Max stroke on a L92 with stock sleeve?
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Max stroke on a L92 with stock sleeve? I've read claims that the L92 is almost identicle to the LS1/LS2 block, so I was wondering if the sleeve was the same length? Or in other words, what's the most stroke that the L92 will accept with the stock sleeve and custom rods/pistons?
I would imagin 4.125 would be the BIGGEST size commonly used, but I am sure that one day dwon the road a 4.25 or something in that area will be made to work.
4" will still be the most common size, and will have the best bore to stroke ratio IMO.
4" will still be the most common size, and will have the best bore to stroke ratio IMO.
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let me know the sleeve length and I'll let you know. Let me know the sleeve length, and I'll tell you about the piston side of things. As far as the oil galleys or lobe/rod clearance...that's not going to be easy. -Brian Nutter-Wiseco
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JZ'sTA, what do you mean best stroke to bore ratio?
briannutter, if you were directing that to me, I don't have a block in hand yet. So I don't know what the sleeve length is. What did you mean in your second sentence?
briannutter, if you were directing that to me, I don't have a block in hand yet. So I don't know what the sleeve length is. What did you mean in your second sentence?
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Well if I can verify that the LS2 and L92 have the same length sleeves, then that should tell me what I could run because there has been a few combinations that have been built using the LS2 block. Right?
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So isn't that my answer right there? Find out the max stroke for the LS2 and that'll be the same for the L92?
How much is taken out when finish hone the bore? If the bore is 4.065" stock, took out .005" which would put me at 4.07" and use a 4.100" crank, that would produce a 427 cu in motor.
How much is taken out when finish hone the bore? If the bore is 4.065" stock, took out .005" which would put me at 4.07" and use a 4.100" crank, that would produce a 427 cu in motor.
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Why hone the block when it should come with a finish hone from the factory? Save the hone for a rebuild, unless you feel the 1/2 cube you gain will make that much of a diffrence. If you just want a "427", then just call it a 427. Mines a 453, but I call it a 454.
As for the block, you need to let someone get there hands on one so we can see what there about. I'm sure most parts will interchange no problem, but there's always the chance GM threw something in there that might cause a problem with a long stroke. There's more to it than just sleeve legnth. Don't be like the LS2 intake guys who couldn't wait to pre order one. Then they got them and they were POS's.
As for the block, you need to let someone get there hands on one so we can see what there about. I'm sure most parts will interchange no problem, but there's always the chance GM threw something in there that might cause a problem with a long stroke. There's more to it than just sleeve legnth. Don't be like the LS2 intake guys who couldn't wait to pre order one. Then they got them and they were POS's. Thread Starter
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I didn't know they had a finish hone from the factory. I thought all blocks had to be "cleaned" up. I'm not trying to build a certain cubic inch motor as in a 427. I just wanted to put as much stroke as possible without changing the bore as I can't afford to resleeve right now.
finish honing The blocks are finish honed from the factory. What you want to do is get the block vibratory stress relieved then have it honed again with deck plates and mains torqued to spec. You may end up .005" over on the bore (order .005" over pistons if that is the case) but the cylinders will now be round and stay round.
Steve
Steve
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
I didn't know they had a finish hone from the factory. I thought all blocks had to be "cleaned" up. I'm not trying to build a certain cubic inch motor as in a 427. I just wanted to put as much stroke as possible without changing the bore as I can't afford to resleeve right now.
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Steve Demirjian
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I've got the block in hand. It will accept LSX crank shafts. 4" cranks seem to be the most popular stroke. Since the L92 block has the same sleeve length as the LS1/LS2, should I go with more stroke or stick with the 4"?
I would stick with the 4". With a bigger crank it wont be able to rev as freely, and you do have a race car. with a 4.125 crank with that bore would it be a 430 something cube.
Thomas
Thomas
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With a 4.07 (4.065/.005" honed) and 4.125" stroke, equals 429 cu. in.
A member above mentioned that if I stick with the 4" stroke, it will have the best stroke to bore ratio, but I have no idea what the means.
A member above mentioned that if I stick with the 4" stroke, it will have the best stroke to bore ratio, but I have no idea what the means.
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
With a 4.07 (4.065/.005" honed) and 4.125" stroke, equals 429 cu. in.
A member above mentioned that if I stick with the 4" stroke, it will have the best stroke to bore ratio, but I have no idea what the means.
A member above mentioned that if I stick with the 4" stroke, it will have the best stroke to bore ratio, but I have no idea what the means.
Nate
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Well I really didn't want to mess with the bore because if I stick with what it comes with and something were to ever happen in the future, I would still have room to clean it up/bore it. Stroke is what I wanted to know if I should go more with.
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i think what someone means by equal bore and stroke is the motor is more square'd 4.0X4.0 or 4.1X4.1. something to do with having a bore and stroke that is equal allows the motor to be more balanced. but there are many engines that dont have equal bore and stroke that spin up just fine. if it were me and if i were building all over again i would have gone with a 4.030 X 4.100 crank on my LS2. if i were to do a L92 i would go for max out on the first build 4.080 X 4.125. worst case is a set of new pistons and another block in the future. Whats the chances of you roasting all 8 pistons and cracking the block?
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Regarding the block itself guys, i have a couple of questions regarding the quality. I read on another forum that cylinders were .120 thick on one side and .040 on the other. Also apparently there is ALOT of deburring that has to be done. How did you guys find the quality of the shipped block to be? Were these GMPP blocks?
