black_z

iTrader: (4)

Weight is the only explanation. The strength argument isn't really valid here, it isn't in 99% of street builds.

steve40

iTrader: (18)

it looks like i'm going with an iron block....found one for next to nothing...i know its heavier...but its just a street car for me...just wanted to see if there was a clear reason why not to go one way or the other.

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

youll be good with it, i have no problems with the added weight.

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

Iron block F T W. No clearancing necessary for a 4" stroke! And you can run the LS6 valley cover without modification too!

I picked up a dealer takeout for piston slap. Got the complete long block for $300. Just put in a tubular K with it and the weight is pretty much a wash.

-Geoff

p.s. What is up with the edit on F T W without spaces? It shows up like this --> ***

SILVERZZ28

iTrader: (3)

Just do a 7.0 iron block

'68maro

I like the LQ9>LS2. The LQ9 is a LOT cheaper, and it can hold more power. Plus, you gain a little extra cubes out of it...

Abdullah

iTrader: (2)

for L92 heads/L76 intake i would better go with L92 block or larger bore block.

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

The tubular K and A arms together might make up half the weight difference between the iron and aluminum.... But then you can run the same K and A arms with the Al. block and be even lighter!

The only time I would choose the iron is if the vehicle were a dedicated track car running 8s or faster. And then it would be an LSX, not a 4 bolter.

F T W is blanked out because it is overused and played the f**k out.

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

Extra cubes? They're identical dimensionally.

steve40

iTrader: (18)

whats so special about the ls6 valley cover?

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

it draws its vacuum for the pcv from the valley area where its less likely to suck oil through the pcv system.

njc.corp

correct-

408z28

iTrader: (44)

Yep....but you can bore the iron block .060 over if you wanted to. The aluminum you cant.

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

You can also buy an L92/LS3 block and get a 4.06 to start with if that's the bore you want

silver01z06

The iron block will be cheaper to buy and cheaper in the long run. The Aluminum blocks will be lighter and take extra work on install/wiring. When I was looking at doing a motor it was about 600-800 less to do an iron block. As far as strength of the block its not an issue imo.

fastvet

iTrader: (2)

If you decide to go forced induction or max out the spray, you would want to go with a iron block. lets say you have an iron block with 8.5:1 compression vs an aluminum block 8.5:1 compression. you would be able to put a 20lb. pulley on the iron block but only about 16 safely on the aluminum. Call a pro shop a find out the facts. thats my opinion.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

??? I have an Aluminum LS1,,i put the LS6 valley cover on and it was a direct bolt and go,,no hacking, chopping, etc.

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

yes but it's not the case with an ls2 block if he wanted to go that route.

JHL88

iron block takes better to heat than aluminum block

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

By heat... do you mean like if you tried to melt it with an acetylene torch? Yeah... you're probably right.