Want to build a 427 - what else do I need?
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
Want to build a 427 - what else do I need? I am trying to figure out a parts list / budget for an engine upgrade and want to know what else I need to buy that cannot be used from my LS2.
Here is what I am planning:
427 short block (LS7 block/Callies dragonslayer crank/compstar rods)
ETP LS7 heads
LG 1 7/8 headers - full 3" system with cats / Bullets
DTE stage 3 rear 3.73 gears
LS7 clutch with aluminum flywheel
Electric water pump
160* t-stat
Gaskets
Tune
Here is what I am planning:
427 short block (LS7 block/Callies dragonslayer crank/compstar rods)
ETP LS7 heads
LG 1 7/8 headers - full 3" system with cats / Bullets
DTE stage 3 rear 3.73 gears
LS7 clutch with aluminum flywheel
Electric water pump
160* t-stat
Gaskets
Tune
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
I was planning on using a wet oil system. Will the ls2 parts work sufficiently? I am actually buying a 4.11 rear, but after you factor in the height of my 345/30/19 tires compared to stock, it factors out to 4.05 -ish.
Last edited by john_sblendorio; Jan 21, 2007 at 06:02 PM.
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You can use your C6 pan and a lS2 oil pump. You could save some serious $ with L92 heads which would let you use L76 intake and LS2 TB. Might flow close to same if you clean up exhaust ports.
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
Originally Posted by See5
You can use your C6 pan and a lS2 oil pump. You could save some serious $ with L92 heads which would let you use L76 intake and LS2 TB. Might flow close to same if you clean up exhaust ports.
I personally think your way over spending for minimal gains on some of it.
Go with Eagle crank/rods and save quite a bit of money there for just as good parts for what your doing. Eagle stuff has made 1000+ rwhp with no problems. You can buy the rods and crank for $1200 total.
CNC L92 heads will save you another couple grand over the Ls7's
Go with a steel flywheel unless this is a road race car that wont see alot of street duty. It'll feel alot better starting/stopping in traffic, plus itll hold up to being driven on the street better.
I wouldnt waste the money on an electric water pump in general...its such minimal if any gains for way to much money. I would only run it if this was a race car.
Go with the L76 intake/injector combo.
If this was a N/A street car, I'd be using your LS2 block with a 4.100" stroke crank and make same ball park horsepower/torque and save ALOT of money.
I think you could save $5-7k over what your looking to spend and make just as much torque and maybe 20 less horsepower with how I would build it. That money could be spent alot better other places
Go with Eagle crank/rods and save quite a bit of money there for just as good parts for what your doing. Eagle stuff has made 1000+ rwhp with no problems. You can buy the rods and crank for $1200 total.
CNC L92 heads will save you another couple grand over the Ls7's
Go with a steel flywheel unless this is a road race car that wont see alot of street duty. It'll feel alot better starting/stopping in traffic, plus itll hold up to being driven on the street better.
I wouldnt waste the money on an electric water pump in general...its such minimal if any gains for way to much money. I would only run it if this was a race car.
Go with the L76 intake/injector combo.
If this was a N/A street car, I'd be using your LS2 block with a 4.100" stroke crank and make same ball park horsepower/torque and save ALOT of money.
I think you could save $5-7k over what your looking to spend and make just as much torque and maybe 20 less horsepower with how I would build it. That money could be spent alot better other places
I'll be interested in hearing how this works out. This is exactly what I am looking at doing (with a small cam). What cam is in the one that you are tuning?
Originally Posted by See5
Have not dynoed yet but am tuning a LS7 wet sump with ported L92s. The head porter said the exhaust side was better than LS7 heads so I bet it will be a comparable setup.
Originally Posted by VortechC5
I'll be interested in hearing how this works out. This is exactly what I am looking at doing (with a small cam). What cam is in the one that you are tuning?
So far I think it is going to work great. Was worried about the 106 but think it is going to idle well and not buck. Quite snorty.
Originally Posted by motorbuilt
I personally think your way over spending for minimal gains on some of it.
Go with Eagle crank/rods and save quite a bit of money there for just as good parts for what your doing. Eagle stuff has made 1000+ rwhp with no problems. You can buy the rods and crank for $1200 total.
CNC L92 heads will save you another couple grand over the Ls7's
Go with a steel flywheel unless this is a road race car that wont see alot of street duty. It'll feel alot better starting/stopping in traffic, plus itll hold up to being driven on the street better.
I wouldnt waste the money on an electric water pump in general...its such minimal if any gains for way to much money. I would only run it if this was a race car.
Go with the L76 intake/injector combo.
If this was a N/A street car, I'd be using your LS2 block with a 4.100" stroke crank and make same ball park horsepower/torque and save ALOT of money.
I think you could save $5-7k over what your looking to spend and make just as much torque and maybe 20 less horsepower with how I would build it. That money could be spent alot better other places
Go with Eagle crank/rods and save quite a bit of money there for just as good parts for what your doing. Eagle stuff has made 1000+ rwhp with no problems. You can buy the rods and crank for $1200 total.
CNC L92 heads will save you another couple grand over the Ls7's
Go with a steel flywheel unless this is a road race car that wont see alot of street duty. It'll feel alot better starting/stopping in traffic, plus itll hold up to being driven on the street better.
I wouldnt waste the money on an electric water pump in general...its such minimal if any gains for way to much money. I would only run it if this was a race car.
Go with the L76 intake/injector combo.
If this was a N/A street car, I'd be using your LS2 block with a 4.100" stroke crank and make same ball park horsepower/torque and save ALOT of money.
I think you could save $5-7k over what your looking to spend and make just as much torque and maybe 20 less horsepower with how I would build it. That money could be spent alot better other places
Totally agree.
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
I was thinking that I would leave my long block in tact and either store it or sell it if I needed the cash.
I suppose that I could find a cheap used LS2 block and save some serious cash compared to my original configuration, but how much hp am I leaving on the table?
What kind of output would you expect from the following builds?
1. Good - LS2/Eagle/Eagle 4x4.1 (412ci)
2. Better - LS7/Eagle/Eagle 4.125x4.1 (438ci)
3. Best - LS7/Callies/Callies 4.125x4.125 (441ci)
4. Rockstar - LS7x tall deck 4.5x4.125 (481ci)
I suppose that I could find a cheap used LS2 block and save some serious cash compared to my original configuration, but how much hp am I leaving on the table?
What kind of output would you expect from the following builds?
1. Good - LS2/Eagle/Eagle 4x4.1 (412ci)
2. Better - LS7/Eagle/Eagle 4.125x4.1 (438ci)
3. Best - LS7/Callies/Callies 4.125x4.125 (441ci)
4. Rockstar - LS7x tall deck 4.5x4.125 (481ci)
Last edited by john_sblendorio; Jan 22, 2007 at 10:22 AM.
Originally Posted by john_sblendorio
I was thinking that I would leave my long block in tact and either store it or sell it if I needed the cash.
I suppose that I could find a cheap used LS2 block and save some serious cash compared to my original configuration, but how much hp am I leaving on the table?
What kind of output would you expect from the following builds?
1. Good - LS2/Eagle/Eagle 4x4.1 (412ci)
2. Better - LS7/Eagle/Eagle 4.1x4.125 (438ci)
3. Best - LS7/Callies/Callies 4.125x4.125 (441ci)
4. Rockstar - LS7x tall deck 4.5x4.125 (481ci)
I suppose that I could find a cheap used LS2 block and save some serious cash compared to my original configuration, but how much hp am I leaving on the table?
What kind of output would you expect from the following builds?
1. Good - LS2/Eagle/Eagle 4x4.1 (412ci)
2. Better - LS7/Eagle/Eagle 4.1x4.125 (438ci)
3. Best - LS7/Callies/Callies 4.125x4.125 (441ci)
4. Rockstar - LS7x tall deck 4.5x4.125 (481ci)
I guess:
1) 550 rwhp/ 520 rwtq
2) 565 rwhp/ 525 rwtq
3) 575 rwhp/ 540 rqtq
4) 1 Million Horsepower.
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
Originally Posted by motorbuilt
On all these results, lets go realistic real world and not "the highest #'s weve seen posted for a combo"
I guess:
1) 550 rwhp/ 520 rwtq
2) 565 rwhp/ 525 rwtq
3) 575 rwhp/ 540 rqtq
4) 1 Million Horsepower.
I guess:
1) 550 rwhp/ 520 rwtq
2) 565 rwhp/ 525 rwtq
3) 575 rwhp/ 540 rqtq
4) 1 Million Horsepower.
Thread Starter
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
I compiled a list of parts needed to build a complete engine swap. (just in case anyone else is doing the same thing) The LS2 parts are the bolt-ons I would take from my engine. I wanted to leave the long block in tact for resale or re-installation.
New parts:
Block
Crank
Rods
Pistons
Rings
Rod Bearings
Main Bearings
Cam Bearings
Main Bolts
LS7 Engine Cover, LH
LS7 Engine Cover, RH
Timing Set
Engine Bolt Set
Camshaft
Valve Lifters
Gasket Set
Valley Cover
Lifter Trays
Pushrods
Heads
Intake Valves
Exhaust Valves
Valve Springs
Valve Spring Inserts
Rocker Arms
Valve Seals
Valve Stem Locks
Valve Spring Retainers
Head Studs
Injectors
Fuel Rails
Intake Manifold
Water Pump
Flywheel Bolts
Flywheel
Parts from the LS2
Trottle Body
throttle body attachment fastener
throttle body attachment seal
MAP sensor
Alternator
Alternator bracket
Starter
Harmonic Balancer
Coil Packs
Plug Wires
Spark Plugs
Sensors
Serpentine Belt
Power Steering Pump
Power Steering Pump Bracket
Hoses
Oil Pump
Oil Pan
Oil Pan Gasket
Oil Pick-up
Windage Tray
Dipstick Tube
Dipstick
Valve Cover Gaskets
Valve Covers
Valve Cover Cap
New parts:
Block
Crank
Rods
Pistons
Rings
Rod Bearings
Main Bearings
Cam Bearings
Main Bolts
LS7 Engine Cover, LH
LS7 Engine Cover, RH
Timing Set
Engine Bolt Set
Camshaft
Valve Lifters
Gasket Set
Valley Cover
Lifter Trays
Pushrods
Heads
Intake Valves
Exhaust Valves
Valve Springs
Valve Spring Inserts
Rocker Arms
Valve Seals
Valve Stem Locks
Valve Spring Retainers
Head Studs
Injectors
Fuel Rails
Intake Manifold
Water Pump
Flywheel Bolts
Flywheel
Parts from the LS2
Trottle Body
throttle body attachment fastener
throttle body attachment seal
MAP sensor
Alternator
Alternator bracket
Starter
Harmonic Balancer
Coil Packs
Plug Wires
Spark Plugs
Sensors
Serpentine Belt
Power Steering Pump
Power Steering Pump Bracket
Hoses
Oil Pump
Oil Pan
Oil Pan Gasket
Oil Pick-up
Windage Tray
Dipstick Tube
Dipstick
Valve Cover Gaskets
Valve Covers
Valve Cover Cap
