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Melling 10296 vs. 10355 for my setup

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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 11:03 AM
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Default Melling 10296 vs. 10355 for my setup

Going back and forth on if I "need" to move to a 10355 vs. a 10296.

Road course engine so sustained high-ish rpm's.

Bearings on the "tighter" side(planning ~015 mains and no more than ~020 rods).

LS3 heads, but I am going to use restricted push rods to keep massive amounts of oil from getting pushed to the heads where drain back is questionable in the LS3 head.

Johnson 2126LSR axle oiling lifters...hence the need for at least a 10296.

Oil cooler, not sure exactly what core I am going to run, but most likely a Setrab of some shape, about .75qt capacity. Remote oil filter.

3qt Accusump on an "on-off" ball valve not a pressure sensor.

Kevko F-body road race baffled pan, 6qt capacity.

System should have total capacity in the 10-10.5qt range.


So I "think" i have plenty of system volume to likely run either one, but I dont know if the 10355 flow rate is overkill for the overall setup. I know the Johnson lifters push me from a 10295 to a 10296 easily enough. Then the oil cooler/accusump being in the mix dont know if that warrants a push towards the 10355 for even more volume.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 11:31 AM
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Restricting the top end on a road race car is a bad idea, unless your going to add spring oilers too.


the 2126 lifters aren’t really needed. The 2116’s dump a good bit of oil themselves as they are smaller dia than oe… so dont go crazy honing the lifter bores, as it will only get worse.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bthomas
Restricting the top end on a road race car is a bad idea, unless your going to add spring oilers too.


the 2126 lifters aren’t really needed. The 2116’s dump a good bit of oil themselves as they are smaller dia than oe… so dont go crazy honing the lifter bores, as it will only get worse.
Ive read enough on that topic to know that restricting them slightly(.040 vs. .080) isnt a problem as you will still get plenty of oil up top. GM started doing it on the Corvette race cars back in the late 90's. Filling the heads with oil that then cant drain back due to sustained G's and only gets sucked into your catch can/PCV system is a problem as well. Its not as a big a problem on cathedral port heads vs. the square port heads for some reason(oil drains are similar location and size). Lots of people have tried lots of things including drilling ports to hook AN hose up to get them to drain back to the pan better.

Who said anything about honing lifter bores?

2126 is a 2116 with the addition of axle oiling. 2116 is the same diameter(well I have read .0003 smaller) as OE.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 11:46 AM
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10296 pump is all you’ll need here, especially with those bearing clearances and the storage volume your running.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
10296 pump is all you’ll need here, especially with those bearing clearances and the storage volume your running.
Thanks.

Thats what I was thinking.

Just trying to add things up that affect pressure/flow and make an "educated" guess at what pump to run...

Would you run the standard pressure spring or the +10% pressure spring?

lifters are a bleed source of like 5-6 psi from what I understand... then I understand an oil cooler/remote filter setup can be another 8-10psi. So possibly up to 16psi of pressure "drop". I know the accusump will attempt to help out with that, although it being constant open kinda changes the game there a little bit for its intended purpose as it becomes an extra source of volume vs. an emergency supply.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rjacobsswa
Thanks.

Thats what I was thinking.

Just trying to add things up that affect pressure/flow and make an "educated" guess at what pump to run...

Would you run the standard pressure spring or the +10% pressure spring?

lifters are a bleed source of like 5-6 psi from what I understand... then I understand an oil cooler/remote filter setup can be another 8-10psi. So possibly up to 16psi of pressure "drop". I know the accusump will attempt to help out with that, although it being constant open kinda changes the game there a little bit for its intended purpose as it becomes an extra source of volume vs. an emergency supply.
Oil filter changes things also. I went from a Wix 57060 to a 57502XP and lost almost 10psi hot idle. I’d run the standard spring. You’ll have close to 100psi cold and prolly over 40 hot idle numbers.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 12:28 PM
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Make sure you add an Accusump or similar device. Improved Racing makes a super nice billet oil cooler adapter with built in Tstat plus a host of other LS track oriented parts.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Oil filter changes things also. I went from a Wix 57060 to a 57502XP and lost almost 10psi hot idle. I’d run the standard spring. You’ll have close to 100psi cold and prolly over 40 hot idle numbers.
It'll be an Amsoil of some sort, whatever fits the remote mount.

I was running an Oreilly Microguard Select on my current 4cyl BP motor for break in and its first track weekend(which ended up being 4-5 track weekends lol). My buddy drove the car on the 4th or 5th weekend(8-10 total days, about 15-18 hours) and was like "you only have 35psi hot oil pressure up top". Hot idle was ~19-20. I said "I dont know, **** runs great and I have my ECU fail safe set at 10psi for auto shut-down"... Changed in the off season, same oil(Amsoil 5w50 signature), but an Amsoil filter this time. Same hot idle pressure of 19-20, but get 50 up top now. So either the Oreilly filter filters for **** with no restriction(probably) or the Amsoil is filtering to much(is there such a thing?) since PSI is directly related to "resistance to flow".

I recently watched a video on oil pumps on youtube from Powell machine and he discusses oil pressure vs. rpm and, I may be remember incorrectly, he says having massive differences in oil pressure means something is amiss in the overall system usually the by-pass cant flow enough oil. He's not a fan of high pressure pumps, but is a big fan of high volume.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gnx7
Make sure you add an Accusump or similar device. Improved Racing makes a super nice billet oil cooler adapter with built in Tstat plus a host of other LS track oriented parts.
me thinks you didnt read my OP... 3qt accusump already in the plan.

The Kevko pan has -10 fittings in place of an oil filter adapter.

I talked to improved racing about their windage tray and crank scraper combo, but im running a 4.8 crank(3.267 stroke) so they didnt think a crank scraper would be worth it as the crank probably wouldnt even "interact" with the scraper. I might run their windage tray, but Kevko(oil pan maker) said they prefer the OEM ones and they are only like 40 bucks vs. 200 bucks...
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 12:51 PM
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10296 for sure. 10355 only if you had oil squirters.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by spanks13
10296 for sure. 10355 only if you had oil squirters.
And the standard relief spring.
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Old Jan 8, 2025 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by pannetron
And the standard relief spring.
Agree with that too!

I have the 10296 with the standard spring in my LS7 and at 185* oil temp it is around 25-30 at idle and at high rpm peaks at ~60-70 psi
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rjacobsswa
Going back and forth on if I "need" to move to a 10355 vs. a 10296.

Road course engine so sustained high-ish rpm's.

Bearings on the "tighter" side(planning ~015 mains and no more than ~020 rods).

LS3 heads, but I am going to use restricted push rods to keep massive amounts of oil from getting pushed to the heads where drain back is questionable in the LS3 head.

Johnson 2126LSR axle oiling lifters...hence the need for at least a 10296.

Oil cooler, not sure exactly what core I am going to run, but most likely a Setrab of some shape, about .75qt capacity. Remote oil filter.

3qt Accusump on an "on-off" ball valve not a pressure sensor.

Kevko F-body road race baffled pan, 6qt capacity.

System should have total capacity in the 10-10.5qt range.


So I "think" i have plenty of system volume to likely run either one, but I dont know if the 10355 flow rate is overkill for the overall setup. I know the Johnson lifters push me from a 10295 to a 10296 easily enough. Then the oil cooler/accusump being in the mix dont know if that warrants a push towards the 10355 for even more volume.
Adding an oil cooler and Accusump does not require a higher volume pump. However, I recommend running the higher pressure spring to make up for the slight additional pressure drop across the cooler.

We wrote an article on selecting the right oil pump, which might help, but you're already on the right track: https://www.improvedracing.com/choos...l-block-engine

I think the 10296 is probably the safe choice for your setup. If you need to order one, we keep them in stock and usually have the lowest price on the internet with free shipping.
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing
Adding an oil cooler and Accusump does not require a higher volume pump.
This I dont disagree with...

BUT the Johnson 2126 axle oiling lifters is my main reason for running a high volume since they are basically pumping oil out the bottom of the lifter. Maybe not as much volume as a piston oil squirter, but substantial none the less.

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Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing
If you need to order one, we keep them in stock and usually have the lowest price on the internet with free shipping.
Thats my plan since I want to get your all's oil barbell also. Unless i decide to get a blue-printed pump from Precision Oil Pumps.
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Oil filter changes things also. I went from a Wix 57060 to a 57502XP and lost almost 10psi hot idle. I’d run the standard spring. You’ll have close to 100psi cold and prolly over 40 hot idle numbers.
what’s different in the filter to cause such a difference?
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
what’s different in the filter to cause such a difference?
Just a quick google on those two filters, the second filter is like 2x as large as the first(which is "generally" a good thing IMO). Less flow restriction through the larger filter will cause a drop in oil pressure, but it can "generally" flow more volume with the same filtration ability. pressure is resistance to flow, nothing more. Change one part of a system and the overall PSI can/will change. Kinda like when somebody spins a bearing and oil pressure suddenly changes(up or down) because of either a new restriction or a massive new "leak".
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by spanks13
Agree with that too!

I have the 10296 with the standard spring in my LS7 and at 185* oil temp it is around 25-30 at idle and at high rpm peaks at ~60-70 psi
Same pressures I'm having on an L94, AFM deleted, kept VVT, and running an oil bypass filter. Stock oil pan, L92 OEM camshaft, relief valve in the pan plugged, AFM towers plugged.
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Old Jan 9, 2025 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
what’s different in the filter to cause such a difference?
As rjacob said, the much larger surface area combined with a synthetic vs non synthetic media material.
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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 09:30 AM
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Plus each brand of filter seems to have a slightly different pressure rating for bypass. Some are lower than others. Not to mention the different micron rating. It's a good idea to research the specs and decide on a filter....
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