what oil to break in engine
03-31-2008, 12:33 PM
#21
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Rotella was reformulated last year. The bottle has it listed as a tri something feature. It to has been depleted of it's previous additive package.
I've been using Rotella T for years on roller and non-roller applications - it's always worked flawlessly. Rotella T is designed for Diesel engines and it's manufactured without the detergents of traditional gasoline-engine oils. Unlike traditional oils that change mixture compositions to stay cost-effective, Shell's Rotella hasnt had a mixture change since 1988! Kind of makes you wonder how its quality has remained the same and cheap, while other oils quality decreases, yet their price goes up. Hmmmm. I'm sure it has something to do with the cost of refinement, but still...
The quality of your engine begins and ends with the shop (or person) building it. If your specs are calibrated correctly, the break-in on a roller motor should go very smoothly. If not, it really doesn't matter what oil you put into it.
The quality of your engine begins and ends with the shop (or person) building it. If your specs are calibrated correctly, the break-in on a roller motor should go very smoothly. If not, it really doesn't matter what oil you put into it.
03-31-2008, 01:31 PM
#22
Danny, I'll e-mail you our break-in instructions in case you didn't get them with the short-block. You do NOT want to use Rotella anymore for break-in, because it does NOT have the higher levels of zinc/phospates like it used to. Valvoline Racing Oil or Joe Gibbs Racing Oils are all we recommend now, along with the GM EOS.
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03-31-2008, 01:56 PM
#24
Danny, I'll e-mail you our break-in instructions in case you didn't get them with the short-block. You do NOT want to use Rotella anymore for break-in, because it does NOT have the higher levels of zinc/phospates like it used to. Valvoline Racing Oil or Joe Gibbs Racing Oils are all we recommend now, along with the GM EOS.
03-31-2008, 02:39 PM
#26
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03-31-2008, 04:56 PM
#31
I use Brad Penn 30wt break-in oil in all our engines on the dyno - it has so much zinc, manganese and sulfated ash, it doesn't need any additives even for flat tappet cam break-in. After about 8-10 full throttle pulls on the engine dyno, I switch to whatever oil will be run from then on..... usually Red Line racing synthetic (10, 20 or 30wt., depending on application). This has proven to work very well in our engines and has seated piston rings better than ever. (this was NOT a gapless ring design btw)
03-31-2008, 06:04 PM
#32
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There is no change to the way we gap the rings for this break-in procedure....more like a very specific surface finish in the cylinder bores. We have a finish requirement given to us by the ring manufacturer (Ra, Rk, Rpk, Rvk, Rz, etc.) and we determine honing procedure necessary to achieve it with our profilometer. This has drastically reduced the amount of 'debris' in the first change of oil on the dyno and also improved ring seating.
03-31-2008, 07:43 PM
#34
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now what would you guys recommend for the best break in procedure for a new stroker? i've heard beating the **** out of it to driving up a hill and letting it cost down a hill to wild stuff
03-31-2008, 09:09 PM
#35
Are these oils safe for cats?
My new motor will be done in a few weeks and I paln on doing a few break in pulls on an engine dyno before bolting it into the car. That will be the only time I have no cats on it. Will the zinc or phosphorus hurt the cats at all?
My new motor will be done in a few weeks and I paln on doing a few break in pulls on an engine dyno before bolting it into the car. That will be the only time I have no cats on it. Will the zinc or phosphorus hurt the cats at all?
