1fstGM

iTrader: (13)

My BR7EF's were gapped at 33.

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

I run Autolite Racing AR93s and Rotella and GM EOS for break in, and Royal purple XPR 5W/20 for racing.

AshWS6

iTrader: (5)

Listen to Erik, TR6s shouldnt be in that car.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

How often are you changing your oil? If I'm going to be changing it every 50 or 100 passes, there's no sense in putting anything expensive in there.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

50 to 100 passes? You're nuts. I change my oil after EVERY trip to the track, wether I make 1 run or if I make 8. For the 20 bucks it costs me for 6 qts of castrol 20-50 and a napa gold #1522 filter, I just do it.

You leave oil in your motor for 50 to 100 passes you get what you deserve.

I think either you're trying to be cheap on WAY too many things with this priject of yours, or you have absolutely no clue as to what the maintenance schedule and cost of having a race car is..... which it is I don't know.

You really need to make a list of everything you think you should be doing with this car of yours after every run, and after every trip and ask if it is enough/are you missing anything, because I think you're way out of the loop on alot of things.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I'm just going off of what I've been told by my builder, that is all. Sure, this is my first race car, but I'm not trying to be cheap at all. I don't know and that's why I ask.

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

During break in I change the oil and cut the filter after the first heat cycle. Once it gets broken in I change it after 7 to 10 passes. It is cheap insurance to change the oil and cut the filter to see what is going on inside with the springs and bearings. Basicly after every weekend event. If I am going to an event I make sure it has fresh oil in it for the weekend. You need to make sure that you use racing oils and not street type oils, whatever you decide to use. The EPA has forced a lot of the oil companys to take the Zinc, and boron as that ruins cats. Basicly don't use anything that says API on the back as they are approved street oils.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

im with jl, i change mine all the time, i also put new plugs in every track trip. for 12 bucks it keeps it running perfect and cheep insurance.
good luck on the project, but plan on more work then you are now.

dirty howie

I am getting a SDPC 416 and I want to break it in RIGHT this time. My 402 lets 2/3 of a qt slip by the rings in 400 miles of freeway driving.

I think they recommend Rotella for a few thousand miles don't they? How many miles and oil changes did you go thru. Are you back to the synthetic yet??

DH

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So this Rotella that keeps being mentioned, are we talking about the diesel oil 15W40? I'm gona put a full 7 quarts of it in? Stock is 6, plus I have the Moroso pan which adds another quart. It should be 7, correct me if I'm wrong.

I should change it every track visit? I usually only get in about 3-5 passes in depending on how packed it is.

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

I would change it the first 3 oil changes quite often , and then you could go a little more. The amount of oil that that pan takes depends on your filter also , my setup took 9 quarts. I would never go more than 20 passes on your set up with out changing the oil even after the break in, but that is just my opinion. And yes it is Rotella 15/40 diesel oil.

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

I ran Rotella for 500 miles. Changed again with Rotella for another 1000 miles. I then switched to Valvoline Racing Oil (Not For Street Use) which also contains ZDP like Rotella for 1000 miles. I'm running 10-40 synthetic now. The car does not use a drop of oil that I can see and does not smoke at all.

dirty howie

Thanks......this sounds good.

What weight on the Valvoline did you use??

Did you run it hard from the get go or limit the rpm for first 500 miles. Did you try and keep temps down until the synthetic was used?????

I really want to have a non oil user like yours.

:cheeers:
DH

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

After a couple of heat cycles I drove it anyway I wanted to. I had a new RAM DD clutch in there so I wasn't pounding it on shifts but I pulled whatever RPM's I wanted to. I did sort of avoid constantly staying at one RPM for the first several hundred miles. I think the Valvoline Racing Oil was 10-40w. This is not a regular Valvoline dino oil. It says "NOT FOR STREET USE" on the can.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Where did you buy the Valvoline racing oil at?

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So I looked up these oils...

hrmm...$5 a quart for Valvoline VR1 or $13 a quart for RP VPR? If I'm going to be changing it every trip to the track, there's no point in putting that expensive of oil in it. Heck, even $5 a quart is kinda pricey for changing every 10 passes.

I already bought the plugs. I bought a set of 7s and 8s. I'm gona run the 8s first, then the 7s.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Good move on the plugs. I kinda agree with your point on the oil, which is why I run regular castrol 20-50. I may go to the vr1 valvolne oil next year, if I can find a way to get it in a 20 or 55 gallon drum. If I can get it in bulk that way, then I'm gonna go to that, if not, then I am going to stick to the regular castrol. With the interval's I change it at, I can't see it having any shortcomings.

dirty howie

I got some Rotella a year ago. It is sold by the gallon and it was VERY cheap.

Don't know if thats still the case or not.

I have seen the Valvoline Racing oil at Pepboys.


DH

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

If your going to spray it I would run 110-112 depending on the shot you plan on running. If your running na I wouldn't run more than 108, I doubt you need even that. Also tr-6's should work fine. I ran 12.5 on 93 all day long! Good luck.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Doh! I need to decide what fuel I'm going to run. I forgot about that. I'm gonna use TR8s then TR7s. If the 8s work, then I'll just stick with them. I wanna play it safe. I'll be using 10W30 Valvoline VR1 racing oil too.

What fuel would suit my engine best?

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp_01_fuels.html#unleaded