corvette_uae1

well i just tuned my car and finished it

my main pully went out a little bit and the belt was messed up and totally damaged .


ok on the hp tuner it shows that stock rpm limit is 6600 rpm

i only change it to 6800 rpm why did the pully went out !!??

the tuner says its from the high rpm 6800 !! but i dont think adding 200 rpm is a bg deall and risky .

so what do u think guys?? is it from the high rpm or i need to modify or do some job with my main pully ??? by the way i did change it once the main pully cuz the internal rubber bearing was damaged and since it doesnt sold seperately i did by a new pully .

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

i think you should stop spending money on the car and spend it on some english classes...


who installed the last pulley when you put the new one on? Crank pulleys are pretty notorious for coming off if not torqued down correctly. The main bolt is torque to yield and if you dont stretch it it will loosen out over time. i believe the correct procedure is :

use your old bolt to pull the new pulley onto the crank, tighten to 240 Ft/lbs

remove old bolt, install new bolt and torque to 90 Ft/lb

after torqued to 90 Ft/lb then give the bolt and ADDITIONAL 180 degree turn to stretch the bolt.




btw, did you buy a brand new pulley or a used one from somebody. when i pulled the stocker off my motor when installing the new one i cracked my stocker, so i bought a used pulley off a member on here.


WORST mistake i have ever made with this car. the pulley was worn out inside the hub and wasnt a tight enough fit on the crank snout. i had that pulley come out 5 times on me!!!! took out the steering rack the first time as i didnt pay attention and it rubbed a hole in the rack.


Finally bought an SLP underdrive and was shocked to see how much tighter the pulley fit on the crank.


oh well, lesson learned.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

37 ft lbs then 140 degrees.
right outta ALLDATA, which is basically a photo copied factory service manual.
Make sure you lock tight it.

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

does it say specifically to lock tight it?? i have always heard NOT to locktite it.

corvette_uae1

thanks for the help and yes i did buy a new one .

and yeah about stop spending money on my car and spend more on eng. lessons well its my money and even if i buyed a new car and burn its still with my own money .

and by the way read my nick name and ull know why my engl. isnt perfect like u

corvette_uae1

thanks bro for the help

what do u mean by lock tight!!??

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

No it doesnt, but I lock tite ALL of them. Good insurance. And I dont see what it will hurt.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

Dont sweat it.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

Its a liquid that you put on the threads, an when it dries it keeps stuff from coming apart. Its made by PERMATEX. Its red high strength locktite.

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

You can also use Blue (semi permanent) or Green (for rotating) parts. Also don't use the piece of crap stock crank bolts, use an ARP and not worry about it.

I lost a pulley at half track and it was a baaaaaaadddddd experience

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

sorry i am just critical of people when they cant use good english skills, nor did i see your nickname. so my apologies. if your of foreign decent and your at least trying to learn the language then my hats off to you! we need more people like you in this country


i was always told by my GM tech not to lock tight because it can change torque values and doesnt act like a "lubricant". not to mention if you ever have to replace the crank bolt again its really quite a bugger to get all the old lock tight out of there.


best of luck to ya!