head and intake is all i need to choose
I know its your car and you're going to mod it the way you want. But I think you can build an iron block 370 with afr heads and a single turbo/truck manifold setup and make quite a bit more power than you set a goal on, plus have money left over for built rear end, transmission and a box of bandaids. It would be 100% stock reliable if you kept it reasonable and your mom could drive it. I love the crap out of cammed ls1's and how they sound, but I think I can make more power with a much more reliable valvetrain without losing anything noticeable in torque, for a lot less money, and last a lot longer. If you're seriously planning on going FI on this soon do it once and do it right. Many of the parts you'd use to build it n/a are trash in an FI motor (pistons, cams). So you're looking at multiple motor builds.
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Last edited by Drew04GTO; Jan 15, 2008 at 12:08 AM.
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To be honest-- i don't really know what advantages/disadvantages there are with locked and unlocked
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I know its your car and you're going to mod it the way you want. But I think you can build an iron block 370 with afr heads and a single turbo/truck manifold setup and make quite a bit more power than you set a goal on, plus have money left over for built rear end, transmission and a box of bandaids. It would be 100% stock reliable if you kept it reasonable and your mom could drive it. I love the crap out of cammed ls1's and how they sound, but I think I can make more power with a much more reliable valvetrain without losing anything noticeable in torque, for a lot less money, and last a lot longer. If you're seriously planning on going FI on this soon do it once and do it right. Many of the parts you'd use to build it n/a are trash in an FI motor (pistons, cams). So you're looking at multiple motor builds.
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What power on pump gas would I be lookng at and be reliable?
Thanks.
Last edited by needadvice; Jan 15, 2008 at 10:37 AM.
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well assuming I went with that single turbo 370ci that "Drew04GTO" mentioned, then what would be a good stall for highway runs?
Last edited by needadvice; Jan 15, 2008 at 12:22 PM.
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I know its your car and you're going to mod it the way you want. But I think you can build an iron block 370 with afr heads and a single turbo/truck manifold setup and make quite a bit more power than you set a goal on, plus have money left over for built rear end, transmission and a box of bandaids. It would be 100% stock reliable if you kept it reasonable and your mom could drive it. I love the crap out of cammed ls1's and how they sound, but I think I can make more power with a much more reliable valvetrain without losing anything noticeable in torque, for a lot less money, and last a lot longer. If you're seriously planning on going FI on this soon do it once and do it right. Many of the parts you'd use to build it n/a are trash in an FI motor (pistons, cams). So you're looking at multiple motor builds.
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3,200 stall with an intake that is not reaching it's effectiveness until after 6,000 rpm is not going to help you after each shift point, especially in the 60 ft. You will either go up in smoke or run like **** at launch.
Kinda like running a tunnel ram with twin carbs on a street engine.....looks great but isn't very effective. Sounds like you are completely attached to the sheetmetal intake no matter what.
Kinda like running a tunnel ram with twin carbs on a street engine.....looks great but isn't very effective. Sounds like you are completely attached to the sheetmetal intake no matter what.
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anyway, i'm liking the sound of going 370ci iron with a turbo kit and staying well under my budget. i'm open for anything. 700-800 RWHP would be great and still have a car that drives well in the city for daily stuff.
Bare 6.0L block ~$700
Diamond dish pistons ~$635
Compstar rods ~$600
ARP main and head studs ~$190
GM Cadillac lifters ~$290
Manley chromoly pushrods ~$17 ea.
Rollmaster billet heat treated timing chain set ~$115
Federal Mogul competition series bearings ~$160
AFR 205cc heads ~$2300
Head/cam gasket package ~$250
These parts from Thunder racing
Blower cam ~$390
TR ported melling oil pump ~$150
Home built turbo setup
Tial V60 wastegate ~$539
Tial blow off valve ~$250
Borg Warner S80 ~$1700
6.0L truck manifolds ~$200 refurbished
custom y-pipe with turbo flange and manifold flanges ~$400 at the most
Intercooler $~1500 for a good core
Random intercooler piping/connectors/clamps $800-1000
4" exhaust from turbo back ~@800-1000
Fuel system is going to have to be something big with a return line plumbed in. As this list sits its right at about $12,500. However a lot of money can be saved in areas like cylinder heads. You don't NEED AFR heads to make good power on an LS1 with boost, it helps, but mostly is just listed to say that this might not have issues with pushing water.
You should PM "BeardWS6", He has a beck sheet metal on a 408 that is somewhat a street car. Ask him how he likes it. He had a FAST on it so he would be able to give you good insight.
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Would get these parts from SD.
Bare 6.0L block ~$700
Diamond dish pistons ~$635
Compstar rods ~$600
ARP main and head studs ~$190
GM Cadillac lifters ~$290
Manley chromoly pushrods ~$17 ea.
Rollmaster billet heat treated timing chain set ~$115
Federal Mogul competition series bearings ~$160
AFR 205cc heads ~$2300
Head/cam gasket package ~$250
These parts from Thunder racing
Blower cam ~$390
TR ported melling oil pump ~$150
Home built turbo setup
Tial V60 wastegate ~$539
Tial blow off valve ~$250
Borg Warner S80 ~$1700
6.0L truck manifolds ~$200 refurbished
custom y-pipe with turbo flange and manifold flanges ~$400 at the most
Intercooler $~1500 for a good core
Random intercooler piping/connectors/clamps $800-1000
4" exhaust from turbo back ~@800-1000
Fuel system is going to have to be something big with a return line plumbed in. As this list sits its right at about $12,500. However a lot of money can be saved in areas like cylinder heads. You don't NEED AFR heads to make good power on an LS1 with boost, it helps, but mostly is just listed to say that this might not have issues with pushing water.
Bare 6.0L block ~$700
Diamond dish pistons ~$635
Compstar rods ~$600
ARP main and head studs ~$190
GM Cadillac lifters ~$290
Manley chromoly pushrods ~$17 ea.
Rollmaster billet heat treated timing chain set ~$115
Federal Mogul competition series bearings ~$160
AFR 205cc heads ~$2300
Head/cam gasket package ~$250
These parts from Thunder racing
Blower cam ~$390
TR ported melling oil pump ~$150
Home built turbo setup
Tial V60 wastegate ~$539
Tial blow off valve ~$250
Borg Warner S80 ~$1700
6.0L truck manifolds ~$200 refurbished
custom y-pipe with turbo flange and manifold flanges ~$400 at the most
Intercooler $~1500 for a good core
Random intercooler piping/connectors/clamps $800-1000
4" exhaust from turbo back ~@800-1000
Fuel system is going to have to be something big with a return line plumbed in. As this list sits its right at about $12,500. However a lot of money can be saved in areas like cylinder heads. You don't NEED AFR heads to make good power on an LS1 with boost, it helps, but mostly is just listed to say that this might not have issues with pushing water.
I think he loved it. His 4l60e hated the rpms where it wanted to really shine though...
L92/L76 seems like it would be awsome for boost although I can't say much on what it would require as far as a cam is concerned. I also can't vouch for cylinder head deck thickness. I know at higher boost/cylinder pressures LS1's will push water because stock head decks tend to flap in the wind. On the piping, if you go the way I listed you'd have to fabricate it yourself, or take it to a local shop and have them do it. If you are local to Dallas I'd be glad to help you out with this.
Last edited by Drew04GTO; Jan 15, 2008 at 11:53 PM. Reason: Forgot stuff about piping.
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L92/L76 seems like it would be awsome for boost although I can't say much on what it would require as far as a cam is concerned. I also can't vouch for cylinder head deck thickness. I know at higher boost/cylinder pressures LS1's will push water because stock head decks tend to flap in the wind. On the piping, if you go the way I listed you'd have to fabricate it yourself, or take it to a local shop and have them do it. If you are local to Dallas I'd be glad to help you out with this.
But what intake would be good with the AFR's?
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