racer7088

For continuous use or in really hot conditions the 20W50 stuff will work too but most people don't run stuff that heavy since it does cost a little power. I have also seen some wet sump engines make more with 20W50 so you never know! Probably windage or lifter related or something but they did make more.

1fstGM

iTrader: (13)

Thats a good point. I have been scanning throught this whole thread and saw nothing about the oil ran in a dry sump. What would the oil difference be between a dry or wet sump? For break in and then after? I just ordered my Aviad oil pump and dry sump kit. My motor has also just been refreshed.

racer7088

The diesel oil that these guys are saying to use has better additives for break in and is good on any engine. With a dry sump you can run a wider variety of oils since you can tune the system for pressure on the outside. The thinner oils are usually run with slightly tighter clearances and will make a little more power since the oil is easier to pump and the oil pump load drops a lot with it whetrher dry or wet sump. Neither system though wants tons of oil being thrown around. On some engine and pand the thicker oil seems to cause less windage but it alwasy depends. Reher Morrison and Grumpy Jenkins said that on certain small block pand of old the thicker oil would make more power and more oil pressure due to the fact that it would not cause as much of a tornado like whirlpool in the pan. I can hardly remember all that though! It's too late.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

No need to run a 20w50 or 50wt in this engine. Royal Purple 5w30 will be fine. If you want something better the Royal Purple XPR 5w30 is formulated for race fuel.

So you will know you can get XPR in a 0w10, 5w20, 5w30, 10w40 and 20w50
And if you want you can even get a 0w5 that NHRA Pro Stock cars and bikes use.

But IMO your best off with the XPR 5w30 and if you want to make a little more power the XPR 5w20 is the ticket.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

that thin oil must get comsumed like a ****.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I don't think I can handle changing oil every 10 passes with oil that costs $10-$12 a quart. If I'm going to change it that often, no need to have some expensive oil.

I'd prefer to use a race oil and the only ones I know of off hand is Royal Purple and Valvoline. Valvoline is readily available and MUCH cheaper.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

Recommended change interval for Royal Purple XPR 5w30 is 40 passes and 30 passes with the XPR 5w20.

I run the XPR 5w30 for 10,000 miles in my street cars with NO2 and my oil analysis look great.


There is no need to change the oil every 10 passes. You are wasting time and money.

DO some shopping or ask the right person and you will get a better deal than 12 buck a quart.

For your transmission fluid use a qaliity synthetic race specifif fluid, not only will it last 2 to 3 times longer it will also run cooler while providing the most constant ET's and MPH.

Again no need to change after 30 os 40 passes more like once a year.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

Not at all
That is if the emgine is set up right.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

The cheapest I've found it is $9.99 a quart. If I used it, then 30-40 passes is tolerable. That's still $70 for oil for 7 quarts.

I use Royal Purple max atf. Do you consider that a quality tranny fluid?

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

Yes but I think there Racig ATF is better for your application.

Keep looking and you will find it for a better price.

You might try asking around you never know who has it and for what price.

What part of Alvin are you in? I'm there almost every weekend

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

sorry to HIjack, but on a 346 cube engine... that usually is a 10:1 cr and holds 5.5s qts of 5w 30 oil...

is it smarter to run thicker oil if now my setup is a 10.75:1 cr car with a 231/234 cam with /600+ lift(Torquer 3), etc.. ? or based on my CR it doesnt matter... Im also gonna be rnning the TR6 plugs.. should be making 440rwhp.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

CR has nothing to do with.

Bearing clearance is what you are looking at.

If you did not change the internal set up then you don't change the viscosity.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

OH I think I Was also thinkng of what spark plus to run when I was thinking of the CR...


so... stock bottom end = stock 5w-30 for my application?

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

i would not run synthetic oil in any race tranny and i would NEVER run any oil for 10,000 miles!!!! even if the oil is ok, the **** in the motor is floating around, the filter is getting cloged, the magnet will only hold so much **** (and dont tell me your magnet is clean) to me its cheep insurance to do general maintnance often with good parts and fluids. keeps the cars running good, and consistant.

not sure why the pro's change there oil after everypass, but hmm, it must be some reason.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Thank you Noyzee, someone finally chimed in with some sense.


Leaving oil in for 10K, you're either one cheap ***, or one lazy ***, maybe just a dumb ***, not sure which one it is but it's got to be one of them.

Telling anyone to leave oil in their race engine they just spent 10+ grand on for any extended period of time, that's just stupid and I hope noone ever actually listens to that.

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

How about an *** that works for an oil company and works with race teams and engine buliders from SCCA to F1.

It's what I do for a living and have been doing for over 10 years.

You think I pulled that information out of my ***. PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hell I just left Newman Wachs Racing in Chicago. Spent a day and a half with them going over oil recommendations for there Atlantic and CART cars.

Do you think they would pay to have some dumb *** that knows nothing about lubrication fly up there

2redgmc

iTrader: (1)

It's called oil analysis

How about a race specific synthetic transmission fluid.

And the only Pro changing after every run are the fuel cars.

Pro stock changes after 4 passes on a 0w5 oil.

Stock, Super Stock change every 20 to 30 or when they need to run a lighter oil to go fast. Them most of them save what they took out and put it back in.


IMO it's cheeper insurance to run better quality fluids then cheep stuff you have to change all the time.

Noyzee

iTrader: (37)

not me, i run a good oil, and change it all the time. its also good to see whats on your drain plug. just the other day we did a change in a friends car running perfect and found a nice little chunk in it. turned out the valve spring was eating itself. so if we left that oil in for 30 more pass's we never would have seen that and god knows what would have happend.
oil may last a long time ect, but i still recomend changing it as frequent as possable.

its like plugs. imo, any "race" car should at the least pull plugs after ever few passes just to be sure whats going on. even with air fuel in my car, i still pull plugs after just about every pass.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

How many times do I need to have the Rotella 15W40 in the car before swapping over to the Valvoline VR1 20W50?

1 change, 2 changes, etc.?

If the Moroso pan says holds 6 quarts, then figure 1 for the filter (roughly), would I start out with 7 and add from there?

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

iI say throw in some tr 6's, along with some good unleded 112. Do some light road tesing (Get it to WOT). If you feel you need more fuel, then go with some better gas. Or change the plugs out
But dont go changing 6 different things at once. You'll never know what you did right...