Eagle Crank / Rods? Need your opinions
12-05-2006, 11:41 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by BOWTIE
From what I have read on here, Erik summed it up the best. It sounds like the Eagle forged LSX cranks are much better quality than their cast old school cranks, but are not as well finished as the the Callies. From what I have heard and seen with their cast replacement and stroker cranks for the old school SBC, I would not even consider using them. It is my understanding the cranks are cast and forged in China and then shipped to Cali for machining. I guess they put their more experienced grinders on the forged line and the rookies on the cast lines. Personally I would spend the extra cash and get the Callies stuff myself for the weight savings and piece of mind.
12-06-2006, 06:01 AM
#22
This wasn't an LS1 crank, but I vote for Callies so I know what I'm getting unlike the unlucky guy that posted these pics. As Erik said the finishing leaves a lot to be desired on the Chineese cranks where the Callies are balance, clean, install, sleep at night.
12-06-2006, 08:42 AM
#23
FormerVendor
What kind of crank is that? That's not an Eagle LS1 crank for sure. They don't have any cranks like that one that I have seen? Is it an import car crank? I have seen those people blow up everything. I've also seen all numbers of cranks break at the front on blower stuff.
This wasn't an LS1 crank, but I vote for Callies so I know what I'm getting unlike the unlucky guy that posted these pics. As Erik said the finishing leaves a lot to be desired on the Chineese cranks where the Callies are balance, clean, install, sleep at night.
Originally Posted by Quick Carl
This wasn't an LS1 crank, but I vote for Callies so I know what I'm getting unlike the unlucky guy that posted these pics. As Erik said the finishing leaves a lot to be desired on the Chineese cranks where the Callies are balance, clean, install, sleep at night.
12-06-2006, 10:30 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
Looks like a Mustang Cobra, since they are notorious for shearing the front of the crankshaft off with aftermarket crank pulleys.
12-06-2006, 11:18 AM
#26
That was a low HP NA Honda crank that broke after a hundred miles . The bearings were shown good, so it had to be a crack at the radius that propagated or just a flaw in the material. It could just be 1 in a million, but I don't want it to be yours or mine. I just keep the pic to show that you have to trust the manufacturer that the material is poured and forged properly since there is no way to analyze each part without cutting it up and sending it to a lab for chemical analysis.
12-06-2006, 11:37 AM
#27
Originally Posted by racer7088
Eagle is the least expensive but will work fine and that's after using them in like several hundred engines. The worst problem I have seen is that leaking through the rear of the crank like LostCause said. That has been fixed with their currently shipping cranks and they all come with pilot bearings too as well but you need to be careful on the older ones and make sure you clean and seal that freeze plug behind the pilot bearing with silicone yourself. The Eagle H-Beam for LS1 are very nice and have 7/17 ARP 8740 Cap Screws which are more than you need but nice.
The Callies is more expensive but better in construction and quality control. The newer 2.000 crankpin Dragonslayer is also very light compared to almost any crank and is a very nice piece that I am using as much as possible when weight matters like on NA only stuff especially. The Callies Compstar rods are like works of art and all come with ARP2000 rod bolts which is crazy overkill but still very nice. I think the Callies stuff is as good or better than the Lunati stuff for a much better price so it's hard to ever go wrong with the Callies products either.
The Callies is more expensive but better in construction and quality control. The newer 2.000 crankpin Dragonslayer is also very light compared to almost any crank and is a very nice piece that I am using as much as possible when weight matters like on NA only stuff especially. The Callies Compstar rods are like works of art and all come with ARP2000 rod bolts which is crazy overkill but still very nice. I think the Callies stuff is as good or better than the Lunati stuff for a much better price so it's hard to ever go wrong with the Callies products either.
12-06-2006, 11:46 AM
#28
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
if it were my motor, and I wanted good stuff in it...Callies would be my crank. Eagle stuff is made in China. I dont care for chinese products except the food. For my rods, id be using Manley H-beams. They are very underrated on what they will actually handle...check that stuff out good.
12-06-2006, 12:19 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
funny that callies stuff is made in china too.
Callies cranks are forged in the US, and 100% machined and inspected in our plant in Fostoria, Ohio.
12-06-2006, 02:23 PM
#33
Originally Posted by Bill's 02 Z-28 SS
Hi Folks
Regardless if the crank is a Callies or an Eagle, do they require addition work like balancing?
thanks
Bill
Regardless if the crank is a Callies or an Eagle, do they require addition work like balancing?
thanks
Bill
12-06-2006, 03:00 PM
#34
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It's as allways buy the best you can afford but the Eagle stuff for the most part is good yeah it's Chineese steel but hell you'd be suprised where that stuff is used. As long as you do like theses guys said get it balanced and checked by a shop you trust and you will be fine for the goals 75% of the guys around here are looking for. Another thing think about this if you build the greatest motor in the world on paper it'll stay right there on paper unless you got more money that most of us.
12-06-2006, 03:06 PM
#35
FormerVendor
Originally Posted by TrekGTO
The newer 2.000 crankpin Dragonslayer What does 2.000 crankpin refer to? Was thinking of ordering 4” Dragonslayer
The 2.000 is the older small journal chevy size that a lot of race engines use which is a little smaller in diameter than the normal 2.100 that is stock on a regular small block chevy or LS1. Callies also has matching 2.000 small journal rods that are lighter and just as strong. It is a nice weight savings.
