Hello, I have a 2015 Camaro Ss 6 speed and about 4 months ago I tore one of the lifters and the one can live was ate and 1 lifter destroyed I got a shop to fix the lifter bore and a cracked cylinder sleeve and I told him to replace also the cam bearing but he didn’t he told me they were good and there was no need to change them so I trusted him because he should know more than me I put the engine back together Johnson lifters, gpi ss4 nfc cam, new piston rings, all new gaskets, 10295 oil pump, put rivets on oil valley, plugged oil bypass valve on oil pan, new oil barbell, Che trunions, comp cam pushrods, when I went to start it up it started up great like nothing happened some ticking but went away after couple of seconds but I got 45 psi cold 15 psi hot😭 pressure will go up with rpm I tried almost everything changed pump and o ring, checked with mechanical gauge, but still the same I’m guessing it’s the cam bearings, maybe the little part of the cam bearing that is hit it’s the problem.

i also found white stuff at the bottom of the oil pan after rebuild maybe condensation since it’s really cold?
5w-30 móbil 1 oil

 

What were your..
Main bearing clearances
Rod bearing clearances
cam journal to cam bearing clearances
Lifter to NEW lifter bushing clearance
Do you have a pic of the new lifter bushing, from another angle? I’d like to see how he drilled the oil circuit hole through it. If no picture of that, did you confirm that the oil circuit was drilled through the bushing body, left to right?
Have you changed the oil yet? Sometimes the oil filter gets clogged from assembly lube and some residual trash at first startup. This will kill oil pressure.
Did you clean the oil pickup thoroughly when you put this back together? It gets a lot of debris in it and gets clogged when there’s shrapnel and debris in an engine.
Cut your oil filter open and look for debris. That white paste looks interesting…

 

Good morning, the engine has 57k miles i didnt mesure clearances maybe that was one issue but everything was standard and he only driles one hole i told him about that he said i didnt need the other one since I wasn’t running dod which kind of makes since since its the first lifter but idk, i changed the oil , the filter, cleaned pickup and yea white stuff is weird im fearing cracked block maybe but its not that much

 

Do you have a pic of the new lifter bushing, from a closer angle?

 

here’s a closer look at the lifter bushing and the cam bearing

 

I don't see anything wrong with the cam bearing. It does however look like that broke-off bit of the block might be exposing that passage, between the 2 lifter bores. Should be welded up if so.

It would have been easy enough to run a long drill into the oil passage from the front or rear of the block to drill the hole in the bore bushing. Can't tell whether that was done or not.

White paste looks like some kind of build lube. No idea what. I've seen moly grease accumulate like that, butt it's kinda bluish-gray, not white.

Who assembled the engine? Which oil pump pickup O-ring was used?

 

As a Toolmaker, probably the best way to do the oil "window" would be to start by measuring the oil galley internal diameter. Then mount an end mill slightly smaller in diameter than the galley into a horizontal milling machine. Then feed the part into cutter to the desired depth. Then mount an "on size" (same size as the galley diameter) end mill and again feed it to the desired depth. I would leave about .020" stock on the O.D., then finish it to proper diameter on a lathe. The I.D. should probably be .005" to .010" undersize, and be finished at assembly once the sleeve was pressed in and loctited. But, as my old grinding department leader used to say, a lot, "there's more than one way to skin a cats ***!" But that is how I would probably do it. Thin wall sleeves like this can move rather easily, even with a .002" press fit, because the thin wall collapses. If a drill hooks it just right, it could move or be ruined. My .02.....

 

I didn't see at first that you did have a cracked cylinder sleeve. Many times, maybe most of the time, when a sleeve cracks, it also cracks the aluminum block. Don't know who, or how, they fixed the sleeve. Or if they found a cracked block. But this might explain some of your issues, like the white substance, and low oil pressure. If the aluminum block was cracked, it's pretty much junk. It is entirely possible that if your block is cracked the crack may extend into an oil galley, which is under pressure, and it could be bleeding off the oil pressure. Once the coolant is hot, it is also under pressure, and coolant could be getting into your oil. I'm going by what Steve Demirjian at Race engine told me about LS7s. Maybe LS7s have a greater chance of cracking the block when the sleeve cracks than other LS platforms, idk. I do know he told me that of all the LS7s he has seen in his shop, which probably number in the hundreds, he has seen only 1 block that when it cracked the sleeve, the block was still good. FWIW.....

 

The LS7 because of its big bore and thin sleeve the sleeve cracks the block usually cracks also as the sleeve (material is OK but not a like Darton sleeve) does not provide much cushion. In fact they recommend no more than a .005 bore on an LS7 due to the thin sleeve.