Best crate ls2 402-418 $ to HP?
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Just wanting to hear your guys opinion on the best horsepower to dollar crate engines available that make around 475-500 rwhp but without busting my budget. It's gonna be in a stock weight, stock geared M6 WS6 so I want something that has good torque down low too. What are some of you guys running out there? Oh yeah, and this is a pump gas street/strip car.
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Well, it is somewhat flexible (I just want the damn thing on the road and reliable) but I would really like around 5000-6000. Right now I have a H/C 346 but the intake valves have been hitting the pistons. If I can't find something in the budget I'm looking for I'll just change out the pistons and valves...
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I don't know how many "crate engines" your going to find in that price range making that kind of power. that's still (NICE) shortblock territory. I just ordered a 408 shortblock myself. At first I was considering budget first, but after really think of what I want, I decided I don't want to spend a mound of cash on this build and still be left wanting more. From what I've heard / figured out, if you're going to do a stroker you better be ready to part with that big number between 8-10k (that's budget by the way... and minus the cost of a rear end). Just letting you know what I have come to conclude
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There's really a ton of different options you can choose from!
We currently have:
347s
402s
408s
etc.. In stock & ready to ship! Call me when you get some free time & we can discuss possible options!
We currently have:
347s
402s
408s
etc.. In stock & ready to ship! Call me when you get some free time & we can discuss possible options!
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Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
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Our L92 HO will be releasing shortly and will be in the 550+ crank HP range. It will come fully controlled with our M-90 ECM and corresponding wiring harness. It will use variable valve timing and our Phaser Series camshaft designed to work with VVT. It will also come with the necessary parts to let your F-body switch to VVT and drive-by-wire, while keeping stock accesories. Pricing should be around $10,500 depending on the options you want. If 550+ HP isn't enough we also have a 415 L92 VVT and a LSX block 454X VVT. You can call for a full list of features and options or follow the link below:
http://www.mastmotorsports.com/turnk...main_flash.php
We are currently finishing this swap in our F-body test car.
Shaun
www.mastmotorsports.com
http://www.mastmotorsports.com/turnk...main_flash.php
We are currently finishing this swap in our F-body test car.
Shaun
www.mastmotorsports.com
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I have stretched my budget beyond the 5,000 to 6,000 target. I am looking for around 8,000 for a complete motor. But if I have to, I'll spend the extra dollar for having the best parts and having it done right. This is the situation I found myself in...
I bought a 98 WS6 with 91,000 miles, full suspension mods and h/c 346 with around 12,000 miles, with a ls7 clutch for 10k cash about 2 1/2 months ago. I figured it was a HELL of a deal, considering stock ones usually go for the same price. The engine was originally built by Agostino Racing (ARE) which I see must no longer be a sponsor. NO WONDER! They reused the stock gaskets (exhaust manifold gasket for headers!?), overtightened the headers so they are slightly warped, AND they used the stock pistons so with the aggressive cam that was in (it shook bad at a light) the intake valves hit, and looks like it bent the valves. I didn't realize it until pulling off the heads so the engine was running and looks like with a couple of little fixes should be fine.
So this is what I am considering doing...
1. Fix intake valves, put a smaller cam that won't have clearance issues and sell the motor. I have all confidence this thing could run 100,000+ miles with those things fixed.
2. Selling motor as-is and just get it out of the way so I can the car running.
3. Tear it apart and sell it peice by peice.
I guess no matter what, even with a poor build on the motor I still got a somewhat good deal with all the suspension goodies. And the motor is not shot by any means. I'm guessing that currently the motor makes around 500 at the flywheel and 420-435 @ the wheels. If anyone is interested in the motor after I make neccessary repairs let me know. It has a lot of good parts in it.
Could I just patch up the old motor and stick it back in? Yeah, but I'm convincing myself I want more cubes.
I bought a 98 WS6 with 91,000 miles, full suspension mods and h/c 346 with around 12,000 miles, with a ls7 clutch for 10k cash about 2 1/2 months ago. I figured it was a HELL of a deal, considering stock ones usually go for the same price. The engine was originally built by Agostino Racing (ARE) which I see must no longer be a sponsor. NO WONDER! They reused the stock gaskets (exhaust manifold gasket for headers!?), overtightened the headers so they are slightly warped, AND they used the stock pistons so with the aggressive cam that was in (it shook bad at a light) the intake valves hit, and looks like it bent the valves. I didn't realize it until pulling off the heads so the engine was running and looks like with a couple of little fixes should be fine.
So this is what I am considering doing...
1. Fix intake valves, put a smaller cam that won't have clearance issues and sell the motor. I have all confidence this thing could run 100,000+ miles with those things fixed.
2. Selling motor as-is and just get it out of the way so I can the car running.
3. Tear it apart and sell it peice by peice.
I guess no matter what, even with a poor build on the motor I still got a somewhat good deal with all the suspension goodies. And the motor is not shot by any means. I'm guessing that currently the motor makes around 500 at the flywheel and 420-435 @ the wheels. If anyone is interested in the motor after I make neccessary repairs let me know. It has a lot of good parts in it.
Could I just patch up the old motor and stick it back in? Yeah, but I'm convincing myself I want more cubes.
Last edited by transamman400; 05-23-2007 at 01:36 AM.
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Oh and here's some backround on the motor and the car...
98 Trans Am WS6 Blk/Blk M6 - Agostino Heads 296cfm @ .600 intake & 234 @ .600, Comp Cam XE-R 236/236 @.50 .602/.602 @.50 110LS, LS6 Intake, Ported TB, 30lb inj, Whisper Lid, Fast Toys Ramair, March underdrive pullies, Comp R lifters, Flowtech Longtubes, X-Pipe, Dynomax bullets dump @ axle, Cut outs, Lakewood LCA's, Lakewood adjustable PHB, BMR Trac-Pack, 17" rims, LS7 Clutch, Pressure Plate, LS2 Flywheel, Mcleod Adjustable Master, Slave Upgraded, BMR Ripper Shifter, Poly Trans Mount, 3.42 Gears
And yuck I remembered I need a new clutch too...owww...
98 Trans Am WS6 Blk/Blk M6 - Agostino Heads 296cfm @ .600 intake & 234 @ .600, Comp Cam XE-R 236/236 @.50 .602/.602 @.50 110LS, LS6 Intake, Ported TB, 30lb inj, Whisper Lid, Fast Toys Ramair, March underdrive pullies, Comp R lifters, Flowtech Longtubes, X-Pipe, Dynomax bullets dump @ axle, Cut outs, Lakewood LCA's, Lakewood adjustable PHB, BMR Trac-Pack, 17" rims, LS7 Clutch, Pressure Plate, LS2 Flywheel, Mcleod Adjustable Master, Slave Upgraded, BMR Ripper Shifter, Poly Trans Mount, 3.42 Gears
And yuck I remembered I need a new clutch too...owww...
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So what do you guys think? Any recomendations? I was thinking iron 408, seems to be one of the nicer options in my price range for the power. I don't remember what shop I talked to but they said 550 rwhp is not a problem out of a 408. So guys, leave me some phone numbers and I'll check out your offers and work out some business!
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Originally Posted by Phoenix_Master
Why are you going with iron? if you're not planning on feeding the motor high amounts of boost pressure then I see no reason for an Iron over an aluminum block.
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I don't need anything fancy. All I want is reliable horsepower and some extra cubes. This is a street car, so the extra 70 lbs or whatever of the iron block is no concern in a full weight WS6. I have no preference of iron vs. aluminum, if I had the choice I would go with aluminum but from what I see the iron 408 seems to be the cheaper route to 500 rwhp N/A, and price is a big concern because I'm restoring a 81 TA and I still gotta buy some aluminum heads for my 427 bbc and new ignition (I have an ancient points distributor). Any standout heads you guys know about for a street/strip bbc? I'm spinning it to about 6500 in a 3800 lb car, T-350 with a stock stall for now, hopefully swapping it for a 700r4 with around a 3000 stall. So I was thinking something small like around 275cc...sound about right?
But anyways...back to the 98...got too much stuff to think about...
What are your guys recomendations for clutches matched up to this? I'm looking for something that has the same feel as my LS7 and I definetely need to replace it.
But anyways...back to the 98...got too much stuff to think about...
What are your guys recomendations for clutches matched up to this? I'm looking for something that has the same feel as my LS7 and I definetely need to replace it.