TINKRD

iTrader: (27)

6.0 iron block

i've heard somewhere that the general consensus is its bad to have more stroke then bore?

any truth to this?

the block is already bored to 4.060 and by adding a 4.125 crank it would be a 427ci

adding a 4.00 crank would make it a 414ci.

going to be a 8:1 FI motor.

Big-DEN

Sometimes more stroke is the only direction you can go, and as we established on this an d many other BBS's - that if the only change you can have is to increase stroke lenght - power WILL come up, it might not be proportionate to cubic inch increase but it comes up, TQ comes up proportionate to TQ increase.

Lots of stroke is also good for allowing you to run larger camshafts and heads and keep the RPM levels down.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

IMO, more stroke than bore isn't a bad thing, but increasing bore is better than increasing stroke if additional displacement is your goal. Additional stroke usually results in clearance issues and additional stress on the piston/rod assembly due to the increased acceleration of the components during the cycles. My only concern with your plan is the integrity of the block seeing it has been bored .060" over and you're planning on using FI with it.

racer7088

Stroke is Good and Bore is Good with and without each other but even better when you have both!

Order 66

Fastest 6 speed car is Tosto who runs a larger stroke thsan bore. He has a iron block 421. Revs to 8000 rpm. So the myths of large stoke wont rev are no true. With the quailty rods now you can rev to the moon. Also all the big moutain motors run way more stroke than bore. They dont lack any power.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

I agree!

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

Erik, is the 4.125 crank a better choice vs the 4.0 crank? if so why?

racer7088

It just depends on how much of a ring stack you need. If you can fit it the bigger stroke is better. With the stock liners at barely 5.500 long you have to really compress things but it can work with a custome piston. I would only want it NA at that crank and sleeve length though probably.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Exactly what I was going to say. With the 6.0 block, you have no way of increasing the bore legnth like the aluminum block/sleeves. This will compress the ring stack, which may be ok for N/A applications, but isn't going to last a long time in a forced application. For this particular build, you need to stick with the 4" crank and add another pound or 2 of boost to make up for the displacement.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

I WOULD NOT go with a any stroke bigger than 4.00 in your ironblock that is bored over 4.060 and the reason is b/c i had a top tuner build me this EXACT motor 3 years ago and it FAILED MISERABLY with less than 4500 miles as the crank welds on the 4.125 CALLIES reluctor wheel broke along with the crank welds and the motor has a sig. oil consumption problem and this was on a 100% N/A motor.

The tuner told me that one of the MAIN PROBLEMS with the reluctor wheel breaking, etc., was that the geometry of the motor was off with a 4.125 stroke in a 6 liter ironblock bored 4.060 over.

Just telling you what i was told and that this was a living NIGHTMARE for me and I would stock to a 4.00 crank and 414 cubes ESPECIALLY if your planning f/i.

racer7088

Wow I have done several and the people didn't seem to ever have any probs like that at all. A stock 5.4 Ford has 4.165 inches of stroke and a cylinder not way longer and they even run the super charger on that block in the Lightning but I am still scared to go that far. I am mostly scared of the ring lands getting too thin fpor NOS use really.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

My motor was the first one that this particular big named tuner had done (427 ironblock bored .4060 with Callies 4.125 crank) and it probably came down to them pioneering on my motor and they just did not build it right!!

tlaselva

And your not the only one with a reluctor wheel issue on a Callies 4.125.

My 447ci motor after 2500kms developed a reluctor wheel issue.
Computer would loose sense of the wheel at ~5000rpm.

Not sure if it's the Callies crank, or just the large 4.125 stroke. . .

Motor's back at the builder. Not sure if it's wise to just replace the crank and run the risk of it re-developing again.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

OUCH TONY, sorry to hear that and that really sucks and surprises me given your engine builder, etc. (but **** does happen) and at least your with a great tuner who will stand behind their product 100%. Did you car at around 5000 rpm just shut of (like turning the key off) and the backfire violenty and throw no codes? If yes, this is EXACTLY what my symptom was and it really sucked.
I would not touch a 4.125 CALLIES CRANK again with a 10 foot pole when i build another N/A big cubed LSX motor in the future and my experience with that really sucked!!!

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

I think this is more limited to the Callies cranks in general. Back when I put a 4" in my 383, I had heard of others having this issue on those too. I'm sure this has since been resolved, but the cure back then was to add more welds to the wheel.

Bandit28

iTrader: (28)

More stroke generally yeilds more torque. But should have negative effect on how you perform

vtanju

iTrader: (2)

hi guys,

first of all i would not bore an iron block to 4.060, way too thing material remaining between the two liners.

as for the the callies reluctor wheel problem it has absolutely NOTHING todo with the stroke of the crankshaft. i think it was just assembled incorrectly at callies, i had the same problem. the reluctor was off(retarded) about 10 degrees compared to a stock crank reluctor and it was also off centre a bit from the crankshaft sensor. the reluctor had no welds on it. i took the engine out corrected the problem without removing the crank, welded the reluctor at 6 locations made sure the gap between the reluctor and the senor is at 0.35mm max. now the engine is fine.

i suggest you do the same and dont throw away a good crank.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

That is great info regarding the screwed up Callies LS1 crank. That being said, as long as one sonic tests the ironblock to make sure there is enough meat to bore it .4060 then they would be good to go for a N/A motor or maybe 100 shot of N20 Tops. I agree with you though and therefore if one is going to do this THEY MUST have the block SONIC TESTED and I would stick with 4.030 overbore if your going with F/I!!