LS3 & L92 Info
06-12-2006, 03:51 PM
#101
I did get tracking #'s on the intake rockers and rocker stands today 
I'm a bit worried about the deck thickness on these heads. They are very light! My Dart heads are about 10lbs heavier.
I have to mill mine down to 62cc to get the compression that I want and I'll be running nitrous on top of that and I'm worried about the deck thickness being an issue.
I'm a bit worried about the deck thickness on these heads. They are very light! My Dart heads are about 10lbs heavier.
I have to mill mine down to 62cc to get the compression that I want and I'll be running nitrous on top of that and I'm worried about the deck thickness being an issue.
06-12-2006, 11:43 PM
#102
Restricted User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 7,603
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, to ask some questions: Will the L92 heads bolt down w/o issue to the LS1/6 Block? Are the power strng bracket bolts drilled and tapped correctly as well as other bolt holes? And lastly, is the LSX 90mm Intake an option or no? Above it was posted the intake pattern appears the same, and other say it takes a truck intake or one from a Holden vehicle? Thinking of a 408 iron block and these heads would do very well. But I would have to sell my current ETP 11* 59cc 225's....should be able to sell them for twice the price of these heads Budgeting already.
Budgeting already.
06-13-2006, 07:43 AM
#103
They will bolt down but on an LS1 or LS6 block, the valves are going to hit the sides of the cylinder walls. I measured on my LS2 block and the ex. valve had .038" clearance but it is a 4.005" bore.
I measured the intake bolt pattern and it appears to be the same but tonight I'm going to see if a stock LS1 intake will bolt up for sure.
I might even do some grinding and put some epoxy here and there to see if I can match it up.
I'll post up what I find out.
I measured the intake bolt pattern and it appears to be the same but tonight I'm going to see if a stock LS1 intake will bolt up for sure.
I might even do some grinding and put some epoxy here and there to see if I can match it up.
I'll post up what I find out.
06-17-2006, 12:18 AM
#104
Originally Posted by Richard@WCCH
I just got off the phone with Manley and they said they won't have any valves ready for at least 6-8 weeks. It looks like a standard length 1.60" stainless valve will work for the exhaust. The intake valves will have a long wait though.
Richard
Richard
I have a question about the valvetrain for these L92 heads.
Do you think it would be posible to run all the LS7 valvetrain components in these heads, and yes i know you will have to machine the seats bigger, but not by alot, i mean going from 2.160 to 2.200 is only .040 and the exhaust is going from a 1.590 to a 1.600 right?
Use the LS7 valves, springs, seals, retainers, locks, lash caps on intake side, and LS7 intake and exhaust rockers with the L92 rocker stands?
While not the cheapest option, you will get a lightweight valvetrain that can withstand some good RPM before valve float.
Thsi was an idea i had for my build an just want to see what some of the other, more experienced with this engine have to think.
Thanks
06-17-2006, 12:18 AM
#105
Also, any word as to when the L92 block will be available??
Well nevermind just checked the part number on gmpartsdiect and it came up:
12584727 6.2L engine block (may backorder) 1258.00
Some sweet news there, ill be ordering mine very soon.
Anybody think if i wait alittle while the price will come down at all??
Well nevermind just checked the part number on gmpartsdiect and it came up:
12584727 6.2L engine block (may backorder) 1258.00
Some sweet news there, ill be ordering mine very soon.
Anybody think if i wait alittle while the price will come down at all??
06-17-2006, 12:29 AM
#106
It may be possible to use the LS7 valve springs and retainers on something else, but the valves are over .300" longer than the stock valves and there's no way they'll work in an L92 head. The two heads have different valve angles and valve lengths.
Good luck,
Richard
Good luck,
Richard
06-17-2006, 08:41 AM
#107
You can use 1.6 LS1 valves, either open the seat up to 1.6 or turn the valve down to 1.59, they are the same length.
You can get custom Manley 2.16 valves for around $200.
The FAST intake could be made to work with some epoxy and a die grinder then use the intake gasket from the L92 truck intake. It bolts up just fine. The stock LS1/LS6 intake bolts up too but you have to grind off the round locating bosses on the bottom of the bolt locations to get it to seal.
You can get custom Manley 2.16 valves for around $200.
The FAST intake could be made to work with some epoxy and a die grinder then use the intake gasket from the L92 truck intake. It bolts up just fine. The stock LS1/LS6 intake bolts up too but you have to grind off the round locating bosses on the bottom of the bolt locations to get it to seal.
06-17-2006, 01:00 PM
#108
Originally Posted by Slicknic
You can use 1.6 LS1 valves, either open the seat up to 1.6 or turn the valve down to 1.59, they are the same length.
You can get custom Manley 2.16 valves for around $200.
The FAST intake could be made to work with some epoxy and a die grinder then use the intake gasket from the L92 truck intake. It bolts up just fine. The stock LS1/LS6 intake bolts up too but you have to grind off the round locating bosses on the bottom of the bolt locations to get it to seal.
You can get custom Manley 2.16 valves for around $200.
The FAST intake could be made to work with some epoxy and a die grinder then use the intake gasket from the L92 truck intake. It bolts up just fine. The stock LS1/LS6 intake bolts up too but you have to grind off the round locating bosses on the bottom of the bolt locations to get it to seal.
have u accomplished this?
can u put up some pics?
06-17-2006, 02:30 PM
#109
The 1.6 LS1 valve is the same 8mm in dia. and the same length so it's a no brainer. With the 1.6 valve on my 4.005" LS2 block, I had .038 clearance between the valve and the side of the cylinder wall.
The intake, I bolted a stock LS1 intake up to my block with the L92 heads that I got from Scoggin Dickey and it bolts up just fine. If you look at the bottom of the intake on the head mating sealing flange, there are some positioning bosses that are at the bottom of the intake bolting locations that fit into the holes in the head side, you have to grind those down to get it to seat properly.
The intake opening ports would have to be opened up in the intake to where the seals are, you would have to remove the seals and epoxy the seal grooves.
You would then need to use the intake gaskets from L92 truck intake to get it to seal up.
You can make the port match pretty good but the bottom of the port would have a rather large transition area.
To smooth out the airflow, you would need to expoxy a ramp into the bottom of the intake runner at the opening.
A FAST intake would be much better to use since it is the best flowing thing out there at this time but if they are coming out with a car style L92 intake then I would just wait and use it.
It can be done is all I am saying..
I might post up some pics but it'll be a few days.
The intake, I bolted a stock LS1 intake up to my block with the L92 heads that I got from Scoggin Dickey and it bolts up just fine. If you look at the bottom of the intake on the head mating sealing flange, there are some positioning bosses that are at the bottom of the intake bolting locations that fit into the holes in the head side, you have to grind those down to get it to seat properly.
The intake opening ports would have to be opened up in the intake to where the seals are, you would have to remove the seals and epoxy the seal grooves.
You would then need to use the intake gaskets from L92 truck intake to get it to seal up.
You can make the port match pretty good but the bottom of the port would have a rather large transition area.
To smooth out the airflow, you would need to expoxy a ramp into the bottom of the intake runner at the opening.
A FAST intake would be much better to use since it is the best flowing thing out there at this time but if they are coming out with a car style L92 intake then I would just wait and use it.
It can be done is all I am saying..
I might post up some pics but it'll be a few days.
06-22-2006, 01:02 PM
#110
Originally Posted by Slicknic
The 1.6 LS1 valve is the same 8mm in dia. and the same length so it's a no brainer. With the 1.6 valve on my 4.005" LS2 block, I had .038 clearance between the valve and the side of the cylinder wall.
The intake, I bolted a stock LS1 intake up to my block with the L92 heads that I got from Scoggin Dickey and it bolts up just fine. If you look at the bottom of the intake on the head mating sealing flange, there are some positioning bosses that are at the bottom of the intake bolting locations that fit into the holes in the head side, you have to grind those down to get it to seat properly.
The intake opening ports would have to be opened up in the intake to where the seals are, you would have to remove the seals and epoxy the seal grooves.
You would then need to use the intake gaskets from L92 truck intake to get it to seal up.
You can make the port match pretty good but the bottom of the port would have a rather large transition area.
To smooth out the airflow, you would need to expoxy a ramp into the bottom of the intake runner at the opening.
A FAST intake would be much better to use since it is the best flowing thing out there at this time but if they are coming out with a car style L92 intake then I would just wait and use it.
It can be done is all I am saying..
I might post up some pics but it'll be a few days.
The intake, I bolted a stock LS1 intake up to my block with the L92 heads that I got from Scoggin Dickey and it bolts up just fine. If you look at the bottom of the intake on the head mating sealing flange, there are some positioning bosses that are at the bottom of the intake bolting locations that fit into the holes in the head side, you have to grind those down to get it to seat properly.
The intake opening ports would have to be opened up in the intake to where the seals are, you would have to remove the seals and epoxy the seal grooves.
You would then need to use the intake gaskets from L92 truck intake to get it to seal up.
You can make the port match pretty good but the bottom of the port would have a rather large transition area.
To smooth out the airflow, you would need to expoxy a ramp into the bottom of the intake runner at the opening.
A FAST intake would be much better to use since it is the best flowing thing out there at this time but if they are coming out with a car style L92 intake then I would just wait and use it.
It can be done is all I am saying..
I might post up some pics but it'll be a few days.
06-28-2006, 11:18 PM
#112
TECH Addict
iTrader: (36)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Murphy, Tx
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Slicknic
The 1.6 LS1 valve is the same 8mm in dia. and the same length so it's a no brainer. With the 1.6 valve on my 4.005" LS2 block, I had .038 clearance between the valve and the side of the cylinder wall.
The intake, I bolted a stock LS1 intake up to my block with the L92 heads that I got from Scoggin Dickey and it bolts up just fine. If you look at the bottom of the intake on the head mating sealing flange, there are some positioning bosses that are at the bottom of the intake bolting locations that fit into the holes in the head side, you have to grind those down to get it to seat properly.
The intake opening ports would have to be opened up in the intake to where the seals are, you would have to remove the seals and epoxy the seal grooves.
You would then need to use the intake gaskets from L92 truck intake to get it to seal up.
You can make the port match pretty good but the bottom of the port would have a rather large transition area.
To smooth out the airflow, you would need to expoxy a ramp into the bottom of the intake runner at the opening.
A FAST intake would be much better to use since it is the best flowing thing out there at this time but if they are coming out with a car style L92 intake then I would just wait and use it.
It can be done is all I am saying..
I might post up some pics but it'll be a few days.
The intake, I bolted a stock LS1 intake up to my block with the L92 heads that I got from Scoggin Dickey and it bolts up just fine. If you look at the bottom of the intake on the head mating sealing flange, there are some positioning bosses that are at the bottom of the intake bolting locations that fit into the holes in the head side, you have to grind those down to get it to seat properly.
The intake opening ports would have to be opened up in the intake to where the seals are, you would have to remove the seals and epoxy the seal grooves.
You would then need to use the intake gaskets from L92 truck intake to get it to seal up.
You can make the port match pretty good but the bottom of the port would have a rather large transition area.
To smooth out the airflow, you would need to expoxy a ramp into the bottom of the intake runner at the opening.
A FAST intake would be much better to use since it is the best flowing thing out there at this time but if they are coming out with a car style L92 intake then I would just wait and use it.
It can be done is all I am saying..
I might post up some pics but it'll be a few days.
07-07-2006, 12:14 AM
#119
Originally Posted by adams2003
Any news Richard?
I'm close to finishing up with the ALL Pro LSW (LS7 style) head program. I'll be starting some preliminary work on the L92 heads in the next couple of weeks. I'm gathering up some of the related valve train parts for mock up and will post some info as it becomes available.
Stay tuned...............
Richard
