt box. Thought it was worth posting for a laugh…
#23
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#24
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Having to go to such lengths just to remove a bolt which has minimal torque. I installed a retainer plate which has those allen head bolts and hopefully when the time comes to remove it I don't have this problem but if I do I now know a solution..Geez
#25
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I had some allen head flat head screws in it the last time. I actually broke a Craftsman 4mm (?) 3/8 drive tip trying to remove one of them. I ground the driver tip flat again, used my acetylene torch and they came right out. These Torx heads are worse than allens, in my opinion. But I think I need a new tip for the torch....
#27
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Guys, it's really not that difficult. The tapered heads are the best way to secure a machine bolt as well as keeping if flush for clearance purposes. It takes nothing more than a tap to break them loose. Use the correct size torx socket and give a tap or 2 on the head of the ratchet as your loosening. (Lefty-loosey). If that doesn't work, then the impact driver will. I've done hundreds of these and never, ever had to resort to heat.
Though a few were so stripped out from previous idiots, I did have to drill the head off then remove with my stud remover.I have 3/8 and a 1/4 dr versions. Keep in mind, the springs in them don't like heat. So make sure you can immediately remove the broken stud as soon as it's out if you heated it.You can hammer on these all day long with an impact.
Though a few were so stripped out from previous idiots, I did have to drill the head off then remove with my stud remover.I have 3/8 and a 1/4 dr versions. Keep in mind, the springs in them don't like heat. So make sure you can immediately remove the broken stud as soon as it's out if you heated it.You can hammer on these all day long with an impact.
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01CamaroSSTx (07-27-2024), Ls7colorado (07-31-2024)
#28
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Do yourself a favor and make the next one the old style without the countersunk holes. Mahle B31822 is the part number I used on my LS7, I got it from Rock Auto. I think you may need the ARP cam plate bolt kit to make sure there is enough clearance to the new style cam gear if I remember correctly.
I agree, I went with the Mahle B31822 retainer plate and ARP Bolts for this exact reason. Highly recommend if it clears your timing set
#29
Launching!
I usually drill the heads out but have been having good luck with a cheap Hammer screwdriver I got on Amazon. Alot of the work I get requires putting the vvt phaser back on so I like to recover them when possible
#30
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Well, guys-Please wish me some good luck. The welder finally has his generator fixed and will be coming by tomorrow afternoon@5:00PM. I sure hope we get those last 2 bolts out. He seems to think it's no problem at all. I sure hope he's right!!
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1FastBrick (07-29-2024)
#31
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He'll likely whack the **** out of them with a big screwdriver and twist them right out....
Just guessing of course.....
Just guessing of course.....
#33
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Well, the welder came by, did his thing, and they spun right out. I'll definitely buy the Mahle plate this time. I appreciate everyone's input on this thread. I didnt know the old style plate with hex heads was available anymore, or I'd never have installed this flathead junk. I will say I've never had an issue before, and did get 2 of these out myself. But my torch has a very old (maybe 60 years-it was dad's) tip on it, and I've tried cleaning it, but I can't get a decent sized flame on it anymore. If I turn up the acetylene very far, the flame blows out. Never used to do that. So I'm getting a new tip. Thanks again, guys....
#34
Staging Lane
The reason for the countersunk screws is for clearance issues with the cam gear. Not sure which setups require the countersunk screws but something to verify and check.
#36
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I used an impact driver, smacking it with a BFH, many, many times. One bolt still had a perfectly good female torx. It never did strip the head. Regardless, 2 of them would not budge. I don't like wailing the Hell out of anything, especially on a diecast aluminum engine block ....
Last edited by grinder11; 07-31-2024 at 03:27 PM.
#37
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Mission accomplished...Dosen't matter how you got there, what matters is that you got there.
#39
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Yes, heat makes a HUGE difference. Unless someone has ever worked with it, they won't believe it until they do. When my torch worked correctly, I never had any problems.......
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Ls1Rx-7 (07-31-2024)
#40
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Impresssed with the welder that got my screws out....
Thought I'd post pics of how my professional my welder guy was. He used a magnet attached to the cam retainer plate to hold the nut nearly dead nuts on center on the flathead screw heads. He also welded it inside the nut. He claimed this would help contain the sparks from flying everywhere, plus help point the sparks towards the front of the car. FWIW.....