Melling 10296 vs. 10355 for my setup
Road course engine so sustained high-ish rpm's.
Bearings on the "tighter" side(planning ~015 mains and no more than ~020 rods).
LS3 heads, but I am going to use restricted push rods to keep massive amounts of oil from getting pushed to the heads where drain back is questionable in the LS3 head.
Johnson 2126LSR axle oiling lifters...hence the need for at least a 10296.
Oil cooler, not sure exactly what core I am going to run, but most likely a Setrab of some shape, about .75qt capacity. Remote oil filter.
3qt Accusump on an "on-off" ball valve not a pressure sensor.
Kevko F-body road race baffled pan, 6qt capacity.
System should have total capacity in the 10-10.5qt range.
So I "think" i have plenty of system volume to likely run either one, but I dont know if the 10355 flow rate is overkill for the overall setup. I know the Johnson lifters push me from a 10295 to a 10296 easily enough. Then the oil cooler/accusump being in the mix dont know if that warrants a push towards the 10355 for even more volume.
the 2126 lifters aren’t really needed. The 2116’s dump a good bit of oil themselves as they are smaller dia than oe… so dont go crazy honing the lifter bores, as it will only get worse.
the 2126 lifters aren’t really needed. The 2116’s dump a good bit of oil themselves as they are smaller dia than oe… so dont go crazy honing the lifter bores, as it will only get worse.
Who said anything about honing lifter bores?
2126 is a 2116 with the addition of axle oiling. 2116 is the same diameter(well I have read .0003 smaller) as OE.
Thats what I was thinking.
Just trying to add things up that affect pressure/flow and make an "educated" guess at what pump to run...
Would you run the standard pressure spring or the +10% pressure spring?
lifters are a bleed source of like 5-6 psi from what I understand... then I understand an oil cooler/remote filter setup can be another 8-10psi. So possibly up to 16psi of pressure "drop". I know the accusump will attempt to help out with that, although it being constant open kinda changes the game there a little bit for its intended purpose as it becomes an extra source of volume vs. an emergency supply.
Thats what I was thinking.
Just trying to add things up that affect pressure/flow and make an "educated" guess at what pump to run...
Would you run the standard pressure spring or the +10% pressure spring?
lifters are a bleed source of like 5-6 psi from what I understand... then I understand an oil cooler/remote filter setup can be another 8-10psi. So possibly up to 16psi of pressure "drop". I know the accusump will attempt to help out with that, although it being constant open kinda changes the game there a little bit for its intended purpose as it becomes an extra source of volume vs. an emergency supply.
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I was running an Oreilly Microguard Select on my current 4cyl BP motor for break in and its first track weekend(which ended up being 4-5 track weekends lol). My buddy drove the car on the 4th or 5th weekend(8-10 total days, about 15-18 hours) and was like "you only have 35psi hot oil pressure up top". Hot idle was ~19-20. I said "I dont know, **** runs great and I have my ECU fail safe set at 10psi for auto shut-down"... Changed in the off season, same oil(Amsoil 5w50 signature), but an Amsoil filter this time. Same hot idle pressure of 19-20, but get 50 up top now. So either the Oreilly filter filters for **** with no restriction(probably) or the Amsoil is filtering to much(is there such a thing?) since PSI is directly related to "resistance to flow".
I recently watched a video on oil pumps on youtube from Powell machine and he discusses oil pressure vs. rpm and, I may be remember incorrectly, he says having massive differences in oil pressure means something is amiss in the overall system usually the by-pass cant flow enough oil. He's not a fan of high pressure pumps, but is a big fan of high volume.
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The Kevko pan has -10 fittings in place of an oil filter adapter.
I talked to improved racing about their windage tray and crank scraper combo, but im running a 4.8 crank(3.267 stroke) so they didnt think a crank scraper would be worth it as the crank probably wouldnt even "interact" with the scraper. I might run their windage tray, but Kevko(oil pan maker) said they prefer the OEM ones and they are only like 40 bucks vs. 200 bucks...
Road course engine so sustained high-ish rpm's.
Bearings on the "tighter" side(planning ~015 mains and no more than ~020 rods).
LS3 heads, but I am going to use restricted push rods to keep massive amounts of oil from getting pushed to the heads where drain back is questionable in the LS3 head.
Johnson 2126LSR axle oiling lifters...hence the need for at least a 10296.
Oil cooler, not sure exactly what core I am going to run, but most likely a Setrab of some shape, about .75qt capacity. Remote oil filter.
3qt Accusump on an "on-off" ball valve not a pressure sensor.
Kevko F-body road race baffled pan, 6qt capacity.
System should have total capacity in the 10-10.5qt range.
So I "think" i have plenty of system volume to likely run either one, but I dont know if the 10355 flow rate is overkill for the overall setup. I know the Johnson lifters push me from a 10295 to a 10296 easily enough. Then the oil cooler/accusump being in the mix dont know if that warrants a push towards the 10355 for even more volume.
We wrote an article on selecting the right oil pump, which might help, but you're already on the right track: https://www.improvedracing.com/choos...l-block-engine
I think the 10296 is probably the safe choice for your setup. If you need to order one, we keep them in stock and usually have the lowest price on the internet with free shipping.
BUT the Johnson 2126 axle oiling lifters is my main reason for running a high volume since they are basically pumping oil out the bottom of the lifter. Maybe not as much volume as a piston oil squirter, but substantial none the less.
Thats my plan since I want to get your all's oil barbell also. Unless i decide to get a blue-printed pump from Precision Oil Pumps.













