HALLZ

iTrader: (1)

Well....I personaly think silver solder would work better cause you have less lead and more hard metals. But to do it correctly you would have to get your bearing hotter for it to avoid a cold solder problem. If it were to fall apart or off the bearing you could have problems. I would avoid it if possible!


Hey Jason I think your old motor has some Sodium Silicate in it holding it together!!
j/k

Rick@Synergy

iTrader: (5)

Its still only a few thousandths that it needs to get stuck in the crank. And if it still takes a hammer to pound the bearing in, I dont think its going anywhere after that.

Rick

Diamond Jim

Another solution, requires a lathe. Simply knurl the outside of the pilot bearing to make it larger.

Rick@Synergy

iTrader: (5)

I have heard of that method as well and was going to try that as my second solution if the first did not work.

Rick

HALLZ

iTrader: (1)

But what the hell did you use to heat the bearing hot enough get the tin solder to flow around the case???? I just would not be comfortable getting the peice hot enough to flow silver solder (1000° F to 1600° F range) all the way around it for fear of it distorting. Plain old rosin core 60% tin / 40% lead It has a melting point between 361°F and 374°F and would have to reach around 300°F to start getting weak. If the crank is geting that hot there is a problem!

Also if it had a good even flow that thin layer should not offset the bearing enough to matter and I would think being 40% lead would give enough to help it center or take off any high spots.


I have had to have parts knurled to get them to fit right,..works prity darn good for a quick fix or when you have no other options. I have even seen it done on pistons to get the right piston to wall clearance.