ls3/ls2/iron 6.0, blocks in a Fbody
ls3/ls2/iron 6.0, blocks in a Fbody I have a 2000 z28 and am panning a build.. First i thought i would go with a ls2 then i relized that ill max out the D1sc and maybe ill get a f1a someday. After a little reading i seen that 900hp is a SAFE max for an ls2. Then i was thinking of a iron 6.0l block, Then ls3 blocks... I have so many questions. I used the search and got a little information.
What is needed to drop in a ls3 into a fbody?
What is needed to drop in a ls2/ironblock into a f body...
what parts from my ls1 will go on a ls3?
what parts from my ls1 will go on my ls2/iron?
what block would be better to use for a f1a build up?
which block would be the easiest to build up?
anyone have any links that would help... ill be buildig the motor myself and getting the parts myself. I would like to have a plan that i understand.. Thanks guys.
What is needed to drop in a ls3 into a fbody?
What is needed to drop in a ls2/ironblock into a f body...
what parts from my ls1 will go on a ls3?
what parts from my ls1 will go on my ls2/iron?
what block would be better to use for a f1a build up?
which block would be the easiest to build up?
anyone have any links that would help... ill be buildig the motor myself and getting the parts myself. I would like to have a plan that i understand.. Thanks guys.
ive done a couple 6.0L iron blocks in f-body's. you use the long block and or your heads if you have better than stock heads, and build up the long block with everything off the ls1, only issue is you are missing two alternator bolt holes for front acc, you have a place do drill and tap for one of them, the other is just not used. everything else bolts right up. easy install
FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: Hell AFB
The 6.0L iron is one of the easiest blocks to do. Stock everything bolts onto it, tap the acc hole and your done.
If you go ls2, you need new top cover,new front cover, special timing chain, tap for KR sensors, new wiring adapters. But you save a decent amount of weight.
The best bang for the buck is a 6.0L iron block, stock everything bolts onto it and they are available used or new.
If you go ls2, you need new top cover,new front cover, special timing chain, tap for KR sensors, new wiring adapters. But you save a decent amount of weight.
The best bang for the buck is a 6.0L iron block, stock everything bolts onto it and they are available used or new.
The 6.0L iron is one of the easiest blocks to do. Stock everything bolts onto it, tap the acc hole and your done.
If you go ls2, you need new top cover,new front cover, special timing chain, tap for KR sensors, new wiring adapters. But you save a decent amount of weight.
The best bang for the buck is a 6.0L iron block, stock everything bolts onto it and they are available used or new.
If you go ls2, you need new top cover,new front cover, special timing chain, tap for KR sensors, new wiring adapters. But you save a decent amount of weight.
The best bang for the buck is a 6.0L iron block, stock everything bolts onto it and they are available used or new.
how much power can the iron 6l handle?
thanks jake good info.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: unknown
This is a great thread I have been looking into the LS2/LQ4 Iron 6.0L i hope both of us can get the answers we want. What got me excited was this vid on youtube.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=O9qt0pr2kE0
~The iron block changes the sound and its sounds more like a big block motor or is a 6.0L considered a big block?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=O9qt0pr2kE0
~The iron block changes the sound and its sounds more like a big block motor or is a 6.0L considered a big block?
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Verdad Gallardo FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: Hell AFB
They can handle far more then anyone can lay down on the street. I believe w2w set the fastest ls1 with a iron block. The ohio boys are running 7s with modified ls2 blocks!
Keep in mind, these are WAY past any amount of hp that is even thinkable for the street, 1500+hp.
Keep in mind, these are WAY past any amount of hp that is even thinkable for the street, 1500+hp.
lq4 if you want a cheap block and setup. go ls2 if youve got the cash for aluminum and the extra stuff to convert. they will both basically hold the same power. or if youve got some serious cash you could go with l92 or lsx.
This is a great thread I have been looking into the LS2/LQ4 Iron 6.0L i hope both of us can get the answers we want. What got me excited was this vid on youtube.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=O9qt0pr2kE0
~The iron block changes the sound and its sounds more like a big block motor or is a 6.0L considered a big block?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=O9qt0pr2kE0
~The iron block changes the sound and its sounds more like a big block motor or is a 6.0L considered a big block?
The size of the motor doesn't determine if it is a small or big block, the block itself does, there are motors that have gone over 500 CID that are small blocks.
So what else is needed to make a ls2 fit in a fbody? anyone have a list or a link to a list?
and a ls2 can handle a street setup with say 800-1000 hp? I hear of the cylnder wall warping on a alum block ? (something like that) and a link to mike brown?
and a ls2 can handle a street setup with say 800-1000 hp? I hear of the cylnder wall warping on a alum block ? (something like that) and a link to mike brown?
anyone know whats the price difference in builing a ls2 over a iron. Is it like 500 bucks or a 1000 bucks or more? And would 92 lbs make a difference at 800-1000 hp?
you can find iron blocks for around $400 average. aluminum are around $900 plus the little extra things. ive got an iron block 6.0 in my z28 and it doesnt seem to be hurting it. i think its 70lbs more than the ls1.
ok i made a list of Pros and Cons for each block...
6.0l iron
Pros
Can be rebuilt/takent apart many times ( i hate stripping bolt holes)
Easy to install in a fbody ( one hole needs to be drilled)
Very strong block
ALL parts match up
Cheaper
CONS
Shipping cost?
Weight
LS2
PROS
Light weight 92lbs lighter then the iron block
Most parts match up
strong
CONS
Not Cheap
Few little parts needed to put into a fbody (Front cover,special timing chain, valley cover, cam harness extension, knock sensor harness extension)
Im leaning twords the iron block. the weight wont matter if im making a ton of power safely
ideas?
6.0l iron
Pros
Can be rebuilt/takent apart many times ( i hate stripping bolt holes)
Easy to install in a fbody ( one hole needs to be drilled)
Very strong block
ALL parts match up
Cheaper
CONS
Shipping cost?
Weight
LS2
PROS
Light weight 92lbs lighter then the iron block
Most parts match up
strong
CONS
Not Cheap
Few little parts needed to put into a fbody (Front cover,special timing chain, valley cover, cam harness extension, knock sensor harness extension)
Im leaning twords the iron block. the weight wont matter if im making a ton of power safely
ideas?
I decided to go ls2 for weight. After you start adding it up, it becomes an issue. Stress on the drivetrain and suspension, fuel mileage goes down, slows the car down. For a lot of people it's not noticable but when trying to go fast safety equipment adds up. If it's a toy and nothing more where weight isn't a concern, go iron.
Marty
Marty
I decided to go ls2 for weight. After you start adding it up, it becomes an issue. Stress on the drivetrain and suspension, fuel mileage goes down, slows the car down. For a lot of people it's not noticable but when trying to go fast safety equipment adds up. If it's a toy and nothing more where weight isn't a concern, go iron.
Marty
Marty