What spark plugs & motor oil for a 416 ci. 13:1 race engine?
10-04-2007, 06:42 AM
#81
Ok, so here's the run down of what's will be used. Let me know if anything needs to be changed.
NGK TR8/7
Valvoline VR1 racing oil (what weight/10W30?)
Change every track trip or 10 passes (check often to see how dirty it is)
Change spark plugs as needed (10 passes as well?)
VP racing fuel C14/12
No O2s or MAF
Speed density tune
Plug O2 holes
So when I put the car back together, there's no need to plumb the intake setup with the MAF? I might as well get it situated without the MAF?
NGK TR8/7
Valvoline VR1 racing oil (what weight/10W30?)
Change every track trip or 10 passes (check often to see how dirty it is)
Change spark plugs as needed (10 passes as well?)
VP racing fuel C14/12
No O2s or MAF
Speed density tune
Plug O2 holes
So when I put the car back together, there's no need to plumb the intake setup with the MAF? I might as well get it situated without the MAF?
10-04-2007, 09:18 AM
#83
So even though the car was tuned in the past weith a MAF, will it run/be ok to put the intake tract back together without it? Also, you said just put a cone filter at the end of the throttle body, what about the air lid and bellow?
What oil weight would you use?
What oil weight would you use?
10-04-2007, 10:04 AM
#84
oil weight, depends on the builder. I'm gonna guess a 10-40 would be a good place to start. If the car won't be started utnil it has a tune in it, then leave the maf out, and put a pipe in it's place and use your lid, of you could just put a filter on the TB, either will work. If you have some type of ram air setup that worked with the lid, then use the lid, it's all personal preferance... I don't think either is gonna run any better then the other to be honest.
10-04-2007, 12:02 PM
#86
Just don't run it any more then you have to, in case the tune is too far off form what the new motor will want. You don't want to wash the rings down or anything like that.
If you went to a bigger injector, then I would try NOT to start the car at all until you have a base tune loaded in the car. Again, this is something that you probably should be cautious with.
If you went to a bigger injector, then I would try NOT to start the car at all until you have a base tune loaded in the car. Again, this is something that you probably should be cautious with.
10-04-2007, 02:09 PM
#87
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sounds like you got it now.
as for speed dens, just leave the maf off, it will automaticly kick into speed dens, i wouildnt drive it like that, but you can fire the car.
also, keep your lid if you are using stock style intak, i lost big power getting rid of my lid going to a cone, ended up putting the lid back on.
also, dont forget your tranny, i change my filter once a year some times 2 times, and my fluid is changed about every 3-4 trips to the track.
good luck
as for speed dens, just leave the maf off, it will automaticly kick into speed dens, i wouildnt drive it like that, but you can fire the car.
also, keep your lid if you are using stock style intak, i lost big power getting rid of my lid going to a cone, ended up putting the lid back on.
also, dont forget your tranny, i change my filter once a year some times 2 times, and my fluid is changed about every 3-4 trips to the track.
good luck
10-04-2007, 02:42 PM
#88
Damn, what did I get myself into! I had planned on changing it, but seriously, every trap trip too? No way. Its a TH350 fully built. JW Ultrabell, deep pan, reverse manual valvebody, transbrake, etc.
I just priced the C12/C14, OMG! $7.50 (C12) & 9.50 (C14)!
I have a Beck sheet metal intake. Would I benefit from a cone or leave the lid?
I just priced the C12/C14, OMG! $7.50 (C12) & 9.50 (C14)!
I have a Beck sheet metal intake. Would I benefit from a cone or leave the lid?
10-04-2007, 06:51 PM
#89
9.50 a galoon, big deal. So that's 523 bucks for a 55 gallon drum, which will probably last you 1/2 a season. I guarintee that if you put say 8 gallons in teh car to get it to a 1/2 tank, after a track trip of say 5 to 8 runs you will still be over a 1/4, and will have to put abotu 4 gallons in. So figure 3 to 4 gallons a trip roughly, that's only about 35 bucks give or take a trip. You'll spend more then that towing the car to the track every time, unless you're a lucky one that lives right around the corner.
As for the tranny fluid, I change mine about every 25 to 30 runs, it comes otu just as red as when it goes in. I'm not using any fancy tranny fluid, I've never really heard anyone talk about running anything special.... I run a regular napa atf fluid, haven't had any problems so far.
You should probably plan to have the tranny gone thru once every other season. Mine's been in my car for a year now, after next season I will send it back to hughes to have it freshened up, unless I see a need before then.
As for the tranny fluid, I change mine about every 25 to 30 runs, it comes otu just as red as when it goes in. I'm not using any fancy tranny fluid, I've never really heard anyone talk about running anything special.... I run a regular napa atf fluid, haven't had any problems so far.
You should probably plan to have the tranny gone thru once every other season. Mine's been in my car for a year now, after next season I will send it back to hughes to have it freshened up, unless I see a need before then.
10-04-2007, 08:21 PM
#90
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Damn, what did I get myself into! I had planned on changing it, but seriously, every trap trip too? No way. Its a TH350 fully built. JW Ultrabell, deep pan, reverse manual valvebody, transbrake, etc.
I just priced the C12/C14, OMG! $7.50 (C12) & 9.50 (C14)!
I have a Beck sheet metal intake. Would I benefit from a cone or leave the lid?
I just priced the C12/C14, OMG! $7.50 (C12) & 9.50 (C14)!
I have a Beck sheet metal intake. Would I benefit from a cone or leave the lid?
10-05-2007, 04:27 PM
#92
Great! 
I found the Valvoline VR1 racing oil at all the local auto parts store, but NONE of them carry 10W30. 
They call carry 50W, 60W, and 20W50. What's the deal with that? None of them can order it either. The cheapest place I found it was Advanced Auto Parts for $2.98 a quart!
Do I need a multi-grade oil? If not, what would be the best to use from the choices above?
I found the Valvoline VR1 racing oil at all the local auto parts store, but NONE of them carry 10W30. They call carry 50W, 60W, and 20W50. What's the deal with that? None of them can order it either. The cheapest place I found it was Advanced Auto Parts for $2.98 a quart! Do I need a multi-grade oil? If not, what would be the best to use from the choices above?
10-05-2007, 04:45 PM
#94
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Great! I found the Valvoline VR1 racing oil at all the local auto parts store, but NONE of them carry 10W30. They call carry 50W, 60W, and 20W50. What's the deal with that? None of them can order it either. The cheapest place I found it was Advanced Auto Parts for $2.98 a quart!
Do I need a multi-grade oil? If not, what would be the best to use from the choices above?
I found the Valvoline VR1 racing oil at all the local auto parts store, but NONE of them carry 10W30. They call carry 50W, 60W, and 20W50. What's the deal with that? None of them can order it either. The cheapest place I found it was Advanced Auto Parts for $2.98 a quart! Do I need a multi-grade oil? If not, what would be the best to use from the choices above?
I use 20-50 Amsoil. I change it once a season, unless the heads come off for something. Like head gaskets today!
10-06-2007, 07:32 AM
#98
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/Se...CategoryID=228
You're right, I saw 3, but one is for motorcycles. So there's only 2. But they both list as synthetics.
You're right, I saw 3, but one is for motorcycles. So there's only 2. But they both list as synthetics.
10-06-2007, 11:37 AM
#99
again, I don't use synthetics, with the interval I change the oil I don't see a point to it.
I change the oil as often as I do because if something starts to go wrong, it could be a tell tale sign and you could catch a problem before it eats something up too badly... that being said do what you're comfortable with, but I'd rather change it every track trip and know what's going on in the motor then change it alot less and not catch something in it's beginning stages.
Just ask Erik what he wants you to run in it, and run that. That's what I did, I had Ken @ Eastside build my 402 and he told me to run castrol 20-50 and change it every trip, that's what I do.
I change the oil as often as I do because if something starts to go wrong, it could be a tell tale sign and you could catch a problem before it eats something up too badly... that being said do what you're comfortable with, but I'd rather change it every track trip and know what's going on in the motor then change it alot less and not catch something in it's beginning stages.
Just ask Erik what he wants you to run in it, and run that. That's what I did, I had Ken @ Eastside build my 402 and he told me to run castrol 20-50 and change it every trip, that's what I do.
10-06-2007, 04:47 PM
#100
FormerVendor
Jeramy,
The oil will hardly matter at all. 10W30 or so is what I would run down here in Texas or close. The diesel oil is a very good choice especially for a solid flat tappet but doesn't matter that much on a roller engine but it won't hurt anything but your converters. I have friends in high places and they really don't care about oil much except they run the thinner stuff to make a little more power if they think they have to. With your clearances you don't need thick or thin just normal weight oil in what ever floats your boat. All the brands the guys here are mentioning are great. When you are down to trying to find a few hp then maybe some fancy Royal Purple or Joe Gibbs oil is worth it.
The oil will hardly matter at all. 10W30 or so is what I would run down here in Texas or close. The diesel oil is a very good choice especially for a solid flat tappet but doesn't matter that much on a roller engine but it won't hurt anything but your converters. I have friends in high places and they really don't care about oil much except they run the thinner stuff to make a little more power if they think they have to. With your clearances you don't need thick or thin just normal weight oil in what ever floats your boat. All the brands the guys here are mentioning are great. When you are down to trying to find a few hp then maybe some fancy Royal Purple or Joe Gibbs oil is worth it.