A builder builds, a machinist hones the cylinders

 

Rings that are too hard will also result in an oil burner.....

I built a forged SBC (327) in my first car (Monza) when I was 16, didn't burn a drop of oil between changes.

 

You, me and the man on the moon may agree or disagree with what I'm about to say, doesn't really matter to me, I know the facts.

If a builder chooses a shitty machinist, than that builder fucked up the build.

As always, my previous post was not understood. So, here goes again. A builder must start an engine build way before the parts are there and way before a tool is ever touched. Using a good machinist is perhaps the most important part of a build.

PERIOD

Didn't my pilot analogy make sense?




.

 

Man, I can do this all day long...........improper build.

Congrats on a PROPER engine build. I love this.......


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After reading all of this thread... I just cant wait to get my forged iron block... The mod bug is being very annoying right now, but I have learned a whole bunch from this thread, keep it up guys! Man i love ls1tech...

 

I've got an SLP 402 with AFR 225 heads,Eagle crank and Manley forged pistons and rods. 11:1 compression, all factory intake system, 228/230 Comp cam with .595" lift, LG LongTube headers and factory TI mufflers. 481rwhp and 489rwt.

The engine now has about 3500 miles on it and was carefully broken in. I am not a neophyte when it comes to performance motors or cars. I have built several cars from the ground up and assembled more than a few motors making roughly the same power as this SLP402.

My hp numbers are good, even my highway mileage at 75mph is 26-28mpg.
BUT... I do not like the apparent piston slap and I really don't like going through a quart of 10-30 M1 every 750 miles!! The cars sounds like a bloody diesel EVEN AFTER IT IS WARMED UP. When accelerating up a hill in 6th it really sounds like a diesel. This is not detonation. I have HP Tuner, no knock recorded whatsoever. I can increase the timing and induce minor knock above 23-24 degrees advance WOT so I know it is not a faulty knock sensor.

I am inclined to agree that the 4" stroke really exposes a lot of piston skirt which makes sense that this would aggravate piston slap. A factory LS7 short block is sure tempting. I would probably seriously consider this if changing out these engines wasn't such a PITA. A good friend of mine has a '07 ZO6. His 4" stroke forged engine is smooth as silk. I am royally bummed that mine is not. For the $$ I should've just bought a new Z, but because a valve spring broke at 78,000 miles and toasted my engine my options were somewhat limited. I thought building a C6ZO6 equivalent with my C5Z made sense. My car still looks like the day I drove it off the showroom floor. I love the power, but it burns oil like and old farm truck and doesn't sound much better except at WOT (which is nothing short of fabulous!)

Would going to 50wt oil help? Living in San Jose, CA I don't have sub zero startup concerns. I know not to push a cold engine and know that doing so with heavy oil can blow a filter right off the block. I always used 50 wt Valvoline in my 69 L88. By the way, the factory 427 L88 made virtually the same rwhp and used a lot less oil even with its forged pistons.

Informed comments would be greatly appreciated!

Chuck

 

God himself could build the engine. If he gets bad rings (metallurgy) it would still burn oil......It isnt like you can brinell test a set of rings. Ill admit the odds of this happening arent very high but I have seen it happen.

 

Just so you know, by taking the term "builder" so broadly, you have defined any point you might have had out of existence. Obviously, if "build" includes parts selection, parts quality, assembly, machining, and everything else, then yes, by definition an oil-burning engine indicates a "bad builder." But then you haven't really said anything.

 

You may as well give it up with that dude. He is never wrong. He's the same guy who said about titanium rods, and I quote "its a marketing tool so Vette owners can say "I have Ti rods in my engine". And so cheezball car salesman can say, "This engine has Ti rods." and "I don't see why anyone would want those weaker Ti rods". Of course he shows no test that proves they are weaker, his word is the word of God. And this was after a shop like Katech said they did countless days of spinng them and dyno time lol. So he knows even more than them. My "builder" didn't pick my parts, machine anything or even tune it.

 

Hehe, who says I'm talking to him.

Anyhow, I'm not saying he's wrong. But in a way, he's worse than wrong. He's not even wrong.

 

Forged 347 built by Rapid. No oil burning issues here.

 

So with what's been said in here...are you guys implying that all LS2 402 strokers are fundamentally going to burn oil because they use a 4.0" stroke crankshaft?

 

No not at all.

 

ok...so after reading most of this thread about cranks, bore size, and sleeve length, just hypethetical senario here, but what combo of crank, rod, and sleeves would you recomend for building something like...say a 408?!

 

Does it have to be a 408??? Why not just get a 402 (LS2) from SDPC or TSP???

 

well..i got a 6.0 iron block thats gettin bored, and i got a good deal on it, so i figured i'd just start a budjet 408 and see where it gets me just curious on what you would put in there if it was your motor

 

I have a forged 383 that (pauses to knock on wood) has yet to give me any issues. The scary part is that I took a chance and bought it used. There are many factors that will differentiate a "good" engine from a "bad" engine, but IMO whoever does the final assembly/tuning will make or break the deal. A good shop should be able to steer the most stubborn buyer away from potentially disastrous combinations of parts...

Quickin: Funny you should mention Mike Norris as his patience kept me from trying to get too crazy with my old H/C combo...

 

I have about 20k miles on my HPE 383. Runs like a top and burns less oil than stock. My oil consumption is via the PCV. ~ 1/2 qt per 3k miles.

 

I agree with you