Well, before anyone says, "Don't do that cause it's not how I would" please hear me out. I've been wanting to make an LS2 spin to 8K RPM's, and I somewhat know where to start, but I would like more help. The overall set up will eventually be a full circuit car (06 GTO) with hopefully, an LS2 that'll spin to 8K with a twinscrew supercharger to help out with the low end and still be able to put air into the top end. Granted, this will be a several year project, and much research to come, I feel it can be done.

My goal is simply to not only put an M3 to shame turning, but decimate any turbo'd M3 that would be there spinning nearly as high as they. Call me crazy, and stupid, but I want to do this. My questions are these: What kind of Cam could make breathing still allowable at 8K (unlike the stocker) while still complimenting the supercharger? Who makes rods/connectors/pistons/internals basically and where can I find them? I don't want to have a car that is going to have a very hard time idling, which I know is going to be a challenge with that high of spinning capabilities. I'm trying to stay away from MagnaChargers due to pricing/lack of power that the 112 makes, and I don't feel like putting more money out for a 122 model either, which leads me to go with a 2.3L twinscrew.

Please don't tell me to search either, I have, and from what I've read, the LS2 doesn't seem to get much high-spinning action. I plan on keeping the stock bore/stroke, but I don't know what I'm going to do about compression. Whether to back it down to 10.0:1 or to drop it to 9.5:1.

Any and all input is appreciated, and thank you guys much!

 

you can. the major constraint is your valve train, not the bottom end. gimme a minute and ill find the calculations for piston velocity, and thats what you need to know.

EDIT: (rpm x stroke)/6= piston velocity in ft/ min.

stock, 4600 ft/min it considered the limit

race (meaning forged parts, good rod bolts, etc), the limit is 5500 ft/min.

so stock bits, 7620rpm is the limit

race, 9110 rpm is the limit.

so 8k rpm is doable

 

Solid roller if its allowed in your class. If not then you better be ready to spend ALOT of money on lightweight valves. Try looking around at some of Katech's stuff their GXP-R is impressive to say the least.

 

solid roller and good springs and call it a day. i shift mine at 7800-8000 its drags so it isnt sitting there, but im also running alot more cam then you will be 730+

if you cant go solid, good luck, you will need lots of light weight parts and the best springs money can buy.

 

8K

 

How long will that last under continuous stress like circuit/road courses? And how long will a motor like that last under DD?

 

You WILL need a Drysump, No way that the direct drive oil pump and wet sump pan is going to be able to take the sustained RPM. By design the LS1 has an oil draining problem, the oil takes a while to drain back to the pan. it' not uncommon to starve the pump at high rpms at the end of 1/4 mile run in a straight line, now add some turns in there and you are asking for real trouble.

RPM kills parts, honestly you are going about the build the wrong way, there is no need to spin a motor to 8k in a road race setup.

Also yo uwill have problems with keeping the blower cool around a circuit not to mention that you will have to pulley the blower way up not to over spin it.

For 8k rpm you will need either a good solid roller setup or a Carefully selected setup with Ti valves, Hydraulic Rollers and matched Springs.

 

That happened to LTLHOMER in his old car. Stock oiling system couldn't keep up at 7900-8200ish RPMs and let loose.

 

I am not sure that this will help, but this person almost spun his 417ci to 10g

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/794352-925-7-9600rpm-flywheel-hp-na.html

 

Thats drag motor with aluminum rods and some descent parts, by no means a reliable DD or Circuit motor....

And if i remember correctly the car puked a rod at the Shoot out after only a few passes

 

I'm looking at the same thing. I want to go solid 416. Twin76 why dont you want to spin to 8k in a 416? ARent they short rods? How do I convert to a dry sump as well? I'm going for a reliable hi rev setup. My current combo is very nice and revs to 7k. I'm looking to 7800-8k with the 416. It will start as a hydra and then when I can purchase the AFR 225's I'll convert to solid. Going with my enhanced 205's for now though.
Thoughts?

 

i think the factory pcm's get weird at 8k rpms too...unless you're using an aftermarket

 

Dont forget belt slip. I agree alot with this guy. There is no need to spin a twin screw that high on a road coarse. I cant imagine what you intend to do about traction. You are talking 650+ rwhp coming out of a turn. Spin it high NA with plenty of compression or stick to 7K with the blower.