Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

In the past, I've used NGK TR-55 plugs and Royal Purple 5W30. That was with a 346 ci. 10.X:1 engine using 93 pump gas though. This is a much more radical setup using race gas and was wondering what you recommended. Thanks.

98CamZ28

iTrader: (31)

I'd start with tr6's and check them out, you might need to move one step colder still

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It sounds like you are building a very similar setup to what I am running. I run a 116 octane Torco race fuel, and I run a #8 NGK plug, and they come out looking perfect.

As for the oil, it depends on who built the motor and what the tolerances are set for, if it is a loose race build like mine is, I run 20-50 castrol strait non-synthetic motor oil, and I change it after every track trip. Coems out looking nice and clean, and I have good good oil pressure even when it's 100 degrees out and the motor is 100% hot.

Now alot of what oil you will run again, has to come from your engine builder. Everyone sets clearances different, so you will have to ask him what he set everything to and ask him what he reccommends for oil. to be 100% sure, but I am would imagine that it's built somewhat on the loose side being a race setup.

Don't try to skimp on the race gas either, get some good stuff, if you are at 13 to 1 get at least 114 octane to start. You might be able to get away with 112, but I wouldn't mess with anything less then that. It's only going to cost you power and potentially hurt something. When I started out I was trying ot get away with a 105 unleaded, and after I got over the race gas cost and went to the good stuff the car runs 10 times better and we were able to put some more timing to it and make a good bit more power.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I talked to my builder and he said on break in, that I could use any standard oil. Cheap stuff will work as it will be changed anyway prior to hitting a dyno or track. But after that, I could continue to use Royal Purple 5W-30 as I used to.

He recommended NGK TR-7 (cut back race plugs) not sure what that means.

Race unleaded, at least 100 octane.

He said the tolerances were normal performance clearances which fall into the OEM to loose tolerances.

13.5:1 was the compression ratio.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

i run 14.5-1 compression 427.
i run tr-6 plugs on motor, never had an issue.

i run tr 8's (cut back race plug ) with a 100 shot, and tr-9 race plugs on 200 shot.

i run 118 nos blend fuel, but could get away with 112 with 118 in the cell, but i was getting mixed up with fuel jugs so for the extra .75 cents a gallon, i just run 118.
i run a 5 w 30 cheep oil for the first 5 minits of run time. i then change the oil and filter to 5 30 again cheep stuff, and do a bunch of reving, tuning cycles ect ect (probably an hour worth of run time tops) then i go to Vavoline VR-1 racing oil 20w 50 (now with solid roller i run straight 50 weight)

this oil is in all the trailers of the big dogs, ihra and nhra, so if it works for them, im in.
i like jl said change my oil after every trip to the track. some times i will leave it in for my ride to the wednesday car show (maybe 10 miles round trip) then i will change it befor the next race.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Where do I find these "cut back" race plugs? What does that mean by the way? Are all TR6, 7, and 8 cut back?

Is there such a thing as 100 octane race fuel? To my knowledge, I think the race track only carries 104, but I may be wrong.

Is there anything wrong with RP 5W30?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Also, make sure the engine is hot when you drain the oil, that will make sure all the crap is in the oil when you drain it.

I'd seriously run nothing less then 114 octane with the 13.5 to 1 compression, that is the same compression my motor is, and it likes the 116 for sure.

I'd start with the #6 plug, but pull every one after the first run and make sure that they are nice and brown and no spotting. Mine was fine on the dyno, until I went to the track on a 90 degree day. I now just run the #8 race plug to be safe, and they look perfect all the time.

remember, running too hot a plug/too low octane will do damage, running too much octane/too cold a plug will not. Better safe then sorry. Plus, once you get over 13-1 compression, it takes alot less for something that is slightly inadequate to be a problem.

I's also run something thicker then 5-30 oil, I suspect the car will be consuming that like candy, but you'll find out quick enough.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

yes, the ngk vpower plugs are all that way. You want a 5177 (#7) or a 5178 (#8) plug. I can get them thru my local napa or advanced auto, both carry them.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

im with jl (my track doesnt have 114, so i was stuck with 112) but 112 to 114 for sure)

the only thing is, to much octain too cold plug meens down on power. start off safe, and bump it from there.

also like jl said, no way would i run 30 oil.
if im sure you have an upgraded pump correct?
if so, 20w 50 for sure, im not a rp guy, but im sure it would work

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Thicker than 5W30, as in 10W30, 10W40, etc.?

I found a place that's a lot closer than the track that has race fuel. I'll call them and see what octane they sell in race unleaded.

As far as the plugs, I still don't know what cut back means.

I have the Melling high volume performance pump.

I thought the lighter the oil, the more hp/easier on the valvetrain?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

the lighter the oil the more likly the crank is coming in contact with the bearings too. The clearnances are set to the loose side of factory, you will want to run a 10-40 oil at a minimum. I woudnt run synthetic either, I'd run regular dino oil, when you get some blowby which all race engines have it burns cleaner then the synthetic stuff does.

Again, the 114 is just what I have found. If you can readily get 116 I'd run that, if nothing else you probably can run a degree or 2 more timing and be fine with it.

The cut back plug, what that means is the ground strap is slightly short, so that the tip of the plug is visable and not covered by the ground strap completely like it is on alot of plugs.

If you have a tr6 and some regular type plug, look at them strait down with the ground strap facing up, you will see what it means.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Yes, he said that they're set at the factory tolerances, but on the looser side. I wanted to run a vacuum pump setup, but haven't decided yet. This will help with blowby.

I have yet to find TR7 or TR8.

ONEBADWS6

iTrader: (22)

I tryed a TR8 but it was to cold and kept fouling so I went back to the TR6. I also can Cam2 which is 110oct until I switched to a VP fuel. As for oil I only run German Castrol 0-30. Two seasons of 7500rpm and things look good, only the rings are shot.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

How come no one mentions TR7? Its either 6 or 8.

Also, what indications will I have to determine if 6, 7, or 8 works best?

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

i dont think you will need 7's or 8's. 6's should be fine.
i ran into fouling my plugs out with the 8's once this season,

6's are good plugs think about it.
people run heads cam, and light spray and make 550-600 rwhp and run tr6's
i ran tr6's in my 600 rwhp daily driven twin turbo set up.
the 6's with good gas and atleast a 40 weight oil is what i would say.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So how would I determine if the TR6s are not cold enough or if the 7s are too cold?

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

put 6's in. run it while logging or on the dyno to tune it in ect.

if it runs right you should be good.
do a pass at the track or street as long as its WOT for 8-10 seconds, shut the car right off, then pull some plugs be sure there is no detination on them, be sure the edges are still sharp (on the tip mainly) be sure it didnt round them off. if they look nice and even in color (they will never be perfect) and they are still sharp with all your timming in it, your good to go.
i did this with tr-6's 304* of timming 118 fuel and no issue.
i even ran my 6's with 30* with the 100 shot. it rounded the edge, so i knew i was close. so i went to the 7's and tuned it up a bit, then ended up with 8's with 100 shot.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So I have some of you saying TR6s, then some of you saying TR8s, and my builder saying TR7s. Maybe I should just buy a set of each. I guess there's no certain way to determine which one I'll need, so I may have to try each. I was hoping to get close within 1 to 2, not between 1 and 3.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you are going to run a 116 octane fuel, the 6;s will be fine. If you are going to run less then that, then I would start with a 8 and work up to a 7, I am sure a 6 with anything less then 112 would be risky on a hot day IMO.


I always reccommend stuff on the way safe side, I don't want to see anyone burn anything up that's easily avoidable. I just see no need taking a risk over 10 hp or whatever the safer setup will be.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

My engine builder recommended at LEAST 100 octane, but you're saying 116. That's a big difference. He also suggests the TR7. I wonder what fuel octane will be optimum for my setup, not will and will not work. I'm not doubting anyone here, I just want to be sure. I would have never thought to use 116, I figured that way way too much for my setup. Also keep in mind that I need it to be unleaded.