LS7 dry sump pan/pump on LS1
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LS7 dry sump pan/pump on LS1 So looking at the pics that are in this months PHR mag, it looks like the pan and pump could be put on an LS1. I take it that all the external the demensions and bolt holes of the LS7 block are the same as the LS1 right? What about the crank nose diameter (reason I ask this is I would think the LS7 timing chain would be required)?
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On The Tree
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The article doesn't actually say you can't do it...what it says is there are differences in the crank, pan, and front cover. We've known this for months. Obviously, the snout on the crank is different, and the front cover is different to house the two stage oil pump.
From what I gather after disassembling an LS7...
Yes, you can run an LS7 dry sump on an LS1/2/6 or any other GENIII/IV block.
Here is what I think you will need... assuming you will stick with existing tuning setup:
1) Plug your existing dip stick hole in the block
2) LS7 pan and windage tray (and adaptors for aftermarket oil lines)
3) Custom oil tank and lines
4) LS7 crank (or an aftermarket crank with correct snout length in stroke of your choice when/if they become available)
5) 24x reluctor wheel installed on crank
6) LS7 crank timing chain sprocket
7) Early style (1X) LS2 cam sprocket and compatible chain
8) LS7 oil pump
9) LS7 front cover with sensor and LS2 style adaptor harness
10) LS7 Harmonic balancer or custom equivalant that does not yet exist.
Note that the LS7 harmonic balancer only lines up with C5 and C6 accessory drives. All other drives require either custom brackets or a custom balancer built specifically to counter the longer LS7 snout offset.
I may be missing a few details but I think that about covers it...
Bill
Yes, you can run an LS7 dry sump on an LS1/2/6 or any other GENIII/IV block.
Here is what I think you will need... assuming you will stick with existing tuning setup:
1) Plug your existing dip stick hole in the block
2) LS7 pan and windage tray (and adaptors for aftermarket oil lines)
3) Custom oil tank and lines
4) LS7 crank (or an aftermarket crank with correct snout length in stroke of your choice when/if they become available)
5) 24x reluctor wheel installed on crank
6) LS7 crank timing chain sprocket
7) Early style (1X) LS2 cam sprocket and compatible chain
8) LS7 oil pump
9) LS7 front cover with sensor and LS2 style adaptor harness
10) LS7 Harmonic balancer or custom equivalant that does not yet exist.
Note that the LS7 harmonic balancer only lines up with C5 and C6 accessory drives. All other drives require either custom brackets or a custom balancer built specifically to counter the longer LS7 snout offset.
I may be missing a few details but I think that about covers it...
Bill
Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Why would you need the LS7 crank time chain sprocket?
I image Crower or Callies can make the crank with whatever snout you need. And ATI would have a balancer.
I image Crower or Callies can make the crank with whatever snout you need. And ATI would have a balancer.
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I don't know how I missed this searching a few months ago. I think the largest determining factor in this whole ordeal would be cost. Could you piece together a LS7 setup cheaper than an aftermarket dry sump?
I thought it couldn't hurt to bring this thread back as it's something I'm working on. My driving decision here to avoid aftermarket dry sump is that I want AC in the car still, and since my engine is going into a full frame car...I'm trying to maintain SOME of the original engine cradle, which would be harder with an aftermarket pan.
Just to add to stuff Bill Reid posted above (in case someone is searching), the balancer will also line up with CTS-V accessory drives...they're the same distance off the front of the block that the C5/C6 drives are. It's the route I'm taking because as far as I can tell, it's the most compact accessory drive, the alternator is down low like an f-body, the power steering pump is on the drivers side head, everything is just really snug into the block side to side and also pulled just as close to the front of the block as a vette setup. I have a big engine bay, but I have to fit 2 turbo's and a dry sump tank and all my plumbing in, so I went with the accessory drive that worked best for me...and luckily makes it pretty easy to use the LS7 dry sump oiling system too.
Just to add to stuff Bill Reid posted above (in case someone is searching), the balancer will also line up with CTS-V accessory drives...they're the same distance off the front of the block that the C5/C6 drives are. It's the route I'm taking because as far as I can tell, it's the most compact accessory drive, the alternator is down low like an f-body, the power steering pump is on the drivers side head, everything is just really snug into the block side to side and also pulled just as close to the front of the block as a vette setup. I have a big engine bay, but I have to fit 2 turbo's and a dry sump tank and all my plumbing in, so I went with the accessory drive that worked best for me...and luckily makes it pretty easy to use the LS7 dry sump oiling system too.
I thought it couldn't hurt to bring this thread back as it's something I'm working on. My driving decision here to avoid aftermarket dry sump is that I want AC in the car still, and since my engine is going into a full frame car...I'm trying to maintain SOME of the original engine cradle, which would be harder with an aftermarket pan.
Just to add to stuff Bill Reid posted above (in case someone is searching), the balancer will also line up with CTS-V accessory drives...they're the same distance off the front of the block that the C5/C6 drives are. It's the route I'm taking because as far as I can tell, it's the most compact accessory drive, the alternator is down low like an f-body, the power steering pump is on the drivers side head, everything is just really snug into the block side to side and also pulled just as close to the front of the block as a vette setup. I have a big engine bay, but I have to fit 2 turbo's and a dry sump tank and all my plumbing in, so I went with the accessory drive that worked best for me...and luckily makes it pretty easy to use the LS7 dry sump oiling system too.
Just to add to stuff Bill Reid posted above (in case someone is searching), the balancer will also line up with CTS-V accessory drives...they're the same distance off the front of the block that the C5/C6 drives are. It's the route I'm taking because as far as I can tell, it's the most compact accessory drive, the alternator is down low like an f-body, the power steering pump is on the drivers side head, everything is just really snug into the block side to side and also pulled just as close to the front of the block as a vette setup. I have a big engine bay, but I have to fit 2 turbo's and a dry sump tank and all my plumbing in, so I went with the accessory drive that worked best for me...and luckily makes it pretty easy to use the LS7 dry sump oiling system too.
I'm not sure yet, but I think behind the passenger side headlight, I'm not in an f-body engine bay though, mid 90's B-Body...my LS1 Z28 is my daily driver, so it's just getting left alone . I'm up in the air with putting it behind that headlight, or between the passenger wheel well and the cowl. I'm not using GM's tank. It's a good part and I'm sure it functions really well, but it won't fit where I want it to.
. I'm up in the air with putting it behind that headlight, or between the passenger wheel well and the cowl. I'm not using GM's tank. It's a good part and I'm sure it functions really well, but it won't fit where I want it to. 
You can run a F-body accy drive with a LS7 oiling system by using a C5 dampner with .015 trimmed off the rear of the hub. You can also buy the ATI C5 dampner and cut the .015 off the rear of the hub.
Kurt
Kurt
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Just purchsed an LS7 for my Off Road Race Car I am going to be doing the plumbing soon for the Oil system and I like to know about the dry sump pump, it came with the oil line but not the oil tank. So....
1. Does anyone know which of the two lines comming out of the block is suction and or discharge?
Thanks Mike
1. Does anyone know which of the two lines comming out of the block is suction and or discharge?
Thanks Mike
Teching In
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I honestly want to know if I can buy the parts from GM: oil pump, oil pan and timing chain cover, and put them on my LS6/383... The Tank and plumbing are a moog point..
I have read 20/30 posting about this…but no one has put the LS1/6/2/3 crank down and told me the LS7 crank is longer .500, .100, .050...nothing but a bunch of guy say NOTHING.. This is LS1 Tech, not LS1 BS right??? Somebody PLEASE give me some hard evidence about this…
The LS7 crank snout is around .875 longer to drive the additional oil pump stage. Callies makes crankshafts with the additional length to run the LS7 oiling system if you want to add it on a different engine combo.
Kurt
Kurt
Honestly has anyone really sat down and measured the crank to see what the difference really is??????? is the snout of the LS7 crank really longer or not??
I honestly want to know if I can buy the parts from GM: oil pump, oil pan and timing chain cover, and put them on my LS6/383... The Tank and plumbing are a moog point..
I have read 20/30 posting about this…but no one has put the LS1/6/2/3 crank down and told me the LS7 crank is longer .500, .100, .050...nothing but a bunch of guy say NOTHING.. This is LS1 Tech, not LS1 BS right??? Somebody PLEASE give me some hard evidence about this…
I honestly want to know if I can buy the parts from GM: oil pump, oil pan and timing chain cover, and put them on my LS6/383... The Tank and plumbing are a moog point..
I have read 20/30 posting about this…but no one has put the LS1/6/2/3 crank down and told me the LS7 crank is longer .500, .100, .050...nothing but a bunch of guy say NOTHING.. This is LS1 Tech, not LS1 BS right??? Somebody PLEASE give me some hard evidence about this…