New Crate LS-2 rod problem
04-04-2006, 05:32 PM
#1
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New Crate LS-2 rod problem Just purchased a new 06' LS-2 crate engine and while changing the stock rod bolts to Katech's superior bolts, noticed that the No. 6 rod locks up tight to the crank at approx. 15 ft. lbs... Switched bolts made no difference... Checked upper and lower rod bearings, they look perfect except I can see a tiny contact line on both upper and lower... turns over without much effort, but clearly a problem.. No side to side movement what so ever.. Any thoughts? I will try a .001 undersize bearing to see if that helps..
Thanks - Bobby Speeddoctor04@aol.com
Thanks - Bobby Speeddoctor04@aol.com
Last edited by Speed R; 04-04-2006 at 05:48 PM.
04-04-2006, 06:43 PM
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did you plasti-gauge it yet???
Are you saying you have "0" clearance??
I'd investigate before i run out and buy an undersize bearing.. you may be masking another problem.
Are you saying you have "0" clearance??
I'd investigate before i run out and buy an undersize bearing.. you may be masking another problem.
04-04-2006, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Speed R
Just purchased a new 06' LS-2 crate engine and while changing the stock rod bolts to Katech's superior bolts, noticed that the No. 6 rod locks up tight to the crank at approx. 15 ft. lbs... Switched bolts made no difference... Checked upper and lower rod bearings, they look perfect except I can see a tiny contact line on both upper and lower... turns over without much effort, but clearly a problem.. No side to side movement what so ever.. Any thoughts? I will try a .001 undersize bearing to see if that helps..
Thanks - Bobby Speeddoctor04@aol.com
Thanks - Bobby Speeddoctor04@aol.com
You just can't change out the rod bolts without resizing the rods....You're begging for trouble if you do...
04-04-2006, 07:29 PM
#5
With the Katech bolts you can change the bolts with out resizing. I did a lot of rebuilds with these bolts when I worked for Lingenfelter Performance Engineering. The engines were being upfitted for the asa program. After they got up fitted with the parts they went right on the engine dyno for break in. We never had any rod bolt problems with the Katech bolts. The Katech bolts don't distort the housing bore like manhy other companys bolts do.
04-04-2006, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Ls1Joe
With the Katech bolts you can change the bolts with out resizing. I did a lot of rebuilds with these bolts when I worked for Lingenfelter Performance Engineering. The engines were being upfitted for the asa program. After they got up fitted with the parts they went right on the engine dyno for break in. We never had any rod bolt problems with the Katech bolts. The Katech bolts don't distort the housing bore like manhy other companys bolts do.
That might be true... But banging/pressing the bolts in and out of the rod "might" distort them... There is NO WAY I'd do it without at least checking them for size and roundness... But to each his own...
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04-05-2006, 10:54 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Dune-LS1
That might be true... But banging/pressing the bolts in and out of the rod "might" distort them... There is NO WAY I'd do it without at least checking them for size and roundness... But to each his own...
they go thru the cap and screw directly into the rod.
the cap itself is a cracked cap design that cannot slide around.
you'll find that if you do it and check, it doesnt change, and if it did, you wouldnt be able to use the rod anyway (lack of available bearings.....)
04-05-2006, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
the bolts dont press into these rods.
they go thru the cap and screw directly into the rod.
the cap itself is a cracked cap design that cannot slide around.
you'll find that if you do it and check, it doesnt change, and if it did, you wouldnt be able to use the rod anyway (lack of available bearings.....)
they go thru the cap and screw directly into the rod.
the cap itself is a cracked cap design that cannot slide around.
you'll find that if you do it and check, it doesnt change, and if it did, you wouldnt be able to use the rod anyway (lack of available bearings.....)
Just one more reason not to mess with "factory" parts.
JMHO.
04-05-2006, 03:20 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Dune-LS1
Just one more reason not to mess with "factory" parts. JMHO.
JMHO.sure, it sucks that its a PITA to resize the rods, but the only thing stopping us is that they dont sell the bearings yet (to my knowledge).. the main reason they dont is because of the lack of demand...
if you changed bolts, and it was still perfectly round, why would you want to resize it anyway?
04-05-2006, 06:48 PM
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Thanks for all the input .. Removed that rod / piston today and found that the rod was .006 out of round straight across the parting lines, up and down it was perfect.. Not repairable, got a new rod coming from GM tommorrow.. Contacted the guru's at Katech and its not the first..
04-07-2006, 11:06 AM
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This is a stupid question but why can't you use an LS1 bearing in an LS2, are the journals larger?
I thought they where the same crank stroke being that the cranks would have similar dimensions.
I thought they where the same crank stroke being that the cranks would have similar dimensions.
04-07-2006, 02:38 PM
#16
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
they dont sell the bearings yet (to my knowledge).. the main reason they dont is because of the lack of demand...
04-07-2006, 02:42 PM
#17
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
the bolts dont press into these rods.
they go thru the cap and screw directly into the rod.
the cap itself is a cracked cap design that cannot slide around.
you'll find that if you do it and check, it doesnt change, and if it did, you wouldnt be able to use the rod anyway (lack of available bearings.....)
they go thru the cap and screw directly into the rod.
the cap itself is a cracked cap design that cannot slide around.
you'll find that if you do it and check, it doesnt change, and if it did, you wouldnt be able to use the rod anyway (lack of available bearings.....)
04-07-2006, 03:13 PM
#18
Originally Posted by KCS
Also, the earlier stock rods had dowels in the cap. The dowel went over the bolt and had to be pressed in/out of the cap. But still screwed into the rod.
yea, they're a bit of a PITA to pull out when swapping to Katech bolts... my friend jeff ended up snugging the new bolts in a bit, and as he unscrewed it again, it pulled the sleeve/pin out...
btw, it is cool they make an oversize rod-bearing now... last time i checked (a LONG time ago) they didnt... someday id like to think we'll have as many options as the SBC...
